Insulation, most bang for the buck.

[Joe Hillmann]

I am re-doing/modeling a building. It is 100 feet long and twenty feet wide. I am patching the drywall so if I don't insulate the walls now I never will.

The walls are, from the outside in, stucco,cinder block, 2x4 wall cavity, lath and plaster, 3/4 insulation board and then drywall on the inside. The ceiling also only has 3 or four inches of blown in insulation. My plan was to put blown in insulation in the walls now when I am remodeling and then insulate the attic as I can afford to.

My question is, is it worth putting insulation in the walls? I wonder because it is only a 3 1/2 cavity and it already has the insulation board between the sheetrock and plaster. I think that I might see much more savings by putting insulation in the attic now and skipping the walls altogether. But if I don't insulate the walls now when things are apart I never will.

The building is 20x 100. About 60feet of one long wall is attached to the neighbors heated space so I don't plan to insulate that section.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I would insulate wall and ceiling while it's handy.

IMHO, the best bang for the buck and the quickest return on money spent for reducing energy costs is experienced by insulating.

[Joe Hillmann]

After doing some reading I am now concerned that since there is no vapor barrier in the walls if I insulate it will cause water problems. The more I read about it the more concerns I have.

[Mel Fulks]

The blown cellulose is said to be good for those applications since it packs tightly and doesn't leave any voids for air circulation.

[Joe Hillmann]

From what I have been reading and from what a contractor told me, Insulation works with the vapor barrier. The vapor barrier prevents WARM moisture from getting into the insulation that then condenses as it gets closer to the outside. So if you insulate sidewalls without a vapor barrier it is very likely to cause water problems in houses that never had water problems before.

[Mel Fulks]

Unless you are going to have a building full of saunas,he is wrong. Some types of insulation require vapor barrier because of low density that allows air movement. The cellulose packs tightly .You could easily make up a small section of wall and test in a window. There are some very nutty things written about insulation ,saw one article where writer seemed to be denying that hot air rises.

[Mark Rakestraw]

I know they make vapor barrier paint that you could use on walls. Not sure of its efficacy, but would be worth investigating. If it's a shop space where you won't be boiling pots of pasta and taking warm, steamy showers it probably isn't a huge concern anyway.

[Jim German]

Blow in some closed cell foam, it acts as a vapor barrier as well as insulation.

[Mel Fulks]

Foam is good too .I think it costs more.

[phil harold]

The walls are, from the outside in, stucco,cinder block, 2x4 wall cavity, lath and plaster, 3/4 insulation board and then drywall on the inside. The ceiling also only has 3 or four inches of blown in insulation. My plan was to put blown in insulation in the walls now when I am remodeling and then insulate the attic as I can afford to.

My question is, is it worth putting insulation in the walls? I wonder because it is only a 3 1/2 cavity and it already has the insulation board between the sheetrock and plaster. I think that I might see much more savings by putting insulation in the attic now and skipping the walls altogether. But if I don't insulate the walls now when things are apart I never will.

what type of insulation board? it it is the white bead board it is usless
if pink or blue is good
yellow with foil, so so

quick and dirty glue 1" foam over all existing and qlue and screw rock over it
if you need hang stuff of the wall foam furr out with 1x3 and then rock


I am hearing foam being blowed in this would be best if closed cell,
you could blow in cellulose but I dont like it touching the block wall, could wick more moisture into the cavity...

vapor issue are a two way street vapor/ moisture coming thru the stucco and block and moisture trying to get out of the building

putting the 1" foam on the walls will work to stop this and the condensation that causes the problems


the ceiling is a cause of heat loss and gain so,
I would make sure that is addressed too soon

sealing drafts is another way to save heating and cooling

Are you renting?
shop, store, or house?

[Joe Hillmann]

Can you get foam in without pulling down the Sheetrock?

I just climbed into the attic about a foot all the way along one wall the insulation is pulled back. I am sure a lot of heat goes up there.

[Peter Aeschliman]

That is probably because you need to make sure to allow air to circulate in your attic. It needs to come in through the eaves and up through the ridge vents. If the insulation is pushed all the way up to the corner, it will block the air circulation and you'll get condensation problems. So I wouldn't push the insulation all the way to the corner if I were you.

Closed cell foam sprayed into the walls is the way to go for sure. I've seen them drill holes in certain spots in the walls to spray it in. you just have to patch the holes when you're done.

[Joe Hillmann]

I was renting it for the last four years and was then renting out about 2/3 of the up stairs to a thrift store. Now I bought it. Originally moving in was going to be a short term thing. Just throw up a couple walls for bedrooms and put in a shower but I also bought the lot behind me so we can have a yard and now we are planing to live here long term so I am willing to put some time and money into making it a home rather than a place to live.

I think sealing drafts and insulting the attic along with ceiling fans in the area with 11 foot ceilings will be the best way to keep energy costs down.

The place used to be a funeral home.

[Mel Fulks]

Don't know how " insulting " the attic is going to help....You need a more alert SPELL CHECK

[Joe Hillmann]

Mel, it is just like a person if you yell at it enough it may do what you want.