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Thread: Home made Festool Domino

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Magnolia, Texas
    Posts
    363
    Well I also just got my set of plans.

  2. #17
    How do you make the tenons? You make the tool but then where do you get the tenons to use with the nifty mortises you just cut?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    1,003
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Mayo View Post
    How do you make the tenons? You make the tool but then where do you get the tenons to use with the nifty mortises you just cut?
    How about making them? Just plane a long board to the thickness, rip to the width and round over the edges twice, then cut to the required lengths. Done it numerous times.
    Or you can buy them at different thickness here: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,250,43217

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    How about making them? Just plane a long board to the thickness, rip to the width and round over the edges twice, then cut to the required lengths. Done it numerous times.
    Or you can buy them at different thickness here: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,250,43217
    Thanks for the link Mreza but it didn't dawn on me to just mill the stock and run it through the router table with a bullnose bit.

  5. #20
    Pretty cool!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Magnolia, Texas
    Posts
    363
    For anyone that has bought the plans Matthias over at WoodGears. ca has a program called BigPrint that will take the plans and make full size drawings to use as cutout templates. You can even use it to make full size prints from pictures if you know at least one of the dimensions.

    I figure I would pass this along as it would save alot of layout work.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Magnolia, Texas
    Posts
    363
    Thought I would post a little update. I built mine out of phenolic and did a few modifications to the slide mechanism and used springs instead of the bungee cord he listed.
    002.jpg001.jpg

    Here is a couple of mortises I cut with it.
    004.jpg003.jpg

    And when I put the solid wood onto the piece of plywood the sides I referenced off of came out flush.
    005.jpg006.jpg

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Camas, WA 98607
    Posts
    77
    Alan.... I am impressed! Again!

    Lornie

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    1,003
    Thanks for the update. Looks great. What bit are you using there?

    If one could use 3/8" or so bits instead of 1/4" bits it would be a more robust mortising bit. Being limited to 1/4" bits makes it a little limited I feel.
    I guess one could try building one with a full size router instead.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    3,853
    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Thanks for the update. Looks great. What bit are you using there?

    If one could use 3/8" or so bits instead of 1/4" bits it would be a more robust mortising bit. Being limited to 1/4" bits makes it a little limited I feel.
    I guess one could try building one with a full size router instead.
    Just cut more slots and add more tenons!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Magnolia, Texas
    Posts
    363
    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Thanks for the update. Looks great. What bit are you using there?

    If one could use 3/8" or so bits instead of 1/4" bits it would be a more robust mortising bit. Being limited to 1/4" bits makes it a little limited I feel.
    I guess one could try building one with a full size router instead.
    If I remember correctly there was something about the rule of thirds for the tenon thickness. So 1/3 of 3/4" stock is 1/4". A 3/8" bit would be 10mm. How many here actually use a 10mm bit in there domino for joing 3/4" stock?

    Just an FYI. I cut the slot that the bit passes thru with a 3/4" diameter router bit and just plunged it into the phenolic and moved it back and forth like I was cutting a mortise.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Burr Ridge, IL
    Posts
    303
    What I couldn't quite understand was when he measured the width of the tenon with the caliper, he looked at the notches he had on the back, slid the carriage bolt on the bottom to the desired location and he had the perfect width for the cut dialed in. Is there something about those marks in the back that relate to dialing in an exact width of cut? Or did he create marks for the different widths of tenons he was using? If it's the latter, the calipers would have been unnecessary.

  13. #28
    All I want to know is where's the SYSTAINER.
    Tom

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Battle Ground, WA.
    Posts
    389
    Alan
    Like Lornie said, "Alan.... I am impressed" GREAT JOB. Tom

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    1,669
    Hey John,

    Got any pics of that horizontal router/mortiser? I would love to see them.

    Rick Potter

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