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Thread: What length chisel for dovetailing?

  1. #1

    What length chisel for dovetailing?

    I am in the market for chisels and have probably read way too much online already, but one thing I have not read a lot about is chisel length. It seems like shorter would be better for chopping and paring dovetail joints...is this true? What is a good length to use? I am drawn to the shorter Ashley Iles butt chisels that are in the 7.5 inch range but still wonder about the LN's that are around 9 inches in long. It seems that shorter would be better for control while chopping out waste.

    Thoughts? Recommendations? All are appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    lcombs

  2. #2
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    I'm sure you will get as many answers as people who respond. I'll go first - Having used Marples, Narex and Crown Butt chisels in the past (yes, I have too many sets), I tend to return to my first set which is a sparse set of Japenese Chisels. They are not very expensive, but they hold an edge extremely well and they have been the perfect size, length and balance for that task. Another thing that I cannot explain is that when using a mallet for chopping, they seem to drive into the wood like a rail road spike.

  3. #3
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    I really like the size and balance of the LNs, the vintage 750s, japanese chisels, and the veritas chisels. I had a set of AI butt chisels that I thought would be nicely balanced for chopping, but they were a pain when it came time to switch back and forth between chopping and paring like on HBDTs. Nice chisels but I don't recommend them as a go to bench chisel. Having a decent length is nice, and ease of balance when chopping has more to do with the chisels balance then the actual length. If the weight is distributed like on a the chisel types I mentioned balancing for chopping is extra easy. Actaully even though they are longer I think the LN, LVs,vintage 750s, and couple japanese chisel I used were all as nice or nicer balanced for chopping then the AI butt chisels (as always YMMV)
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  4. #4
    I like the Ashley Iles butt chisels for dovetails. They're short so your mallet isn't 12" away from the work, and the lands on the sides are thin so you can reach into the corners. Their half-round dovetail chisels are also nice but more for paring horizontally.

  5. #5
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    What length chisel for dovetailing?
    Long enough to get through the wood and have room for your fingers. It's very much a matter of personal preference. If the chisel does not feel good in your hands then you will shortly be buying a new chisel - again. Handle them if you can. If you can't, buy from a vendor who will let you return them - Lee Valley and Tools for Working Wood quickly come to mind. Don't know what the LN return policy is.

  6. #6
    i don't like the short chisels, but then I tend to hold the chisel edge rather than the handle when I'm chopping out waste (DT, mortise, etc) whereas paring I like some length.

  7. #7
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    I hold the chisel like I hold a pencil... right at the business end,,, when dovetailing. Therefore length is less important than balance.
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  8. #8
    I agree with the AI butt chisels, I've used the half round, they are nice. But the particular way I cut DTs doesn't benefit from having that clearance. the AI butts are finely ground. I use a 1/2" and a 1/4" in the butt pattern along with a 3/4"-1" Buck and a 3/8" AI Mk2 for all the dovetail needs. Sometimes a Witherby 1/4" socket with leather washer cap handle if I'm palm smacking.

    The LN's are finely balanced and sprightly in the smaller sizes, but above the 1/4" I find them clumsy and heavy.
    Trevor Walsh
    TWDesignShop

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach Dillinger View Post
    I hold the chisel like I hold a pencil... right at the business end,,, when dovetailing. Therefore length is less important than balance.
    I use the same technique and find the AI round-backs to be nicely balance and to have a good feel. Not the best choice for all-round bench chisels though.

    Good luck,
    C

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Putnam View Post
    Don't know what the LN return policy is.
    As of today (7 Mar 13),

    LV:
    If, for any reason, you are not completely satisfied, just return your purchase within 3 months by ground mail. You can choose to either exchange the product or receive a complete refund (including our regular shipping charges); we will also refund your return parcel post costs at the ground mail rate.

    Lie-Nielsen:
    Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. If you are dissatisfied for any reason, return the tool within 30 days of purchase for your money back. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available toll-free at 1-800-327-2520 for advice if you have a problem with one of our tools.

    TFWW:
    If you order something and are dissatisfied with it for any reason you can return it for a refund for up to one year after your purchase.


    </PublicServiceAnnouncement>
    Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen or oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by linke combs View Post
    I am in the market for chisels and have probably read way too much online already, but one thing I have not read a lot about is chisel length. It seems like shorter would be better for chopping and paring dovetail joints...is this true? What is a good length to use? I am drawn to the shorter Ashley Iles butt chisels that are in the 7.5 inch range but still wonder about the LN's that are around 9 inches in long. It seems that shorter would be better for control while chopping out waste.

    Thoughts? Recommendations? All are appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    lcombs
    Hi Linke

    For detail work, short chisels provide a good way to get close and be precise. Long chisels, such as parers, enable one to maintain angles better. One could use any chisel to do any work, but in the end it comes down to which chisel provides the best balance in your hand for the work you are doing. If you are focussing on dovetails, then you want to get close up, especially if the tails are skinny. Not too much margin for error. You could hold a longer blade low down, and this will work, but it will not be as balanced as a short blade.

    For paring dovetails I like the Blue Spruce detail chisels. I have 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" specially for tails. I have the same sizes in Koyamaichi dovetail chisels for use with a hammer/genno for when the wood is especially hard. All of these are quite short chisels, about 3" - 4" blades. Note that I quite happily pare dovetails with LV chisels and Stanley 750s as well, but these are more comfortable on the pins than the tails. Of course, you could happily do all the work you want with any of the chisels, but you did ask which was the ideal for a specific task.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
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    Finding a chisel that feels right for a particular job is only one of the reason my rust hunts still include chisels and my accumulation of chisels continues to grow. The other half of the equation is being able to make my own handles for my chisels.

    One could use any chisel to do any work, but in the end it comes down to which chisel provides the best balance in your hand for the work you are doing.
    The LN's are finely balanced and sprightly in the smaller sizes, but above the 1/4" I find them clumsy and heavy.
    I use the same technique and find the AI round-backs to be nicely balance and to have a good feel.
    I hold the chisel like I hold a pencil... right at the business end,,, when dovetailing. Therefore length is less important than balance.
    The balance and feel as perceived by the user in their method(s) of work is an important factor. Since this is a personal aspect, it is best if you can hold the chisels before purchasing. My favorite factory handle for paring chisels are those on some old Buck Brothers socket chisels. It is also the only factory handle I've attempted to duplicate in my chisel handle making efforts at the lathe.

    Handle types.jpg

    The one on the left and the one in the center are Buck Brothers chisels and handles.

    This style is only copied for my Buck Brothers chisels. My other shop made chisels handles are different than this.

    Another consideration in all of this is some chisel styles seem better for different uses. That is why there are so many choices when it comes to chisels.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. Quote Originally Posted by linke combs View Post
    I am in the market for chisels and have probably read way too much online already, but one thing I have not read a lot about is chisel length. It seems like shorter would be better for chopping and paring dovetail joints...is this true? What is a good length to use? I am drawn to the shorter Ashley Iles butt chisels that are in the 7.5 inch range but still wonder about the LN's that are around 9 inches in long. It seems that shorter would be better for control while chopping out waste.

    Thoughts? Recommendations? All are appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    lcombs
    Your instinct is right, shorter chisels are better for chopping dovetails.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Silicon Valley, CA
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    Agree with above -- balance is important.
    I like the LN chisels quite well.
    Koyamaichi next.

    I also really like the Czeck Edge chisel I have... but looks like those aren't currently available.

    Matt

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    East Brunswick, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Stanford View Post
    Your instinct is right, shorter chisels are better for chopping dovetails.
    One reason why Japanese chisels work so well for this task.

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