bathroom vanity - dilemma...

[Jared Martin]

So my wife and I are remodeling our guest and master bath...took things down to the studs and moved some plumbing around (hired that out) and are in the process of putting things back together. The master bath is going to have to have a custom vanity built (which is fine - I'm excited to build one) as its placement is going to be along the short wall of our (roughly) 10x5 bathroom and a standard 60" vanity won't work....its going to be around 58" wide (double sink). So, the plumbers were here to move a few drains and stub out for the new double vanity. What they ended up doing is stubbing out the two hot and cold taps from the back wall and the two drains out each side wall. They asked me if that was ok and, at the time, I was like "sure, no problem." However, now that I'm getting closer to building the vanity, I realize that I'm going to be in trouble if I want to try and slide a single vanity into that alcove.

Do I build it in three sections (left, right, drawers) and install the left and right and then slide the drawer section in between? Do I cut out a horizontal (or vertical) piece from the side sections so the whole vanity can slide back (or down) over the drains and then fill in with a patch?

Rough sketchup pic attached. Let the brainstorming begin!

vanity plumbing.jpg

Jared

[Von Bickley]

Jared,
I think I would just cut a horizontal slot on each end and slide the vanity in. I don't know that I would bother with patching the slot, nobody will ever see it.

[Bob Lang]

I'd do three boxes on a separate base. Level the base and scribe the two outer cabinets to the wall, leaving space in the middle for the third cabinet. Much easier than trying to wrestle one cabinet in, and the time you save will more than make up for the little more you'll spend on materials.

Bob Lang

[Jerry Miner]

I see three basic options:

1. Make the cabinet as three units---but you still have to navigate pipes in two walls--so one option is to eliminate the back in the sink bases, which would allow you to cut a hole in the end panel and slide the cabinet to the side to install.
You could, if desired, install a back from the inside after installation.

2. Cut a slot for the drain pipes and patch or not ---you could add a full side panel after install, if you wish, to hide the slot, but be sure to figure out your door hinging system ahead of time.

3. Cut the drain pipes back to let the cabinet slide past, then let the plumber add on to them after cabinet installation. (ABS, right? Ask your plumber, but it should be pretty easy to extend the drain line if you give him a big enough hole for a coupling.)

[Jared Martin]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm leaning towards building three sections. With the design, it should be relatively simple to do since it should be easy to break it up into three sections. I may play around with option 3 that Jerry suggested. I have some plumbing fixtures/couplers and ABS glue. I just want to make sure I don't cut it off too close as the drywall and everything is already up.

Thanks again. I'll post pictures once I have it done. And it'll be a while - two bathrooms at once doing it all yourself (well, most, sans plumbing) on weekends and evenings is a time sink for sure! It'll be worth it though in the end!

[Matt Meiser]

I'd cut the stubbed out drains off flush with the walls then use a coupling and add them back after the cabinet is in.

[Pat Barry]

The more I think about it i like Bob's idea. The only downside to it is also a benefit - double thick walls in-between cabinet sections. You might need the space anyway due to door openings, hinges and potential interaction with what seem to be drawer openings in the center section.

[Jared Martin]

The more I think about it i like Bob's idea. The only downside to it is also a benefit - double thick walls in-between cabinet sections. You might need the space anyway due to door openings, hinges and potential interaction with what seem to be drawer openings in the center section.

Yes, that was my first concern too (double thick walls in an area (drawers) that are already pretty narrow). However, I suppose I could use thinner material on the two "inside" sides of the door cabinet boxes and the two walls of the drawer cabinets to have an end result of a single thickness divider (or close to it). I was going to do full inset doors and drawers.

[Kim Howarter]

Hi Jared,

I faced the same problem 3 years ago in my bathroom remodel. I had 69.5" to fill between 2 walls vand came up with a design like yours. I did mine without a back and in one piece. This made the construction easy and simple, just a face frame, support boards, and prefinished maple plywood for the bottom and 2 sides. The same 4 drawers in the middle sized to fit my wife and daughters curlers, hair dryers, etc. I made the 2 under sink areas into pull out drawers instead of doors, much easier to get stuff in and out. The front on these 2 drawers was made just like a door, but has a center mullion that gives it a 2 door look. I used poplar for the drawers, Baltic birch for the bottoms, and then attached the boxes to the fronts. Made the sides start at the top and curve down to about 4" high sides. I put vertical supports in to support the drawer slides. Used 3 24" square black granite tiles for the countertop and 2 vessel sinks on top. I can send some pictures if you are interested. Hope this helps.

Kim

[Jared Martin]

Thanks Kim. Yes, photos would be great! I am always looking for different ways to do things and would be interested in seeing how you tackled it.

[Jay Jolliffe]

Cut the drains, drill a hole in the side large enough for a coupling, slide the whole unit in place, glue coupling & drain stub back on

[Kim Howarter]

Sorry for my delay in posting the pictures. Below are some pictures of the vanity that I built. You can see that it is open inside other than the supports added for the center drawers which is shown in the middle picture. The fuzzy picture is of the drawer construction that I used under the 2 ends where the vessel sinks go. It is poplar with Baltic birch plywood for the bottom. I just screwed the front panel to the drawer. My drain and supply connections are in the rear.

Any other questions, let me know.

Kim

IMG_0017.jpgIMG_0022.jpgIMG_0037.jpgIMG_0039.jpgIMG_0054.jpg

[Jared Martin]

Well, it has been a LOOONG road, but we finally have both of our bathrooms complete! Picture time for the new vanity! Thanks for all of the advice. I ended up just cutting a slot on each end and sliding the vanity into place. It is barely noticeable and I can always plug the slot later (I'm tired of dealing with this project ).

vanity.jpg vanity2.jpg after2.jpg

[Ethan Melad]

I did a similar vanity a couple years ago in my own house, but with the double sink cab in the center and narrow drawer cabs on either end. I did it in 3 pieces on a separate base (so much easier than leveling an integral base) and added scribe strips on either end to match the wall. mine is frameless, so i didnt have to worry about the "double wall" where the cabinets met.


edit: didn't notice his was an update to an older thread...