Observations on Euro style sliding saws

[Jim Becker]

I am SO building that jig the very next time I'm in the shop! Wow...what an incredible and versatile method!

[Al Bacon]

Just built one last night and it works great. I used non-slip tape on the face to hold even if I have trapped the piece on an angle. I have an Osborne miter gage and that is what was included with it so I figured why not. I trapped a piece to test it on an angle and it held perfectly. I really like his handle though.

Al

[Jordan Lane]

I'd love to see a picture of that Kevin i have the exact same saw

[Jery Madigan]

I have a Minimax with the 5.5' slider. The Fritz and Franz looks secure enough that I bet I could rip 5+ feet, flip the board and rip 5 more feet using the fence to set up spacing. 10+ ft of ripping capacity. This would probably only work if the cut on the right side of the blade is small so that almost all of the board is on the slider avoiding losing the 90 degree cut.

[David Kumm]

I have a Minimax with the 5.5' slider. The Fritz and Franz looks secure enough that I bet I could rip 5+ feet, flip the board and rip 5 more feet using the fence to set up spacing. 10+ ft of ripping capacity. This would probably only work if the cut on the right side of the blade is small so that almost all of the board is on the slider avoiding losing the 90 degree cut.

Depends on the table. Adjust it to .002 and it doesn't matter. Dave

[Kevin Nathanson]

My version on my K700s:

Overview of the parts:
photo-1.jpg

The 'wedge stick' detached from the velcro on the front jig: (Patience; all shall be explained in due time...)
photo-2.jpg

Front jig ready to work, held down with air clamp:
photo-3.jpg

Rear jig in position, but not yet secured with wedge stick: (Note the guide strip over the outer edge of the slide which aligns everything correctly)
photo-4.jpg

Wedge stick, which forces the rear jig to stay square to the slide, and locks it into place; no need for clamps to hold it:
photo-5.jpg

With the cork edging on the 'jaws' of the jig, even the angle/taper cuts stay in position; this makes it through the blade without moving at all:
angle-cut.jpg

Wish I could say that I thought of this, but that's not stopping me from using it. It works great, especially for making accurate 'to the mark' cuts, which was really difficult before. One thing to remember is that if you are keeping the offcut piece (the part to the right of the blade), you must allow for kerf thickness in your measurement.

BTW, before everyone asks, I stole the red handle off of a coping jig for a router table that I have never used.

K

[Jordan Lane]

thanks Kevin!!!!

[Jim Becker]

Kevin, I'm curious...why didn't you utilize the center channel on the wagon for the rear jig guide rail to slide in?

[Jordan Lane]

i agree Jim when the jig hits the wagon it wont be able to secure small pieces but its a cool jig none the less

[Kevin Nathanson]

Jim,

The channel on my saw has a pretty wonky profile to it that doesn't really work well for ensuring no movement. It has a "choke point" at the top that doesn't have very much meat to it, so when you cut something to drop into that slot, it wobbles and rattles.

I guess I could make something that tightens (like in t-track) but then I would have to slide it in from the end, which is ALSO difficult due to the black plastic grab piece on the end of the slide, as there is not much real estate around that to feed a clamp piece into the slide, and I would have to take off my air clamp every time as well.

Conversely, by using the outer edge I was able to use a wedge to hold the whole thing in place, and there is more support out there (although STILL not actually a "square" edge) to put the guide against.

Also, I'm not sure where the post went, but someone asked why I don't just use the rip fence for measuring, as opposed to allowing for the kerf width in my calcs, which is a great question. The answer is twofold. I usually do use the fence, but when the offcut gets closer than ~1" to the blade, my fence won't get any closer.

Of course, that's because I have a TigerStop electronic fence, and it is limited so that it doesn't go crashing into the blade guard if I fat finger an entry into its keypad.

I know, you all feel sorry for me now that you know I'm saddled with a fence that is repeatable to the thousandth of an inch and that I never have to walk around the saw to adjust. It's just one of many burdens I have to bear in life.

Really, I'll be fine.

;-)

K

[Jordan Lane]

I am so jealous ken

[Jordan Lane]

I mean Kev

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Kevin, somebody has to do it, I'm glad you are up to the task!

[Gregory Gurka]

What's up with that saw??? Bad Blade , Motor messed up -- No Power ?? That was painful to listen too. greg

[Mike Konobeck]

Following up on this thread, I had to make one of the jigs Kevin posted pictures of. I made some modifications. Added Incra T-Track Plus to each with stops. I bought the Woodpeckers flip stops but they are not good for this application and will have to get some different ones or make some better ones. The other thing I am going to add is a vertical piece of phenolic faced bb between the handle and blade. Just a little added safety. Tested it out and don't know how I got by without it. Have about $60 in materials and 3-4 hours time into it and I could have got by cheaper had I not been in such a hurry to get it done.

RipJig1.jpgRipJig2.jpgRipJig3.jpgRipJig4.jpg

Here is a video. Sorry for the quality. The mount was not very stable.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwS1...it?usp=sharing