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Thread: new first band saw Grizzly disaster

  1. #1

    new first band saw Grizzly disaster

    Wondered if anyone has seen this before. Got my first band saw from Grizzly 2 weeks ago, G0555LX 14". It ran for 5 minutes total before the upper wheel bearing went out. They sent me a new set of bearings, shaft, shaft bracket. It lasted less then 5 minutes this time. I noticed that when you tighten the wheel shaft nut it pushes on the inner bearing race creating side load. Any side load on a roller bearing is bad I am sure. If I go more then finger tight it makes the wheel start to drag. If l leave it finger tight the nut come loose. It is not a self locking nut, nor caste nut, nothing to hold the nut tight except friction between inner race. I have not been around another band saw I don't know how that nut is held in place if not friction. It would have to have a sleeve between the outer and inner inside races in order to work correctly in my opinion. But it shows nothing like that in the parts break down. Grizzly customer service is very friendly but not sure how familiar they are with each and every machine. I hate to have this end up sending me a new machine, I have a lot of time invested putting this one together and setting up this one. I know there must not be wide spread problems with this, Grizzly acts like they have no idea what is happening and there is a ton of this exact machine out there.

    Thanks for reading

  2. #2
    It sounds like the upper wheel does not mate well to the bearings. Did you discuss options for an upper wheel replacement (along with another set of bearings)?
    -Brian

  3. #3
    I don't have any idea how to fix the issue you have in your bandsaw. I hope everything will be fine
    with your bandsaw and your business with Grizzly.

  4. #4
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    There are hundreds, if not thousands of folks on the forums that use and love that saw. It really sounds like something is missing from the assembly. Are all the parts present as shown in the exploded diagram of your manual? Even if they are, I would walk through the assembly with Griz tech support on the line. On the rare occasions I have needed tech support they have been top notch with the exception of the motor guys. They seem more forklift-fix than diagnostically oriented. Please keep us updated.
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  5. #5
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    Dennis
    Have you looked at your parts list, and checked it against your upper wheel assemble. Sound like you could be missing a part or two. Keep us posted on your progress. Tom

  6. #6
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    Check what others have said first, obviously, but just in case you weren't aware, there's no need to bear down on the nut... a light snugness is plenty. The nut should be reverse-threaded, so in operation the nut should be self-tightening.

    When I disassembled my Jet to make it lighter for transport, I put it back together and really snugged up the nut. A month of use and I started getting a nasty squeal from the upper bearing. My guess is I was too ham-fisted and friction eventually took its toll. I had to find some new bearings, pick up a bearing puller from Harbor Freight, and create a bearing press with some threaded rod, washers, and nut. Nothing complicated, but it sure slowed me down.
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  7. #7
    Parts list seems to be correct, went over it with Grizzly tech staff a few times also. I am a little worried since the un-tension handle was missing when I got it and one of the bolts that holds the uppper wheel shaft trunnion tight was laying in bottom of box. It was there because when they put the trunnion into the sliding housing they got the pivot pins in backward so that the trunnion bolts were only able to penetrate a few threads cause them to strip. They sent me a new trunion, bolts, lever, sliding housing and wheel bearings. The trunnion is a little different then the original, there is no roll pin hole to hold shaft into it. (they are sending another). These minor things dont bother me but I would like to know the reason for bearing life of a couple of minutes of both factory installed and the ones I installed. I am sure they will get it worked out, they are just baffled. I thought maybe someone else has seen this. If the new parts they are sending my don't work they said they will send a complete unit. So I can't complain. Thanks for the help. I have dealt with 4 different Grizzly techs so far, I am sure someone will get it figured out.

  8. #8
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    My first thought was there was a spacer missing between the bearings but none is shown in the parts break down. Just a snap ring. I am sure they will get you squared away even if it means a new saw.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronald Blue View Post
    My first thought was there was a spacer missing between the bearings but none is shown in the parts break down. Just a snap ring. I am sure they will get you squared away even if it means a new saw.
    Where are the snap rings? Inner, or outer races?
    My first thought was also that a spacer was missing. Deltas have them.

    If the snap rings are holding the outer races, then any nut torque on the bearings will push the inner races toward the inside of the wheels, thus wasting the bearings.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Zoucha View Post
    Parts list seems to be correct, went over it with Grizzly tech staff a few times also. I am a little worried since the un-tension handle was missing when I got it and one of the bolts that holds the uppper wheel shaft trunnion tight was laying in bottom of box. It was there because when they put the trunnion into the sliding housing they got the pivot pins in backward so that the trunnion bolts were only able to penetrate a few threads cause them to strip. They sent me a new trunion, bolts, lever, sliding housing and wheel bearings. The trunnion is a little different then the original, there is no roll pin hole to hold shaft into it. (they are sending another). These minor things dont bother me but I would like to know the reason for bearing life of a couple of minutes of both factory installed and the ones I installed. I am sure they will get it worked out, they are just baffled. I thought maybe someone else has seen this. If the new parts they are sending my don't work they said they will send a complete unit. So I can't complain. Thanks for the help. I have dealt with 4 different Grizzly techs so far, I am sure someone will get it figured out.
    So about the only original parts you will soon have on this saw is the frame! I say get a new saw. It's what they like to call on this forum, "A Lemon"! I suspect that top wheel is not right. Too wide in the hub so that the bearings over tighten. I had a bigger machine that had the worst wheels I have ever seen. Not even enough material to be able to machine them all around. Sent it back and asked for money back. So their quality control isn't perfect, ask for a new machine. You've ridden this dead horse too long already!

  11. #11
    Myk you are exactly right, the snap rings are on the outer race. Any pressure one inner race via the retaining nut wastes the bearing. Maybe it's as simple as it should have a locknut instead of a regular nut and I should just tighten enough to remove play and let locknut hold it in place. Grizzly cannot give me a torque setting to tighten this nut. But to me any tightness will ruin the bearing for a third time. Larry, the latest tech from Grizzly was to be investigating the problem and was to call me back but hasn't yet. T

  12. #12
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    Normally in a double bearing setup like this there would be a spacer that the inner race tightens against. As Myk says the side pressure ruins the bearing. A standard ball bearing doesn't withstand much side load pressure without damage.

  13. #13
    If it were me at Grizzly at this point I would want to see the saw. Sounds like you had identified some assembly screw ups that might be minor as you described it but might be indicative of a rotten assembly job at the factory.

    No telling where this stuff is made any longer nor who is making it nor who is supervising it. Can't even tell who is creating the work instructions now that the world has fallen in love with ODM's.

    In another thread I was asking about the guide shaft of a Rikon band saw. I eventually called Rikon and the tech support guy did not seem to understand that the diameter of that shaft had to be on one of the detail drawings for the saw. Yet he seemed entirely oblivious to the whole idea that Rikon HAD to have this information someplace.

    Both of these are good companies. It is getting to be a crazy world.

  14. #14
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    Why are you fooling with it? I am sure if you ask, Grizzly will replace it with a new saw. After all, that's what you paid for.

    Rick Potter

  15. #15
    Yes you folks are probably correct in that I need to get an entire saw. It was just that the whole be home when the truck came, unload, unpack, assemble, clean anti rust agent crap, set up blade, table etc. wasn't that fun that I want to do it again if a simple fix was there. I will let you know what happens. Thanks so much. Still bugs me though how they plan on keeping bearing tight with no support in between inner bearing races, I guess I will find out how if they send me a new machine. Right now they are sending me the same old stuff I have already tried, but they cant answer the question as to how tight to tighten the nut on the main upper shaft should be. Thanks again.

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