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Thread: Diamond Paste

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,443
    On the subject of diamonds, does anyone have any experience with the Naniwa (at least, I believe it was Naniwa) diamond "stones" - it's something like a mm layer of diamond embedded in some sort of a binder on the top of a plate, as opposed to a thin layer of diamond bonded directly to the metal plate like the diamond hones one normally see. At least, if I'm remembering the thing right. Not really interested in getting any, I've got a working set up, and I remember them being expensive, but this thread reminded me of them and I was curious.

    Sorry about my comments on flattening - I went back and re-read the original post, and yeah, those plates are big, and really out of flat. Obviously I missed that, because like others have commented, getting that much iron flat is apt to difficult given what I suggested.

    Maybe you should go the other way, and try and make it *more* hollow! Then you could sharpen a scrub plane blade without all that annoying rocking to hit the whole bevel! (I'm joking)
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Steve Friedman View Post
    David,

    I have used diamond paste, but never loose diamonds. Do you have a recommendation for a source for the loose diamonds? Also, what's your favorite lubricant to use with them?

    Thanks,

    Steve
    Sorby used to sell diamond spray in an aerosol can back in the day.....

    None of this, you see, is anything near new.
    Last edited by Charlie Stanford; 02-19-2013 at 11:13 AM.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Kees Heiden View Post
    It looks like the beauty of diamonds hasn't quite reached the Dutch shores yet. I can't find anyone supplying these.

    How about silicum carbide? That stuff is cheap and very easy to get.

    I did find a mild steel plate in the shop, but am afraid it is far from flat. So just to be sure I'll order the Veritas one.
    Silicon carbide, fractures too easily. Probably makes it suitable for high speed steel more so than aluminum oxide, but neither is as good for just honing metal and carbide as are diamonds.

    If you want to find them in holland, look for lapidary supply places. They'll probably be cheapest there (other than ebay), anyway.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Stanford View Post
    Sorby used to sell diamond spray in an aerosol can back in the day.....

    None of this, you see, is anything near new.
    Not new, just newly inexpensive. Woodworking supply is probably the last place to get diamonds, even if it was 40 years ago.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Pierce View Post
    On the subject of diamonds, does anyone have any experience with the Naniwa (at least, I believe it was Naniwa) diamond "stones" - it's something like a mm layer of diamond embedded in some sort of a binder on the top of a plate, as opposed to a thin layer of diamond bonded directly to the metal plate like the diamond hones one normally see. At least, if I'm remembering the thing right. Not really interested in getting any, I've got a working set up, and I remember them being expensive, but this thread reminded me of them and I was curious.

    Sorry about my comments on flattening - I went back and re-read the original post, and yeah, those plates are big, and really out of flat. Obviously I missed that, because like others have commented, getting that much iron flat is apt to difficult given what I suggested.

    Maybe you should go the other way, and try and make it *more* hollow! Then you could sharpen a scrub plane blade without all that annoying rocking to hit the whole bevel! (I'm joking)
    Those sintered plates, or however they're manufactured, will eventually become out of flat. My opinion (and only my opinion) is that they're a waste of money unless you need them. There's not much in woodworking that you need diamonds for (maybe carbide tooling).

    Naniwa and others make them. As easilly as I can be parted from money for sharpening gear, I've never had the real urge to buy one.

  6. #36
    Charlie,
    You need (maybe not ) to benefit from a bigger picture. As mentioned, I am competent with the sharpening media that I have used for more than 20 years. There is a challenge of learning something new, developing new skills. The cast iron piece was there and I wanted to know if I can do anything with it, with the resources at hand. Some go to flea markets, get stuff and spend many hours refurbishing it. It must be satisfying when it works. Life can be enjoyed even in activities that require effort (such as using a hacksaw - I would not, had power saw available).
    "wearing a hair shirt"? What the heck, it is Lent in progress. Ha, ha. You might as well argue (you wouldn't do that on a Neander forum would you ..) that using hand tools instead of power tools is hairy. I could also buy the furniture and other wooden items for around the house instead of making it. If learning something new requires effort, do you avoid it? I might still win with the plates (better work on it before the Lent is over...)
    Best wishes,
    Metod

  7. #37
    Hi Derek,
    Not knowing otherwise, I do not plan to junk my oiled water stones. I would still like to 'win' with the plates, if I can. It's a challenge now - almost for its own sake. I know of LV diamond mesh papers. I doubt (theoretically) that they would make a tangible difference with the .5 micron green compound. One or two passes and being down to the 'green level"?
    Best wishes,
    Metod

  8. Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    Not new, just newly inexpensive. Woodworking supply is probably the last place to get diamonds, even if it was 40 years ago.
    Nickel holding up a dime...

  9. These things often appear to me to be a solution in search of a problem.
    Last edited by Charlie Stanford; 02-20-2013 at 11:17 AM.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Stanford View Post
    Nickel holding up a dime...
    No, that saying doesn't fit sharpening with diamonds. It's not comparable to sharpening with sandpaper, and only in the mind of someone who hasn't actually done it would that thought occur.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494
    Hi Metod

    There are pros and cons to the 0.5 green compound versus the 0.5 diamond mesh.

    The disadvantage of the mesh is that it must be used carefully as it is vulnerable to tearing is there is a rough edge to the blade. Having said this, I have managed 100 uses without damage.

    The green compound is chromium and aluminium oxide, with an average distribution of 0.5 micron grit. The diamond mesh is a more consistent 0.5 micron grit, as I understand. I have not compared them side-by-side, and am not sure whether you notice a difference, but the mesh is nicer to use - better feedback and faster. I think that you would definitely notice a difference with the 0.1 micron mesh

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    No, that saying doesn't fit sharpening with diamonds. It's not comparable to sharpening with sandpaper, and only in the mind of someone who hasn't actually done it would that thought occur.
    I freely admit to not having "mastered" or having the equipage to abrade steel five different ways as mood may strike on any given day.

  13. #43
    Metod, where are you located? If you can find some green chromium oxide powder or paste (without the influence of aluminum oxide), that would be a comparable edge to something just sub 0.25 micron diamond. It costs about $1-2 an ounce from lapidary supply places or slightly more from shaving suppliers.

    can be used on anything you have floating around as a scrap.

    I don't use it on tools unless I have a paring chisel or something to sell, or on a leather buff for carving tools, but I have yet to find even a razor stone that can match it for ease of use on razors, and the edge is less ragged than what diamonds do.

    Presume $10 of green chromium oxide might be something to repurchase in 10 years, you'd use something like that only on paring chisels or carving tools, and maybe if you were entertaining yourself with a smoother, though the good quality 1 micron stones seem to be about the practical limit where you no longer notice a difference surface brightness, and they also don't functionally have any wire edge for practical purposes.

  14. I know that Garrett Hack uses diamond paste right atop a hard black Arkansas stone per an article in Fine Woodworking. Maybe this is a bit of an expensive solution since they won't become embedded in the Arky over time. With this caveat firmly in mind, the paste-on-stone seems to be a path of least resistance if one needs whatever it is diamonds bring to the table, which I assume is a high degree of polish and hopefully refinement of cutting edges.

    It does appear to work for Hack and I'm guessing that he doesn't particularly care about cost: http://garretthack.com/
    Last edited by Charlie Stanford; 02-20-2013 at 11:21 AM.

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Stanford View Post
    I freely admit to not having "mastered" or having the equipage to abrade steel five different ways as mood may strike on any given day.
    Making posts with no useful information "five different ways" has been adequately mastered, though.

    We've seen that the urge is bound to strike on "any given day". But the different ways may be much greater than five.

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