The Stickley Dilema... Help on workbench

[Dev Emch]

Here is a good problem for everyone to chew on.

I am currently working out various options for building a new "show" bench. This is a work bench that will see some video time so its got to be keen.

The problem conendrum is with the timbers. One option for this bench which I dont think has ever been done before is to use the stickley Quadralinear post construction to build the heavy timbers. In this construction method, Q-SAW white oak is cut into four sections to form a major timber and then run through the shaper using a 45 degree lock mitre cutter. These are then glued together and the only joints visable are in the four corners. This method was first pioneered by Leopold Stickley using his own profile. Gustov actually used veneer to achieve this effect earlier. It allows one to place the fleck on all four sides instead of just two.

The problem is that the bench trestle base has a traditional thumb nail profile on the end. The four mitred end sections will then become visable through the end grain of the thumb nail and will be rather unpleasant.

One option I considered is to just use a section of thin veneer and just build up the outer layer of the thumb nail and give it a fleck pattern thus hiding the gross looking glue joints. But this is gluing long grain to semi long grain and end grain. Thus you have a weak joint on thin stock in a high traffic area with boots, tools, shop vacs, etc. which may delaminate the veneer and or chip it.

Anybody have any other ideas to resolve this? As I said, this is one idea that is currently being knocked about.

[Bill Simmeth]

I *think* I understand the issue. Could you not return miter your four sections before they are glued back together? With the lock miter joint, it would be very fussy work to be sure. But, if I'm visualizing this correctly, it would yield something of a radial or fan effect to the "thumbnail" which could be quite attractive.

In any regard, I'd agree with your hunch that in a shop environment, veneer is not a "robust" solution.

Bill Simmeth
Delaplane, VA

[Jim Becker]

You could use a square with QS on two faces and then veneer the other two with QS after you cut your profiles. Yes, the profile area will not have QS all around, but it would take a mighty keen eye to pick it out, IMHO.

[Jamie Buxton]

How 'bout making a plug or a cap for the end of the hollow post? You've probably seen post caps on the tops of Arts&Crafts bed posts. You can make it with flat grain or end grain, or even with some other wood so it looks more like deliberate decoration than an attempt at hiding something. Or you could even make it from copper, which was a common decorative material in A&C furniture.

[Richard Wolf]

I think instead of a thin veneer I might try to band saw a 1/4 inch thick precurved cap piece for the end of the trestle base, buy cutting it out of a larger blocks you can avoid end grain and have enough material to glue on so foot traffic is not a problem.

Richard

[Tim Sproul]

Make a solid leg using rift sawn timber. It may not quite have the ray and fleck of quartersawn but will be difficult to notice.

[Michael Perata]

Here is a good problem for everyone to chew on.

Dev

I think you are trying to gild a lily here. A workbench is a very utilitarian item and if crafted in a "Stickley (read furniture)" manner would not be usuable - it would be "for video"

Find the best straight grained timbers you can and show off the timbers - and the workmanship used to craft the timbers into a workbench, when you are talking about the workbench.

When you are making a video, your audience should look right past the workbench and not be "conundrum-ed" by you chopping dovetails on a piece of furniture.

[Nick Mitchell]

I'm going to agree with Michael.

The beauty of a workbench is in its' functionality and strength, not in its' "prettiness".
Next you'll be fuming the oak

However, if you're set on this design; do it right! Don't cheat with veneers or 2 sides quartered.

[Dev Emch]

Hmmmmmm.......

Some really good suggestions.

Bill, Michael and Nick....

Bill suggested that it would yield a fan like effect and that would be rather attractive. And Michael thinks I am gilding or was it gelding the lilly with this approach. That its too much.

Well, the lumber I would use is 8/4 so its got to be laminated anyway. But it is an item designed to "show off" the shop. To fish for business if you will. So by leaving the thrumb nail exposed, I will be demonstrating the precision of that joint which otherwise would be hidden from view. The radial or fan effect would be rather interesting as well. So if I go this route, I think I am just going to sand down the end grain of the thumb nail and leave it. Matter of fact, most folks havent a clue when it comes to understanding the difference between say a lock mitre joint and a rabbit or dado joint. This might actually help us out in educating these folks.

And Nick, yes, I do fume white oak. If you truely understand the nature of this wood, fuming is one way to **LIGHT** up the fleck and give it maxium iridescence. Goobering it up with shoe polish stain will dull this iridescence. No big deal. Just use blue line drawing developer which is aq. ammonia used by blue line printing machines.