I just re-inspected the cut left by the Scheppach more closely, and observed some minute kerf marks. I've edited my original post to correct this. Each saw used the blade that was supplied with the saw; if I can get my friend to stop back by we'll try the Festool blade in the Scheppach to see how it impacts cut quality.
There's a stock universal blade supplied with the Festool, but also three more options including I think a fine and a rip. Details and selection charts around p 52 in the UK brochure here: http://tiny.cc/8ae9rw The blades have a good thick plate, big chunks of carbide for teeth, and last well - I've one that's been sharpened three times - nothing like the cheapo chaiwanese ones from a box store. Festool have a sharpening service here that returns them to the factory - they come back good as new.
It cuts very cleanly in stuff like cross grain ply - even the universal. The Festool is also part of a fairly comprehensive wood working system - also in the brochure.
If considering a rail saw as an alternative to longer/larger sheet and rip capability on a table saw it's maybe worth thinking of the TS 75 - that's the version with more power and the larger blade. Also the very long 8ft or so one piece rail - I have two standard rails, but find the joiner a little untrustworthy regarding holding alignment/straight line. I have the TS 55 (one of the original late 90s version - very similar in spec to the current model) which has been great - but which can seem a bit short of depth of cut on larger jobs. It can also find itself sailing a little close to the wind for power if (which is probably why there's a rip blade available) ripping in thick solid wood near it's maximum depth of cut with the stock blade.
ian
Last edited by ian maybury; 02-09-2013 at 5:22 PM.
I tested some saws when I bought a circular saw for the panel saw I built. You can feel for play in the bearings by shaking the blade with your fingertips. The cheaper saws have wobble when you shake the blade sideways. At the time the Porter Cable saw had the least play of the saws I tested.
With the same blade a saw with even slight bearing play will not cut as smooth as a saw with no bearing play.
You are right Andrew and I know that. In this case though it's not clear whether the lower quality cut is entirely due to the tool or partly because of the blade (or entirely).
So to figure out how the tools compare, one has to test them with the same type of blade.
Years ago I bought an older ATF55 saw with no track. I made a track, but when Grizzly starts selling this saw, I may buy some track and make it fit my Festool. Since my saw doesn't make money, the Festool track is out of my price range.
John
The Festool guide rails can just sit on the stock being cut. There is rubber on the bottom that usually keeps the rail from sliding around. However, there are also clamps that you can use to make sure nothing moves. When I cut up a sheet of plywood with mine, I use the clamps just to make sure. I lay the wood on a sheet of foam rigid insulation so the blade protruding through the bottom of the cut doesn't cut into the table. I also made a folding wooden frame for the same purpose, but I like the insulation better.
Mark
I recently purchased the TS 75 for another reason. Ripping an edge on 8/4 + material. I've been using an EZ rail with my Makita "screamer" and my Milwaukee Worm Drive. Neither have the depth capacity of the TS 75.
The benefits of using it on sheet goods are not lost to me, and I will be using it for that purpose, but I have a tendency to work with long, hard, heavy, tropical lumber species and hopefully the TS 75 saves my back a bit. (16'x34"x8/4) Padauk is outside my physical ability to horse around.)
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
I noticed that all of the posts on the thread are over a year old and I was wondering if Scheppach has addressed any of the issues raised.