What's the deal with lacquer!!!?

[Barry Wixey]

We recently purchased a new dining room table ( I know, I could have made one...) after receiving it we noticed that there were large square areas on the surface that were shinier than the rest of the table so we did not sign off on it and the outfit sent out a repair person to fix for us. He seemed quite good and explained the finish being used on all new furniture like this was lacquer now and that you could not let any plastic, cork, rubber, or other materials lay on top or it would do this. He speculated that it had been shipped on styrofoam blocks in error.

He proceeded to steel wool the surface and then carefully spray it down very lightly with lacquer thinner. It turned out beautiful. When asked about how careful we had to be with wet glasses and such, he told us it would leave rings and to be very careful and we should always use a cloth table cloth.

I don't know about you folks, but we use our table a lot and would prefer to eat on the nice wood finish and just wipe it down with water and not worry. How can I re-finish this and what would I use to make it a useable and enjoyable. He mentioned "bar Lacquer?"

Thanks for your feedback

[Steve Schoene]

Solvent based lacquer--which your appears to be since it apparently re-dissolved on the surface when lacquer thinner was applied, has been used for decades and is now becoming fairly rare on new furniture. Today, catalyzed finishes, which are much more durable have become more common. Lacquer has been very successful, but remember as you were growing up, the standard routine for caring for furniture called for coasters and placemats. That would be necessary on your old fashioned lacquer. I suppose the repairman was referring to a catalyzed lacquer or conversion varnish when he referred to "bar lacquer." That's not a product you can use yourself without a commercial scale spray booth. What you could do is to apply and oil based varnish. Choices would be Pratt & Lambert 38, Waterlox Gloss, or Behlen Rock Hard. All of these could be applied over the existing lacquer finish. I would clean thoroughly--with mineral spirits and with a few drops of dishwashing detergent in water. (Don't leave the surface wet.) Then, though not absolutely necessary, I would scuff sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper using a sanding block. It get a professional quality surface you would need to apply the varnish (probably 2 coats would be enough) and then rub out the surface to remove any defects and dust nibs.

[Rich Engelhardt]

What you could do is to apply and oil based varnish. Choices would be Pratt & Lambert 38, Waterlox Gloss, or Behlen Rock Hard

Just sort of an FYI.
It appears Behlen has gone over to using a urethane formulation.

[Barry Wixey]

Thanks Steve and Rich! This just the kind of advice I am looking for. My first thought was urethane, but the repair guy said that wouldn't stick. I have had great luck with oil based urethane on other projects. Your understanding is that oil based varnish (urethane ) would have no problem over lacquer?

[Tony Joyce]

If you have the ability to spray you can use a precatalyzed lacquer. Readily available and fairly easy to apply and durable.

Tony

[John TenEyck]

There are WB pre cat lacquers and conversion varnishes now, too, which you could spray safely. Otherwise, I'd use a wiping varnish, which you could do with any of the ones recommended above. Anything but a brush for me.

John