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Thread: Bad Axe saws worth it? Anyone try Winsor saws?

  1. #1
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    Bad Axe saws worth it? Anyone try Winsor saws?

    Im in the late stages of choosing a set of saws for my shop. Im switching to a more hand tool based approach and Im going to get a pair of 14" sash/carcase saws (rip and crosscut) and a dovetail saw. I've narrowed my choice down to either bad axe, winsor saw, or lie-nielsen. I'm confident the bad axe saws are great, I just hesitate because they are basically twice the price of my other options. I found winsor saws online, and they seem great, have a good price point, and offer some customization. I hesitate to order them because they seem to be a very small company and do not have any professional reviews yet. And, lastly lie-nielsen, which is the cheapest of the bunch (never thought Id say that) only offers a 14" saw in .032 plate which seems to be really thick compared to everyone else's .020 or .025 plate. The Scharwz says he's fond of thinner plates and I have to agree. I'd just rather spend around $450 instead of $700. I don't mind to shell out the coin for bad axe if they truly are worth it, but I'd rather save that extra money for another tool. Thoughts, ideas???

  2. #2
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    Sep 2007
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    Aaron,

    Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't show your location. You may live near another member who is willing to let you test drive their saws.

    In another thread you asked about how someone felt about their Winsor saw. The only comment he made about the saw was in his first post about how it seemed to track to the left. This is something that is not difficult to correct. Though it isn't fun the first time or two someone goes through the process.

    Not knowing the return policy of Winsor, my money would be going with a known entity like LN or Bad Axe. Of course, if Winsor has a "make the customer happy" policy, then they might be worth a look.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 01-03-2013 at 2:15 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    If money is an issue, buy the LN saws. 0.032 is pretty blunt for a 14" saw. Add set and it's pretty coarse. The disston saws around that size (12" or so), I think, mic around .024 or something like that, at least the ones I've checked.
    That Rug Really Tied the Room Together, Did it Not....

  4. #4
    I'll tell you, I have a LN dovetail that I really like, a bad axe CC sash saw and a set of 3 saws from Bontz Woodworking. They are all really great saws, but I keep reaching for the bontz saws. They seem to start and cut smoother than the others, and really fit my hand well. You can basically get a large tenon, a carcass and a Dovetail saw for the price of one badaxe. I like my badaxe, but the price is pretty steep. I don't have any experience with the Winsor saws...

    That's my .02.

  5. #5
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    Windsor saws are typical lower quality saws,as far as I know. Softer steel,too thick blades.

  6. #6
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    I like my Bad Axe 16" tenons. Great, great saws that just chew up wood like it's candy.

    Pricey? Yes. Made in USA and a small business guy, though. That's why I chose Bad Axe.

    Bah, I just noticed. . .

    Winsor (at least the dovetails) don't have the folded backs that the Bad Axe do. What the difference is, I'm not completely sure, but I remember reading that the folding was more rigid or something and when the saw plate got hot, it warped less.

    I could be very wrong, but hey. . .
    Last edited by Adam Cruea; 01-03-2013 at 2:59 PM.
    The Barefoot Woodworker.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Windsor saws are typical lower quality saws,as far as I know. Softer steel,too thick blades.
    You sure? Look like pretty nice saws

    Specifications:

    • Closed Handle—hand-shaped by our master craftsman and hand rubbed finished with a proprietary finish.
    • All made in the USA, in our Colorado saw shop
    • 13ppi, precision cut and hand set, sharpened for tenon ripping and individually tuned to perfection, however we offer custom setups like 11ppi rip, or 14ppi crosscut.
    • Solid brass spine, milled, slotted, not folded (.25" x .75")
    • Blade is 12", 14" or 16" x 3", 3.5", and 4" usable girth, .025" thick Spring Steel
    • Milled solid brass split nuts


    http://www.winsorsaw.com/tenonsaws/tenonsaws.htm

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Cruea View Post
    Winsor (at least the dovetails) don't have the folded backs that the Bad Axe do. What the difference is, I'm not completely sure, but I remember reading that the folding was more rigid or something and when the saw plate got hot, it warped less. I could be very wrong, but hey. . .
    IMHO there is no functional difference in slotted or folded backs.

  9. #9
    I googled Ron Bontz, but could not find a website. Any details on his saws?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Turner View Post
    I'll tell you, I have a LN dovetail that I really like, a bad axe CC sash saw and a set of 3 saws from Bontz Woodworking. They are all really great saws, but I keep reaching for the bontz saws. They seem to start and cut smoother than the others, and really fit my hand well. You can basically get a large tenon, a carcass and a Dovetail saw for the price of one badaxe. I like my badaxe, but the price is pretty steep. I don't have any experience with the Winsor saws...

    That's my .02.

  10. #10
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    I have a bad axe sash saw, as well as 2 old disston tennon saws. I reach for the bad axe first, every time. It is a great saw, and although I am not well off, I think it is worth while saving the extra money for one of Mark's offerings. I will always buy tools from small craftsmen if given the choice.
    I do not own any lie-Nielsen saws, but they would be my next choice.
    Paul

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Richards View Post
    IMHO there is no functional difference in slotted or folded backs.
    How does a user adjust saw plate straightness on a saw with a slotted back? It's pretty easy to adjust the spine on a folded back.

    I don't know if there's a need for users to pay extra for a folded back, but they aren't the same.
    That Rug Really Tied the Room Together, Did it Not....

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    How does a user adjust saw plate straightness on a saw with a slotted back? It's pretty easy to adjust the spine on a folded back.

    I don't know if there's a need for users to pay extra for a folded back, but they aren't the same.
    If you are enough of a muppet to get a saw into that situation its pretty doubtful that you will have the necessary motor skills to be able to straighten it successfully ...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Richards View Post
    If you are enough of a muppet to get a saw into that situation its pretty doubtful that you will have the necessary motor skills to be able to straighten it successfully ...
    I find this statement to be offensive to Muppets. I love the Muppets!!!
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  14. #14
    Ron is one of our very own, right here in the creek.

    ron.b@empowering.com
    I have a "half-back" saw that he made. It's my favorite for anything larger than tenons or dovetails.

  15. #15
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    The Windsor saws do look nice and reasonable prices for saw plates and split nuts. Thanks for the link, Sean. I hadn't heard of them.


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