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Thread: Soaking ceramic water stones (Stu's special set)

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Question Soaking ceramic water stones (Stu's special set)

    Hi to all,

    I received my first sharpening set from Stu a little while ago (#1200, 6000 & 13000 with the Atoma)...I'm just about ready to start on a major sharpening session as I also bought my initial set of planes from LV (LA Jack, Jointer, smoothing plane, a #5 1/2, shoulder plane, router and small plow). I've never sharpened before and have an older plane iron from a #4 Whitmore smoother to practice on. I guess my first question is what I do with the "special" stone set from Stu as far as soaking goes? Do I place them all in water for a period of time? Do I soak them for a short time prior to use? Should they "live" in water all the time and if so, how often should I change out the water?

    Any advise is appreciated. I've done a search here but haven't been able to find a clear answer. For what its worth, freezing isn't an issue (well no more than living in Northern British Columbia is any given day!) Oh, and I've got Ron Hocks book to follow for the actual sharpening process.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    The 1200 needs to be soaked at least a minute or two. The 6k and the 13k can be soaked, or used with just a splash. I feel they work better soaked. All three can be soaked permanently. Just change the water from time to time. Since freezing isn't an issue, I would recommend just leaving them in water. Another option is to keep them in some kind of plastic container(s), fill it up every time you go into the shop, leave them in water while your in the shop and then empty the when your done for the day.

    They are very flexible stones you can use them however. My preference is just to let them live in water though.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  3. #3
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    Not meaning to steal a thread but I just got the 1000, 6000, and 13,000 from Stu. The 6,000 has a base. It looks like some sort of polymer. Can it soak in the water indefinitely too?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn Samuels View Post
    Not meaning to steal a thread but I just got the 1000, 6000, and 13,000 from Stu. The 6,000 has a base. It looks like some sort of polymer. Can it soak in the water indefinitely too?
    Well, I can't tell you unequivocally since I have baseless, but I can't imagine it would be any kind of issue. It's just plastic, and I'm 99.99999% sure it would be fine. I wouldn't personally worry about it but if you want 100% certainty shoot Stu and email.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  5. #5
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    I am not sure but I thought I read somewhere that Stu advised against continuous soaking of these stones. Stated that there is a potential for algae growth. Anybody else hear that?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Stewart View Post
    I am not sure but I thought I read somewhere that Stu advised against continuous soaking of these stones. Stated that there is a potential for algae growth. Anybody else hear that?
    Sounds pretty much like any other stone you soak continuously. That's always a problem, and some people put a few drops of bleach in the water to combat it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Stewart View Post
    I am not sure but I thought I read somewhere that Stu advised against continuous soaking of these stones. Stated that there is a potential for algae growth. Anybody else hear that?
    Yes, Stu has stated that it can be an issue if you don't change the water. As long as you change the water periodically its not an issue.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  8. #8
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    If I remember correctly Stu told me to soak those stones about 10 minutes prior to use.

    PHM

  9. #9
    Try what works for you! You wont destroy the stones trying out different methods. Just dont drop them on a concrete floor, everything else they can pretty much handle

    But starting out in sharpening just throw all off them in a bucket of water for a few minutes then just go to town and start looking for that burr!

    Starting out with these stones I had a few problems because I was using them way too wet (the 6&13k). You'll learn how much water you need on and in the stone as you go along! Have fun!

  10. #10
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    Hi Rob

    I keep mine in sealed plastic tubs (from the supermarket), one per tub. I am lucky to have a sink in my shop, and have sideboards for both the tubs and for where I sharpen. The tubs look like this ..



    To keep the stone off the grunge that can occur at the bottom of a tub there is a ring of tubing, and the stone is placed on top of this. This also helps regulate the amount of stone being soaked in the case of a 1200/13000 combo.



    Oh, the reason for labeling is just in case that the colour may get lost ...



    The tubs get filled at the start of each session in the shop, then drained at the end.

    Here is the sharpening centre (taken about 2 years ago) with Pro Shaptons at the ready ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Nice setup Derek. Gives me something to shoot for.
    Last edited by Glenn Samuels; 02-09-2013 at 9:58 PM.

  12. #12
    I have the 1000/6000/13000 set frim Stu and I soak the 1000 for a few minutes (or until it stops bubbling ), I soak the 13000 while I'm using the 1000 and I just splash the 13K.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Thanks very much guys...we have a new stat. holiday here in British Columbia on Monday and I intend to spend an appreciable amount of time at the bench, with the stones....it'll be the first session, with many more to come!

  14. Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Rob

    I keep mine in sealed plastic tubs (from the supermarket), one per tub. I am lucky to have a sink in my shop, and have sideboards for both the tubs and for where I sharpen. The tubs look like this ..



    To keep the stone off the grunge that can occur at the bottom of a tub there is a ring of tubing, and the stone is placed on top of this. This also helps regulate the amount of stone being soaked in the case of a 1200/13000 combo.



    Oh, the reason for labeling is just in case that the colour may get lost ...



    The tubs get filled at the start of each session in the shop, then drained at the end.

    Here is the sharpening centre (taken about 2 years ago) with Pro Shaptons at the ready ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Well, that certainly gives new meaning to the saying 'go big or go home.' But I have a feeling you would assert that this is a modest set up. I thought it was interesting that you noted the color of each stone on a label.

    Seems a bit fussy but I'm sure the edges are worth it. No way they could be anything less than stellar.
    Last edited by Charlie Stanford; 02-10-2013 at 6:44 AM.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Stanford View Post
    I thought it was interesting that you noted the color of each stone on a label.
    He noted which color matches up with which grit on his 2 sided stones in case the markings came off.

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