What is going on here? (DC wiring/switch)

[Ethan Melad]

Julie,

I think you're right - the green is going into T4 and the extra taped 2-wire is grounded. so does this mean that i should still be able to connect black and white for an "always-on" and use the switch on the starter? what would happen to the green (red) then? or does it mean that i can remove this whole on/off connection and the starter will be back to its original state? or, will i be forced to use an additional on/off switch?

again, im asking all this for my own knowledge - ill probably have it looked at regardless.

thanks for the help.

EDIT: Just looked again, and theres a little red jumper wire sitting unused in the bottom of the box! looks like ill just easily be able to remove the extra wires and put the jumper back in per the diagram - that would be going from L1>#13, right?

[Ethan Melad]

UPDATE:
by removing the added wires and replacing the jumper, i was able to get the DC to start. unfortunately, i now see why the additional on/off switch was added - theres something funky going on with the switch buttons on the starter and they get stuck or dont always work. also the motor has a pretty nasty squeal...

guess ill go out and get a simple 3-wire on/off.
does anyone know if these motors need lubrication or anything?

ethan

[Julie Moriarty]

So rather than replacing the starter the former owner jury rigged up some new wiring scheme?

Without actually being there and seeing the thing first hand I can't tell you exactly what to do. If I had this sitting in front of me I would trace out all the wiring and draw a schematic to see how this thing was formerly working. Then I'd take the info from the motor ID plate, the wiring diagram on the starter and any other wiring information there may be and figure out what's the right way to make the thing work.

Magnetic starters are usually required only on large motors. If you have a 120V 15A motor I don't see why you need a magnetic starter. Someone may have just used it in place of a simple On-Off switch. I installed 3-way and 4-way switches all around my shop to operate the DC that's installed in the corner. They are just standard toggle switches typically used for lighting control. But I can't tell you to simply remove the magnetic starter unless I know more about the motor.

In the first picture you posted it looks like the SO cord with the plug end runs behind the "Y" fitting then into the starter housing. The wiring from the motor goes directly into the same side of the starter housing as the SO cord with the plug end. If you remove the guts from the starter housing (cuz it sounds like the buttons or coil don't work properly) and just insert a standard switch (must be rated for the motor, both voltage and amperage), you should be good to go. But it would be easier to buy a 1900 box, single switch Garvin cover and the toggle switch and bypass the starter and its housing completely. You can reuse the take-all connectors from the starter housing.

If that works, you might want to look into a remote control to operate the DC. Rockler sells this one for about $80:

[Ethan Melad]

I still don't have a picture of the motor, but its a 2HP 10a 220v. it looks like new versions of this DC come with a paddle switch, and they're super cheap. I think it might be easiest to get a new basic switch and go from there. Thanks.

[Don Jarvie]

If the motor has a reset button you don't need a starter. A simple 20 amp switch will do it.

[Ethan Melad]

don, if the motor does not have a reset button do i need a starter? or would it just be safer to use a starter?