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Thread: Bad Axe saws worth it? Anyone try Winsor saws?

  1. #61
    Sean, again at the front where I can see that I am joining two lines. That way I also know I am sawing the vertical accurately. Sawing from the back corner along the line is one way of keeping the crosscut straight, but it also means that I have to guess for vertical.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
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    185
    Mike, what are TFMM or TFWW saws?
    I do still maintain that set is for deeper cuts, not 1/2" dovetails though- the plate never gets deep enough for heat and binding. Set is for cross cutting, and ripping in wet hard and softwood, and deep cuts. You learn very quickly about set, and how to use and what saw to use, along with SHARP vs so-so sharp when cutting timber frame
    joinery by hand. If you want to know if your technique is good, and your equipment is good,try cutting a few mixed hardwood timber frames with pieces , some of which are 12 x 14-16" in cross section all with just a handsaw .1/2" dovetails in kiln dried white oak or maple should be a breeze with a proper saw.
    Peter

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
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    I start sawing at the front with a push saw, but not at nearly as an extreme angle as Derek - on some woods, that "uphill" sawing action works easier for me.

    I really like the Gramercy joinery saws as well - I can't comment on the handles or the hang, as mine originally came from kits that a fellow Creeker built and eventually sold to finance other saw purchases. I have the two carcase saws, however, and I find I reach for the rip carcase saw for most all of my dovetails, and really any cut that will fit under the plate. The extra length really speeds dovetails, as well.

    The thing I like most about these, I think, is the balance - it must be the folded backs over the slotted backs of other saws, like the Lie-Nielsen saws I tried at their tool event, or the Adria dovetail saw I also have - the blade just ends up being much lighter. Gives it a more nimble feeling, and somehow makes it feel a little easier to keep in control. I've been experimenting with a slightly more aggressive rake on the rip saw and my Adria dovetail saw. (I have no idea how they were originally filed, or if the filings I received them with were original) The shorter Adria dovetail saw is actually heavier in the blade than the Gramercy, and I believe with the handles that were made, the hang is similar, so with a more aggressive rake, I actually need to sort of lift away extra pressure. With the lighter blades of the Gramercy saw, I just sort of let the saw sit there. I don't need to relieve the pressure.
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,298
    Quote Originally Posted by peter gagliardi View Post
    Mike, what are TFMM or TFWW saws?

    I assume he's talking about the Gramercy saws made by Tools For Working Wood.
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
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    Ok , thanks Josh

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
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    Peter sorry for the abbreviations. I hate it when I don't know them too! Tools for Working Wood (TFWW, Gramercy) is just a long type for someone wearing cotton gloves. If you ever get the chance to get Dyshidrotic Exzema I recommend just taking a pass.

    Yes, set is very important. I have one saw I bought at auction that obviously was sanded down to the teeth, which I could not tell from the pictures. The saw sinks about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in wood and want move at all. I have a dozen or so old saws I have bought at auction over the last year or two, enough to see just how much difference set can make on a kerf and how the saw cuts. I had a problem starting cuts with my Gramercy saws when I first started using them. I still remind myself to reduce the pressure I am applying when using them.

    I have plans to make quite a few cabinet doors (from hardwood) and many long rip cuts. I have a pile of German Beech, Ash, and Hickory dried and humidity adjusted in my shop, waiting to be made into a bench and sawbenches. I broke down at the prospect of ripping/resawing all those boards. After much thought and posting here, I bought a Laguna LT14 SUV band saw with a 1 1/4" Resaw King blade and DriftMaster fence. Now I think I can loose the table saw and do all the "smaller" cuts by hand. I also restored a Miller Falls, Langdon 74C Miter box and saw. I will keep using my Festool saw for cutting plywood, MDF... Now if I can get my hands heeled I can start cutting wood instead of posting.

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