New Grizzly Table Saw set up and the fence rail

[Jon Elgas]

I finally purchased my first cabinet table saw (Grizzly 690) and set it up last weekend. What a wonderful experience and joy to do. I’ve been using a Delta Contractors saw for the last 12 years and have always wanted to have a better saw as my projects got more involved. I read here and other places about what saw to get and for me, the price and expectations can’t be beat on this Grizzly saw. That being said, I wanted to share a couple of things I noticed when setting this saw up.

Everything went pretty much as expected, with two exceptions. First, the rear fence railand the nylon follower with the knurled lock nut. The manual says to adjust the fence height off the table to approximately 1/16^th and not higher than 1/8^th. My saw out of the box was sitting around slightly over 1/8^th. I could only get the fence down to around slightly under 1/8^th because the knurled lock nut was hitting the table saw in the mid section of the table where the table is NOT beveled.

Secondly the front fence rail tube is held to the railbracket with 3- bolts. There is a lot of slop on these bolts, about 3/32^th of an inch the tube can be moved in or out. I have a large T-Square that I clamped to the blade, and with a large pair of calipers I managed to get the rail 90deg to the blade within about .008 thousand. How are you guys doing this? When just bolting the rail tube up the first time, I noticed the fence being out to the blade the further I moved it outward to the 29.5 max rip point. That’s when I thought maybe the rail tube was not aligned. I didn’t see anything in the manual about this, so thought of pointing it out here. I would love to hear what others are doing to align the front fence tube.

All in all, I’m very happy with the saw and can’t wait to start the next project!

[ed vitanovec]

Congradulations on your new saw......lets see some pictures.

[John Donofrio]

Secondly the front fence rail tube is held to the railbracket with 3- bolts. There is a lot of slop on these bolts, about 3/32^th of an inch the tube can be moved in or out. I have a large T-Square that I clamped to the blade, and with a large pair of calipers I managed to get the rail 90deg to the blade within about .008 thousand. How are you guys doing this? When just bolting the rail tube up the first time, I noticed the fence being out to the blade the further I moved it outward to the 29.5 max rip point. That�s when I thought maybe the rail tube was not aligned. I didn�t see anything in the manual about this, so thought of pointing it out here. I would love to hear what others are doing to align the front fence tube.

I just went through the setup on the same saw last spring. You just need to get the front rail reasonably close to perpendicular to the blade, which it sounds like you've done. The rest of the 'slop' can be removed by adjusting the actual fence. It can be adjusted in all planes. It's more important to get the front rail parallel to the table top so the fence doesn't move up and down too much as you slide the fence.

[EDIT]. Forgot to congratulate you on your new saw. You should be very pleased with the power and accuracy once tuned.

[Bill Space]

Congratulations on the new saw!

I can't really help, as I just took delivery of a G1023RLWX.... And plan on using my Unifence in place of the Shop Fox fence (I have a nice replacement fence piece to use in place of the basic unifence fence).

I am sure the G0690 will perform for you as well as I expect my new saw will.

Enjoy!!!