Slits in Side Panels

[Glenn Samuels]

African Mahogany.jpg

I am beginning to build a 1780's style chest on chest. I thought that I was getting "genuine South American Mahogany" but found out that it is "African Mahogany". I have tried to make the best of it but now I am not so sure. There are these slits in a few places (this is a side panel approximately 20" x 30")and I am not sure how to deal with them. I plan on using shellac and wax as my final coat so I am concerned what will effect the final surface. CA glue? Hide Glue with tiny shavings?

Any suggestions would be helpful including starting again with new wood. Since I am just starting, I don't want to continually have this happen. Is this a common problem with African Mahogany? Thanks in advance.

[Phil Thien]

Those are surface checks, they are a result of drying. Basically, the surface and the core of the board dried at different rates.

That lumber should have been sold to you at a pretty deep discount.

[Mel Fulks]

Some here find the African 'mahogany ' a good value, I don't . I agree with Phil that a discount would have been in order ,but defects of that type are so common in that wood that I haven't seen much give. FWIW vertical grain AM is usually cheaper than flat sawn because true mahogany is usually flat sawn. Sometimes the vertical grain AM is referred to as 'ribbon striped'. The defects you see are unlikely to get much worse , in use you will see the piece ....all at one time,and not worry about small blemishes.

[Mel Fulks]

Glenn,if it is possible ,I would try to use true mahogany for the drawer fronts.

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Mel,

I was thinking of veneering them to give it a better look. Never done veneering before but what the heck!

[glenn bradley]

Ouch. I'm afraid those boards would not go in any "show" position on a piece for me. Can you get some value out of them for structural use and use an alternate material for your exposed areas?

[Glenn Samuels]

What could I have done differently to avoid the checking?

1. I started with 16/4 wood. My workshop is usually 64 degrees and the humidity is controlled thru the AC unit.
2. I slicked off boards at 1 1/8" thick and let them sit for a week.
3. I then ran them through the jointer and planer to 7/8" and then waited another week.
4. Finally brought them down to 3/4'" with the planer and then hand planed.

What step am I missing?

[Mel Fulks]

Don't think you are missing any thing but a good vendor . Most of the time the cracks are actually in plane sight even when the wood is still rough. I just wouldn't buy anymore.