If the table is out with respect to the head/lens plane , the easiest fix is to cut a nice flat sheet of 3 or 5mm anodised aluminium and shim it up atop the original table.
Honeycombs are a big problem in respect of maintaining exact focus , over time they sag and often the frames are out
When focus is critical , I would rather use the table and use blocks to elevate when and if cutting. The anodising of the ally (even when the table is true , we still use a thin sheet atop the table) actually sort of acts as a backstop to stop any flashback. If you use black , its easy to make templates , cos all you do is run the outline of the object and it comes out white..
Of course there are times when you HAVE to use the honeycomb ..but we try avoid it if we can..
Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
3 x GCC 30w explorers. 3x GCC 30w Spirits. Roland 2300 rotary . 5 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter.
1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers
The nicest thing about smacking your head against the wall is.....the feeling you get when you stop!