Indroduction and New Shop Input

[Steve Keathley]

Hello all. I've been lurking for a couple of weeks researching and reading, but this is my first post so go easy on me while I learn my way around. I know there is some great advice to be had here.

I've been a wood working dabbler for about 10 years now. I have some basic job site grade tools (Table Saw, Compound Mitre Saw, track saw, etc.) and have managed to build a few nice things without ruining too much wood in the process.

Last year we bought a 180 year old house that had been fully restored in the 80's, but it's time for another round remodeling. Since I enjoy this type of work, I now have an excuse for an actual shop. We are building a new 3 car garage (for the cars) which frees up the existing 2 car garage to be converted to a wood shop. The main space is 21x18 with a 4x8 storage room on the back. The ceiling height is only 8'. I can't go up because my wife's studio is above the garage. She has 11' ceilings. Figures.

Even though though this is an existing structure, I will take it down to the studs so I have a lot of flexibility which includes the size and placement of the doors. I have to move these as city ordinance doesn't allow me to have more than 3 garage doors facing the street.

I am just starting to plan this out, but here is what I have so far...

Lighting - general and workstation specific
Lot's of electricity - 120 and 240V
Dust Collection - 3hp min
Fine partical air filtration
Plumb for compressed air

Since I have a blank canvas, what else should I consider adding now, or allowing for in the future while it's down to the studs.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[Larry Browning]

If you are planning on going back to sheet rock, be sure to add some bracing you can nail to. Also, take pictures of the walls before you put up the sheet rock. It is very helpful 2 years later when you want to know where stuff is behind the sheet rock. Install your wall outlets 50" above the floor, that way a sheet of plywood leaning against the wall will not block the outlets. Add outlets in the ceiling for both electricity and air. Put them in the floor as well if you can. But be careful with that, only place them where they will be needed for machines. They should also be mounted perpendicular to the floor to reduce the sawdust in the box.
These and lots of other ideas are abundant here at SMC.
Oh, one more thing. WELCOME TO THE CREEK! We love new members. Please consider becoming a contributor. You are not too late to register for some great give away prizes. Oh, wait, on second thought, don't register for those prizes,it will just decrease my chances to win!!!!

[Steve Keathley]

I like free stuff .

Those are some good tips. I won't be putting up sheetrock. I'm thinking about peg board.

[Jim Andrew]

Insulate. And consider how you plan to heat and cool the shop. Welcome to the forum.

[John Bailey]

One of the things I did was to put either rough sawn 1x8's or tongue and groove on the walls. I did it for looks, but found the utility of being able to put anything wherever I wanted a real treat.

Also, keeping your electric at least 50" above the floor helps being able to store sheet goods and other things and still be able to get at the receptacles.

You should try to keep the wall opposite your outside doors free of impediments. When I first built my shop, I thought I was doing myself a favor by putting work space everywhere I could. However, what I ended up doing was to limit my working space for me to get around. Now I have a straight shot from my outside door to the opposite wall. It makes it easier to get around when working on larger projects. I've still got storage on that wall, but it's above my height so I don't have to bend and duck to get around.

Like many will say, put in lots of electrical. I've got 3 4/gang receptacles on each wall, a 220 line on each wall and both 110 and 220 in the middle of the ceiling. I love my retracting extension that's in the middle of the ceiling. When using corded hand tools, I never have to step over or around extension cords. By the way, get at a 12g extension cord. Anything smaller is not sufficient. (The voice of experience here!)

Another thing, many may say to build on to make the space bigger. While, I suppose, bigger can be better for many reasons, I love my 20x20 shop. There are advantages to having a small shop also. It's very easy to get to anything I need. It's easy to take care of and clean up. It's a good size for me.

John

[John Hays]

I like free stuff .

Those are some good tips. I won't be putting up sheetrock. I'm thinking about peg board.

Instead of peg board, you might want to consider using T1-11 wood siding. That way you can hang anything anywhere you want to. Not only does T1-11 look nice, it's also easy to remove (if you install it with screws) in case you need to get to the inner walls in the future.

I would also suggest insulating the walls for climate control. You can go a step further by installing Roxul's "Safe'n'Sound" instead of fiberglass to help soundproof your shop.

Also, if your floor is concrete, lay down an epoxy coating. It'll keep the moisture out and help alleviate slipping on all of the sawdust you'll be generating.

And believe it or not, you're going to want a bathroom as close as possible... or at the very least, a utility sink.

One last thing, I highly recommend a mini-split heat pump unit (or two). I don't care where you live, eventually it's going to be too hot or too cold in the shop to get any work done, so having a good system is going to make your shop experience that much better. I had one installed last June and couldn't be happier.

Of course, all of the above is just 'quality of life' advice, so it depends on how much that matters to you and how much you want to spend to get it.

[Mike Wilkins]

Ditto on what the other said, especially the insulation. I had to come back years after installing the paneling to install the insulation, which only added more work for me. Since you have to do something about the garage doors, consider installing a set of double doors or at least build a 4 foot wide one. Makes moving machines/projects in and out much nicer. Wood wall covering, either solid planks or sheet goods would make wall mounting simpler, and adds a little sound deadening to make the neighbors happy.

[Steve Keathley]

Some really good ideas I hadn't considered. John B... It sounds like your shop is about the same size as mine will be. Thanks for the tip on the cabinets opposite the doors. That was exactly where I had planned to put them. I will have to reconsider my layout.