Wolverine grinding jig attachments

[Dick Holt]

I am new to turning. I will be ordering a new Woodcraft grinder soon. I will also get the Wolverine grinding jig . Are there any attachments I should get ? I will be turning pens to start, then "graduate" to spindles and small bowls. I only have a few Benjamin's Best chisels (3 piece pen turning set) to start with. Thanks for your help.

Dick

[Brian Kent]

This was recommended to me also:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...nding-jig.aspx

Get the first one, not the later model. I use it continually for my bowl and spindle gouges.

[John Keeton]

Brian's link appears to be a knock off of the original Vari-Grind jig, shown here - http://www.amazon.com/Oneway-Manufac.../dp/B000CSSIOK

They look identical, so your choice. Brian is correct in that most folks prefer the original version to the newer Vari-Grind 2.

[Scott Hackler]

Brian is correct that for a fingernail grind you will want the jig above. Keep in mind that if you are just doing pens right now, you don't need anything but a spindle gauge with a standard grind. That can be done WITHOUT the above jig. Now once you move past pens and into bowls, the spindle gouge (and it's grind) is dangerous. A standard spindle gouge has a flat tang (where it meets the handle) and the bowl gouge is a solid round tang. For work into bowls, there can be a lot of force against the tang and you dont' EVER want the tang to snap during the hollowing of a bowl (trust me, I know).

The only other thing I highly recommend is a diamond wheel dresser. You will need to "dress" the wheels before you ever touch the steel to it and then every so often to keep the surface flat and clean.

Have fun, be safe.

[Brian Kent]

John is right. I had intended to link to the original vari-grind jig.

I was very glad to receive advice like Scott's before I hurt myself. I had been using the spindle roughing gouge to rough out bowls. Since then I have been using the bowl gouge for bowls - inside and out.

[Rex Guinn]

I think the new ones are updated from the one shown. I took the spring off and changed the clamp screw to nylon so you don't have the spring sliding over your freshly sharpend edge.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

The new ones are updated. You can see the difference if you look at the Varigrind shown on the Craft Supply website (woodturnerscatalog.com) They finally got rid of the spring steel piece and replaced it with a nylon covered bearing that doesn't dull your edge as you withdraw the gouge. They also offer this piece as an upgrade if you've got one of the old ones. It's worth changing if you're still using the older version IMHO.

[Dick Holt]

Thanks for the help. You guys are the best!

Dick

[Jim Laumann]

Jeffery

Who might the "they" be in "They also offer...."? Oneway or Craft Supply or ???

Thanks

Jim

[Jeffrey J Smith]

[QUOTE=Jim Laumann;2049232]Jeffery

Who might the "they" be in "They also offer...."? Oneway or Craft Supply or ???

The upgrade is put out by OneWay - it's in their new catalog and on their website. Craft Supply is where I got it - they offered it at their booth during the Utah Symposium a couple of years ago.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I also received a Woodcraft flyer today that shows their 8" grinder is on sale again for $99, so jump on it now!

[Aric Krueger]

This is all you would need IMHO: - I think everything you see here is sold as a kit at woodcraft (except for the chisel and wooden base of course!)

Don't bother with the skew attachment; see the thread below.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...kew-Jig-needed

[Paul Saffold]

I'm new to this turning stuff too. What are the notches for on the Vari-Grind?
Thanks, Paul

[Bob Hamilton]

The notches are just a visual reference so you can repeat settings if you change it.

Bob

[Chip Sutherland]

I use the Vari-grind jig and I set my up once and locked the jig down so I don't use the various notches. Now I just vary the distance of the jig/tool from grinding wheels using the sliding arm. I match the tool's nose profile to the grinding wheel to where stone makes contact from the heel of the cutting edge to the tip. I have a light handy to see if there is any gaps between the tool edge and stone. Then I turn it on and follow the profile to sharpen. I learned this from Bill Grumbine in his first video. Otherwise, I would need a setup map to handle all the various geometries of angles, arm distances and gouge profile degrees.

Dick when you get to doing bowls....find a friend, join a club and/or take a class. You will enjoy it more with proper instruction....as well as being a safer turner.