Bandsaw blade sources - revisited

[Larry Browning]

I have been researching bandsaw blades for my new Grizzly G0513X2F.(Pictures when it arrives) It seems like every thread I find on the subject is at least 2 years old. Most are over 5 years old. Many of the older ones sing the praises of Timberwolf blades, while the "newer" ones like other brands such as Lenox or Woodslicer, saying that Timberwolf is not as good.
This got me to thinking that maybe we need a new thread that re-visits the subject.

I am looking for a good blade source where I can get both a set of general purpose blades as well as a good resaw blade from the same supplier. I am looking for blades that work well for kiln dried lumber used for furniture projects. I am not a turner, so cutting bowl blanks and the like is NOT a requirement. I want to do curved work, but nothing real tight. I also want to get into veneer work so a good blade for resawing thin stock if pretty important to me. I am a hobbyist that doesn't work in the shop every day, so I am thinking that a carbon tipped blade might be a bit of overkill for me.

I am experiencing information overload, and am quite confused about which way to go for bandsaw blades. One minute I think I will just call Suffolk Machinery and let them recommend which ones to get, and the next minute I think I will try to figure it out myself.
I have about decided I want to get a 1/4 6tpi, 3/8 4tpi, and a 3/4 resaw blade (but which one???). But I really don't know. Maybe I just need to jump in and see what happens. I can always buy something else if I don't like what I get first.
What to do! What to do!
Arggh

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Larry, one source to consider is a local saw service nearby you.I started buying from a local service that welds blades while I wait.They will even let see different stock they have.Before I leave I take a good look at the weld.They also sharpen the blades.Thats my suggestion .For my small saw I do order Olsen blades online sometimes and buy 93 1/2 from rockler.

[Andrew Joiner]

I agree. I found a local saw service that also sharpens the blades they weld. I get 1/2'' and narrower blades from them for prices as good as online and no shipping. For resawing I get great results on a 21" 5hp Grizzly bandsaw with a resawking . The faces of 8'' wide veneers are nearly as smooth as my best table saw blades can produce. My resawking is a few years old and I hear they changed/improved them.

[Larry Browning]

Hi Larry, one source to consider is a local saw service nearby you.I started buying from a local service that welds blades while I wait.They will even let see different stock they have.Before I leave I take a good look at the weld.They also sharpen the blades.Thats my suggestion .For my small saw I do order Olsen blades online sometimes and buy 93 1/2 from rockler.

I am not aware of a saw service located in my town. I live in a pretty small town. Oh, wait, I did find one. I thing I may take a field trip over there.

[John Bailey]

I like Iturra Design. I call Louis Iturra and tell him what I need to accomplish and he sends me what I need. I've done the same with Suffolk Machinery and they were great to work with also. I don't think you could go wrong with either. I've never dealt with Highland, the other oft mentioned, but their reputation is top notch.

By the way, If you contact Iturra, make sure you get his catalogue. It's a primer on bandsaws in addition to being a catalogue. Louis sells Starret, Lennox and his version of the Woodslicer called the Bladerunner.

Iturra Designs does not have a web presence. You'll have to call -- 904 642 2802, or email --KALLL@comcast.net.

John

[Marty Gulseth]

Based on my admittedly limited experience - +1 on local suppliers. In my neck of the woods, discussion among the club members I know seems to bear this out.
Regards, Marty

[glenn bradley]

I had a run of bad welds from Timberwolf about a year back but, after the third free blade they seem to have fixed the problem. I wonder where the owner's nephew is working now? <-- that's supposed to be funny, I have no idea who works there ;-) At any rate, Timberwolf blades work great as long as you realize blades are a wear-part and must be replaced. The Highland Woodslicer has a narrow kerf which doesn't cut as fast as say a 2-3 skip tooth Timberwolf but, the cuts are smooth and you can squeeze one more part out of that limited stock in those desperate times.

I don't have any carbide blades but, most get rave reviews. I just use Timberwolf or the like for speed and the Woodslicer for a smooth finish. Most saw shops can buy similar stock so if your local guy works out, I would try a few different steels if he offers them and see what you like. Like I said, no cutter lasts forever and its not the last set of blades you'll buy.

[Gus Dundon]

I use 1/2 4TPI blade for my resaw job on my 14inch bandsaw . You can go check with Iturra . But I got mine from www.sawblade.com ,their 201 series , a hard back carbon blade, works great for me.

[Rick Moyer]

This thread had a lot of interesting info about blades.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...s+talk+bandsaw

[paul dyar]

Bite the bullet and get a carbide tipped blade if you are going to do any resawing. It is a lot of money to spend on a blade, but it is worth it.
Paul

[Larry Browning]

Ok, I found a local saw service that is going to make me up a couple blades. A 1/4 6tpi blade and a 3/8 8tpi blade. He said the 8tpi blade would give a smoother cut. I guess this is about as good a starting point as any. I also called Ittura an he recommended a 3/4 3tpi Lenox blade for my resaw blade. I told him I was pretty new at resawing, so he thought the Lenox would be better for me. It is a little easier to get to cut straight. It is a .032 thickness rather the the .022 of the Bladerunner. He said that after I gained a little more experience resawing I might want to try the Bladerunner. Great guy to talk to, he said he would include his big catalog with my order

[Sam Murdoch]

The thread that Rick Moyer is linking to above is a very long and informative Van Huskey tutorial (seems like the best word) on the how and why of bandsaw blades with lots of exchange from others. If you haven't read it Larry it's worth your time.

Here is a Van Huskey quote from a 2010 thread that provides his summary on the topic:

For me BS blades have gotten simple, for Carbide resaw blades the Laguna RK, for bi-metal and carbon blades 1/4" or larger Lenox, for smaller than 1/4" Starrett.

The Lenox and Starrett blades tend to be less expensive even when I find them to be better as long as you buy them from a supply house that welds to order from band stock.

Nothing wrong with a lot of the other blades I just see no reason to pay more when Lenox and Starrett are just as good or better and can be had cheaper.

Worth a bookmark to me.

Let us know how your locally sourced blades work out for you.

[Larry Browning]

One good thing about the local source is that the blades are cheap, so if they don't work out well, not big lose. I think they were about $15 each. The resaw blade I ordered from Ittura cost me ~$40 with shipping. I will be picking up my new saw today, so I will have the weekend to set it up and start learning how to use it. I will probably start a new thread about it.

[Charles Freeborn]

Even after moving from the area (SF) and up to wood cutting country (OR) I still order my b-saw blades from Hastings Saw in Santa Rosa CA.
Hands down the best welds and service I've ever found.
-C

[Andrew Hughes]

I too found buy local saved me time and money.One thing I would like to suggest thats not talked about often is breaking in new blades. I use something soft like popler or soft maple when I get a new blade.Carbon steel blade seem to cut fast and kinda course at first.But they get better then real nice then dull kinda fast.
I hope your new blades work out for you