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Thread: Shapton Glasstones -- out of favor?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by Noah Wagener View Post
    Someone on here mentioned using some type of alcohol with waterstones and i don not think it would get cold enough to feeze that.
    Using alcohol to reduce the freezing point of water will work but I'd question the viability of doing it. At -10 degree Celsius you would need over 20% of alcohol in solution. If your shop gets down to -20 degrees Celsius you need a 40% alcohol solution.

    Assuming most of us don't have access to cheap pure ethnol, methylated spirits could be used to achieve the required solution in a cost effective way but that comes with a health risk. It might not be safe get methylated spirits on you hands every time you sharpen. The materials data sheet for methylated spirits says to use nitrile gloves from memory which in my opinion would be a hassle.

    Ethanol also evaporates quite quickly so you would have to sure you keep the solution sealed air tight and that you regullaly add more ethanol to the solution quite frequently. I'm not sure if ethanol would have any negative effects on the binder or the abrasive used in the stones but that might be something to consider.

    I think it would be more of a hassle than a than it's worth. It would probably be easier to take the stones inside when your don't for the day. In the long run it would probably be cheaper to buy stones that don't require soaking if you don't want to leave them out.

  2. #32
    I have used both Shapton glass stones and Shapton pro's. The glass stones work well but wear very fast. They were supposed to be formulated for A2 steel but I do not see or feel any difference. I have used just about every sharpening method out there and have just settled on hollow grind (now I have a tormek, I used a hand crank or "Cordless" grinder for 20 years) and Shapton Pro 1K, 5K ,15K. I only use the 1K after a fresh grind to set the bevel and camber the blade. If a plane or a chisel is just loosing it's edge a bit (not dull) I just use the 5K and a few strops on the 15K. The Naniwa Chorsea are pretty close and I like the 400 Chorsea (Its a fast cutter but not too soft and doesn't deep scratches). I use it for nicks and such. I do not know all of the particle microns and such nonsense. I just know I get the best edge quickly with the Shapton Pro's. I use an Atoma plate to keep them flat.

    For what it is worth

    George
    George Beck
    Fishers Laser Carvers

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Henderson2 View Post
    the flattener was spritz-and-go too; no effluent to deal with. I don't have a sink in my garage where I do my woodworking, so I have to trundle buckets of water in from the kitchen and afterwards there is grody effluent that gets trundled out to the street sewer.
    You'd really want to rinse out the stone after flattening, quite a bit of white cream of sorts gets created when you flatten, so no water would still be an issue. If you have no ready source of water, I think diamonds are way ahead in terms of convenience and I prefer them to my glass stones (I have 1, 4 and 8k) mainly because they stay flat.

    The only advantage Shapton stones have, in my limited experience, with mostly A2 steels, is that they feel a bit nicer when you are rubbing stuff on them. Metal-on-metal action with diamond plates is a not pleasant (not terribly unpleasant either... just indifferent). If you are the kind who gets off on sharpening, this might matter.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,621
    Hello all,

    Many thanks for the perspectives. I'll likely go with some combination of Shaptons and diamonds (in the coarser range). Will report back. Winton, thanks for the tip on Craftsman Studios. I'll likely order from there or Stu.

    (and i hear you on the buy books, then food--my bandsaw was more than my truck...).

    Cheers,
    Chris C

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,621
    Hello all,

    I'm honing in on Shapton Pros from Stu (pardon). Am considering either a two-stone set up with 1k and 8k or springing for a three stone set up. The question would be 1k, 5k, 12k or 1k, 8k, 12k? or 1k, 5k, 8k...

    Also, anyone know what his lead time is lately--I've heard he's backed up (I emailed a similar question and haven't heard back).

    Thanks all!
    C

  6. #36
    I don't think 3 are necessary. 1k and 8k would be a good setup.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    1,617
    I'm with David when it comes to honing the edge. I use a grinder for a hollow bevel, a 1000 for a secondary bevel and a 16k for a tertiary bevel.

    For polishing the backs of chisels, I use a 4k and a 8 or 10k before taking it to the 16k. Yes, it's overkill. Yes, it takes time, but you only do it once.

    Jim
    One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!

  8. #38
    Id say grab the 1k and 12k or 8k and see how you like it. If you feel you need an in-between, pick up the 5k. I personally have the 1k, 5k, and 15k and like the setup. You would be surprised that you can get a near mirror surface with the 5k. So 8k might be a good stopping point. I just like having the 15k

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    western, NY
    Posts
    339
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Gibson View Post
    I have had pro stones for a couple years now. I bought the 1k, 5k, and 15k. If I had to do it again I would have not bothered with the 5k. I never use it. I have a dmt course/xcourse that I use to flatten my stones and course work. not cheep but I am very happy with the results i get with the combo...
    Im with Andrew on this one that is my basic set up as well I don't have or use the 5k I have the 8k instead and use it more than the 15k I also have the extra fine dmt for when im in a hurry and im very happy with what I have cant see changing anything til I wear something out!

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