More compressor questions - plugs, copper bending, and fittings

[Mike Heidrick]

OK I have installed two Wilkerson setups on my smaller compressors. Now I want to do my large 60 gal compressor. I think I want to use larger pipe and fittings to the regulator assembly.

The compressor has 1/2" or 3/4" npt port out of the main tank.

How do people usually pipe that to their regulator or filter assembly - copper pipe or what?

Do they make 3/4" fittings that fit 3/4" copper pipe or 1/2"?

What the secret to bending copper pipe correctly without kinking it?

What do you call the plugs/blanks you install in manifolds to close off an NPT opening??

Please and thank you for any insight.

[Mike Heidrick]

I actually own a greenlee cable bender - could i use that? I guess I will try it tomorrow.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Use a short section of flexible to isolate the air line from any vibration of the compressor.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's a good look at how this guy did his:
www (dot) cnccookbook.com/CCShopAir.html

[Steve Rozmiarek]

OK I have installed two Wilkerson setups on my smaller compressors. Now I want to do my large 60 gal compressor. I think I want to use larger pipe and fittings to the regulator assembly.

The compressor has 1/2" or 3/4" npt port out of the main tank.

How do people usually pipe that to their regulator or filter assembly - copper pipe or what?

Do they make 3/4" fittings that fit 3/4" copper pipe or 1/2"?

What the secret to bending copper pipe correctly without kinking it?

What do you call the plugs/blanks you install in manifolds to close off an NPT opening??

Please and thank you for any insight.

Mike, my $.02...
To go from the compressor to regulators, piping, filters, whatever, I use a piece of flex hose. Hydraulic line works well and is easy to source.
Yes, they do make those copper fittings, but they are a bit rare in my area, and I wouldn't use them personally.
You can fill pipe with sand and it will help keep it from collapsing. A conduit bender would probably also help?
I call the plugs/blanks, caps.

Personally, I like using galvanized pipe for air lines. Easy to reconfigure, fittings are easy to find, and strong enough to support themselves, couplers, valves or filters without a bunch of straps. Cheaper too, and easier to assemble.

One more thing, steel pipe is more resistant to vibrations than copper. I wouldn't connect copper directly to a compressor, they all vibrate and the copper fittings will break eventually.

[David G Baker]

I agree with Steve R. Flex line or hydraulic lines to prevent damage from vibration. I have used the heavier walled copper pipe for air lines but the cost is much higher than steel or iron. What I have done is wait until the price of copper goes down to a price that won't break the bank then stock up for future projects. I do the same for electrical wire.

[Jim Neeley]

The generally accepted best industrial-grade practice is to connect a compressor to the piping system with a hose encased in stainless steel braid, leaving a bit of a loop so compressor vibration is absorbed in gentle bending.

The hose and stainless steel wire braid absord rather than transmit the vibration. Should the hose leak some day in the future, the braid will let air escape while keeping the hose from being released as schrapnel.

These can be made up for you, with whatever fittings you require, at any tractor supply store for somewhere in the $20-$50 range. This is what I specify for industrial applications and what I had made for my 60 gal, 175psi I-R.

Jim in Alaska

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Jim, what are you doing with 175psi? I can't think of any of my tools rated anywhere close to that.

[Mike Heidrick]

Do you guys have links to some good 1/2" or 3/4" braided hose with ends? Is this something I can buy at Lowes?

[fred klotz]

Try Burdens Surplus in Lincoln Nebraska for high pressure lines with various ends, often at very cheap prices

[Jim Neeley]

Jim, what are you doing with 175psi? I can't think of any of my tools rated anywhere close to that.

Steve,

I don't know that I've ever used the full 175 psi but then I've never had my stereo on 100% either... maybe when I was young? <g>

Seriously, it kicks on at 145 or so and off at 175. I have a regulator on my manifold that steps it down to 125. This pretty much ensures I can get a full 90 (with headroom) anywhere in my shop, whether running a pneumatic ROS or doing the seasons tire swap thing.

I used to have one that kicked on at 100 and off at 125 and I found some of my tool inlet pressures dropping below 90 just before the compressor turned on so when it came time to replace my compressor I kicked it us a notch*.

* The Nerdy answer is that if your pneumatic sander requires 75 psi to operate, a 60 gal at 175 holds about twice as much usable air as one that shuts off at 125. <g>

Jim in Alaska

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Jim, I understand! LOL, why not I guess

Mike, any farm supply will have one, like an equipment dealer, John Deere, Case IH, etc, or the more customer friendly versions, Tractor Supply, Runnings, Bomgaars, etc. A hydralic hose is good for several thousand psi. If you want braided without the outer sheath, Aeroquip is a good brand that you can buy at auto parts stores, or online through the aftermarket hotrod sources, like Summit Racing.

[Mike Heidrick]

Never thought to look for a hydraulic hose and just read your earlier reply for more comprehension! Great idea. We have FF and tractor supply 5 miles away and Deere about 2 miles away. I have about 8 miles of hydraulic line and hose on my 3320 front and rear lines/valves - never thought to use that for air for some reason.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Those 3320's look like nice little tractors, bet you find it very useful. Amazing how many hoses they can jam into a machine isn't it!