Wood finish for outdoor use ???

[Rob Matarazzo]

Years ago I made a rack for transporting fishing rods on the roof of my vehicle. It's made out of red oak and finished with (probably) several coats of polyurethane. I don't remember exactly what finish it was, but I will say that it did not hold up well against the elements (rain, salt air, etc.). It developed ugly black blotches. I'm eventually going to strip it down and refinish, but I'm looking for recommendations on a good finish for this application. Spar varnish maybe?

[Todd Burch]

Exterior paint. Your lowest maintenance option.

[Stew Hagerty]

I like General Finishes Outdoor Oil. It penetrates so that small nicks & scratches don't leave a gap in the protective coating the way a film finish does.

[Charlie Watson]

Look into the marine finishes, they are made for a pretty tough environment

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...arnish_reviews

[John TenEyck]

Red oak is a poor choice for outdoor applications, but assuming you are going to strip off what's there and clean up the black spots (which might not be easy) about the longest lasting outdoor clearcoat finish is Epifanes Marine Varnish - $50/quart. I've used it on several outdoor projects and it has done a very good job; 4 years before I had to do any touch up. You can buy it at any West Marine I believe. Helmsman Spar Varnish, and others, are nearly worthless outdoors. General Finishes 450 Exterior Poly is well regarded by many as well, but I have no personal experience with it.

John

[Rob Matarazzo]

Any opinions on Man-O-War spar marine varnish?

[John TenEyck]

Any opinions on Man-O-War spar marine varnish?

No, sorry, but an article in FWW a few years ago comparing several clear outdoor finishes showed the oils and most clearcoats were pretty much worthless - in less than a year they were severely degraded and the wood underneath was showing decay. Epifanes was the only clearcoat, IIRC, that survived their outdoor testing. If you want to use a clear finish, it would be my first choice.

John

[Brian Kent]

I agree about Epifanes. Note that it takes 7 coats. Also, I don't know if there is a way to seal the porous gain before the varnish.

[Charlie Fox]

No, sorry, but an article in FWW a few years ago comparing several clear outdoor finishes showed the oils and most clearcoats were pretty much worthless - in less than a year they were severely degraded and the wood underneath was showing decay. Epifanes was the only clearcoat, IIRC, that survived their outdoor testing. If you want to use a clear finish, it would be my first choice.

John

dug up this post from earlier this year - wondering if General Finishes Outdoor Oil was one of the products tested? i am applying it now to the individual pieces of my "mother of all wedding benches" and i like how it goes on, wipe on, set 10 min, wipe off. i am going with 3-4 coats as this cypress is soaking it up pretty good. a light 0000 steel wool buffing leaves a nice, silky smooth matte finish. the bench will be on a porch outside but not exposed. i went with an oil so that all the kids have to do is wipe it down with mineral spirits and apply a fresh coat each year on or about their anniversary, and a wipe/wipe off is pretty much fool proof and the whole thing can be done in less than an hour. otherwise, they would have to sand the entire thing and then apply poly, not a fun job for rookies.

wondering if i should apply a paste wax to it afterwards - the only issue is the back is laser-engraved with their names, and wax would get in their a little and turn white. unless there is a better wax option that does not turn white.....

[Howard Acheson]

Some of the relevent points have already been made. Red oak is not a good choice for outdoor appliations. White oak is more water and moisture resistance. Poly of any type is a poor choice for an exterior finish. The UV in sunlight will rapidly deteriorate the finish leading to it becoming cloudy more amber followed by cracking and peeling.

The most protective finish is an opaque paint followed by a non-poly spar varnish. The best is Epifanes which you can get at a marine supply store. None of the big box so-called "spar marine finishes" are good and protective products.

The black blotches have been caused by the failing of the finish. It has allowed rain water to get into the wood. Rain water and water spray from streets contains lots of contaminates which cause the staining. Oxalic acid will remove most of these stains. You can get oxalic acid in most full line paint stores.

[Art Mann]

I only wish I had been reading the wisdom of Howard before I finished a pair of Adirondack chairs I made for our front porch. I used a polyurethane "spar" varnish to finish the cypress of which they were made. They turned out really pretty. The finish began to crack and get cloudy within a year, even though they were not out in the rain and received only late afternoon sun. At this point, I think paint is the only alternative for a refinish.

[Charlie Fox]

I only wish I had been reading the wisdom of Howard before I finished a pair of Adirondack chairs I made for our front porch. I used a polyurethane "spar" varnish to finish the cypress of which they were made. They turned out really pretty. The finish began to crack and get cloudy within a year, even though they were not out in the rain and received only late afternoon sun. At this point, I think paint is the only alternative for a refinish.

which is why i opted for an oil. if i were putting this in direct sun i dont know what i would do, but i really dont like the idea of spar varnish plus the Waterlox i have tried is way to amber in color. This GF Outdoor Oil sure looks great so far, and hopefully a yearly reapplication will keep it so. just seems to make sense to use something that soaks in and protects on a more cellular (i hope) level as opposed to an overall hard surface.

[Stew Hagerty]

which is why i opted for an oil. if i were putting this in direct sun i dont know what i would do, but i really dont like the idea of spar varnish plus the Waterlox i have tried is way to amber in color. This GF Outdoor Oil sure looks great so far, and hopefully a yearly reapplication will keep it so. just seems to make sense to use something that soaks in and protects on a more cellular (i hope) level as opposed to an overall hard surface.

I've used the GF Outdoor Oil for years and I've never found any exterior finish than can beat it. It's easy to apply, it looks great, it has UV inhibitors to keep the wood looking good, and it's a snap to touch up every year or two.

[Charlie Fox]

I've used the GF Outdoor Oil for years and I've never found any exterior finish than can beat it. It's easy to apply, it looks great, it has UV inhibitors to keep the wood looking good, and it's a snap to touch up every year or two.

thanks. wondering though - would it good/not good to add a coat or two of GF Gel Topcoat to the seat area where it will get the most wear?

[John TenEyck]

thanks. wondering though - would it good/not good to add a coat or two of GF Gel Topcoat to the seat area where it will get the most wear?

GF Gel Topcoat indoors can't even withstand plain water for extended periods of time, much less UV exposure. Not a good choice at all outdoors.

John