Filling dents/scrapes/etc prior to paint

[daniel lane]

Hi, all -

Quick question - I am going to be painting a BB ply surface soon but there are a couple of surface damage spots I'd like to fix so they don't telegraph through milk paint. I've successfully used nail hole filler / spackle under paint at home (drywall), but I've never really though about how to (almost) skim coat a wood surface to fill damage prior to paint. I have a can of Durham's rock hard water putty that I use for nail holes and the like, but the can specifically says, "Do not use in a thin paint-like layer," which is essentially what I'd like to do.

Anyone done anything like this? Any recommendations? I used an unknown brand of wood filler once to correct a small crack between mitered joints of baseboard molding, and it...ahem...inhaled deeply. Would not like to use it again. Is the Minwax any better? I really think I'm looking for something like a drywall mud that I can scrape fairly level and then sand before painting.

For reference, the damaged areas range from a tiny crack (I think Durham's would work here) to a small chip out of the top layer. I do not believe I could steam out any of these, as they aren't really dents as much as scratches.



Thanks,

daniel

[Howard Acheson]

I am not an expert on Milk Paint but I would be concerned that any patched area will telegraph through the Milk Paint. Milk Paint is not like other paints in that it contains little in the way of solids. It's really more of dye and absorption may very well be different on the real wood verses the wood that has had a patching material applied.

I would strongly suggest you make up a piece of scrap sanded just like you plan to do on your project. Then mimic some repairs, apply your Milk Paint and see how it goes.

[daniel lane]

Howard, et al. - I have been traveling, so no go on this yet, but I thought I'd let you know I do intend to do a sample board. I'm thinking I'll gouge it up in a couple of ways, fill, sand, and finish. I spent some time researching different fillers and found one that appears to have very fine solids. Can't recall the name right now, but after 30 minutes of opening containers at the BORG (with assistance), I found one that seems fine enough to fill a hairline scratch okay, and it hardens enough to sand. Once I get it all done, I'll post results.

Also, I'm going to try the Durham's. In retrospect, I don't want to use it in a thin, paint-like layer, I want to apply it like that and then sand it off (except for what stays in the thin scratches/etc.).


daniel

[Jason Roehl]

I've used Durham's exactly as you described, but not under milk paint. To fill smaller cracks, scratches, holes and the like, mix it a little thinner, like a bad milkshake (thin, but not watery). It works well this way, but, like I said, I don't know how it would work under milk paint, so you'd have to test that part.