Wolverine grinding jig attachments

[Aric Krueger]

The notches are just a visual reference so you can repeat settings if you change it.

Bob

If you change it:

The notches will change the way the side wings are ground on a bowl or spindle gouge. Ellsworth's jig has a set angle and length in the stem to reproduce his signature grind profile on a bowl gouge. (Assuming his directions are followed concerning distance and height of the jig's pivot point to the grinding wheel. With the vari-grind jig, this angle is adjustable. Changing this angle of presentation to the grinding wheel will change the angle of the side wings because the angle of the cone being swung through is different. By adjusting the length of the pivot point from the grinding wheel with the 'V' arm, the desired bevel angle at the nose of the gouge is maintained (assuming that height of pivot point and protrusion length of the gouge tip are constant). By changing the jig's stem angle and pivot point distance from the grinding wheel (all other things remaining constant), it is possible to produce two gouges with the same bevel angle at the nose, but differing in side wing profiles.

I hope I'm making sense!

[Dan Masshardt]

I just got a new woodcraft grinder from eBay for less than $75 shipped. There is a seller offering them recently. The one before went for close to $90.

[Paul Saffold]

Yes, that made sense. Thanks.

[Harry Robinette]

The notches on the very grind will adjust how much the angle of the side of the wing is. The further forward the arm goes the straighter the wing will be. And just the opposite the further back the arm is the more the wing is rolled in toward the flute. If you set the sliding long arm at say 7" from the wheel and just change the vari-grind arm you can change the wing angle. I set mine at 2 notches up from all the way forward,I use a 2 1/8"protrusion and 7" from the wheel.That gives me a 60* bowl grind with a wing angle that lets me shear scrap and cut very nicely.I only have to adjust to 6" from the wheel and that gives me a 45* bevel and a small wing on my spindle gouges.
Works for me.

[John Keeton]

Doug Thompson has a nice chart on his website that I have included below. I set my Vari-Grind to this setting, and never touch it. Seems to work for me, but you may differ on your needs. I do, however, extend the tool 2 inches - not 1.75" as Doug suggests.
Sharpening Thompson.jpg

[Jon Murphy]

If you change it:

The notches will change the way the side wings are ground on a bowl or spindle gouge. Ellsworth's jig has a set angle and length in the stem to reproduce his signature grind profile on a bowl gouge. (Assuming his directions are followed concerning distance and height of the jig's pivot point to the grinding wheel. With the vari-grind jig, this angle is adjustable. Changing this angle of presentation to the grinding wheel will change the angle of the side wings because the angle of the cone being swung through is different. By adjusting the length of the pivot point from the grinding wheel with the 'V' arm, the desired bevel angle at the nose of the gouge is maintained (assuming that height of pivot point and protrusion length of the gouge tip are constant). By changing the jig's stem angle and pivot point distance from the grinding wheel (all other things remaining constant), it is possible to produce two gouges with the same bevel angle at the nose, but differing in side wing profiles.

I hope I'm making sense!

A bit late with my response, I was going through back threads on the VG and Ellsworth. I've printed out your quote to put on the clipboard where I keep my notes for the VG leg angles and other factors for my various grinds - I've been using the VG, along with the Geiger Vertical Solution Plus 4 arm for several years (actually the old VS, then more recently the Plus 4 as Don Geiger was kind enough to sell me only the parts to make the modification to the Plus 4). For those unfamiliar with that product it is a Wolverine style arm and basket with the basket mounted on a vertical column that can be adjusted over about 5" to change the height of the pivot. The Plus 4 adds a 4 position peg in the basket that makes fixed variations in the distance of the pivot from the wheel.

Given all that experience (my gouges range from 25 dg. to 85 dg. tip bevels with various side bevels) why do I offer you my great thanks? Because I've been buffaloed by the geometry and have had to use a lot of trial and error (which way do I go to change what). Your phrase, the "angle of the cone being swung through" is perfect - I now have a picture of the geometry. I have been wracking my brain for years trying to get a picture of the transition from tip bevel to side grind into my head.

[Josh Bowman]

Dick,
Along with the Wolverine you might as an absolute option consider a diamond hone. I kind of did an impulse buy on this Trend brand (I don't feel the brand makes a difference BTW). My point is I very seldom now "jig up" my tools to grind them. I keep this thing close and just give the hollow ground edge a few strokes and I'm off again. So far it's worked well for me. IF you do get one, look for comfort in holding it, I have several others and they seem awkward to hold. Good luck and ask lots of questions, sharpening is a something I feel is somewhat personnel and you can easily buy several expensive systems before landing on the one you like. The Wolverine, I feel is a good choice, but there are others. I suggest getting into a good club and getting members to let you try theirs.

[Steve Peterson]

I just picked up a robo rest and really like it. It allows you to easily set the exact grinding angle for each tool. I already had the Oneway grinding jig, but don't think I will be using it much now that I have the robo rest.

There have been a few reports of the tool from digging in to the grinding wheel when using the long arm of the Oneway wolverine jig. The robo rest avoids this issue. There is a version that works with the wolverine and one that bolts directly to your workbench.

Steve

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Dick,
All good suggestions above!
Try to avoid setting your gouges in the long arm for sharpening, there is a real risk of getting too low and close to wheel centre where the tool crashes through the stone.
if resources are available buy a CBN wheel from DWay before spending your money on stone wheels, one 180 grit CBN is fantastic for real sharp edges, used with the Wolverine /varigrind jig and you are a winner.
Good luck with your turnings.
Peter F.

[Thom Sturgill]

You guys do realize that this is a 2 year old thread?

[Josh Bowman]

You guys do realize that this is a 2 year old thread?

Well that's embarrassing!

[John M. Smith]

Not until you mentioned it Thom. LOL