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Thread: Removing Shellac and TransTint from Walnut

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Fort Collins, CO
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    Removing Shellac and TransTint from Walnut

    Hello. I'm looking for some advice/guidance to remove shellac and TransTint from some walnut bed-side tables. I have started to remove the shellac using DNA, however, as many have found, the process to remove four coats requires a lot of DNA and paper-towels. I was curious if I should switch to a citrus based paint stripper to speed the process along? Does anyone have any recommendations (brands) or experience using this? Most of my research led me to home refinishing, which I suppose isn't really much different, but was hoping to solicit some advice here.

    Additionally, the Transtint I mixed up was a bit darker than I had hoped, and instead of stopping and remixing like I should have, I convinced myself it would work and proceeded to apply the shellac. I figured that since I am removing the shellac I should just correct my initial mistake. I have read that bleach is excellent at removing TransTint, however, I am worried that it would effect the natural color of the walnut.

    Thanks in advance,
    Jeff

  2. #2
    I've started using this stuff for removing old finish from guitars, and it works GREAT.

    http://www.franmar.com/paint-removal...-urethane.html

    You can get it at Woodcraft, I think. There's also a degreaser/rinsing product that they suggest to go along with it. I picked that up at a marine supply place. I'm guessing that distilled water might work too.

    As far as the transtint, I don't know of any good way to remove it. You can get a lot of it out with water and a rag...just rub and rub and rub, but it will NEVER all come out. Lightening it up like this may be sufficient to get you something acceptable, though. Worst case is that you have to sand it back a bit. You will have to sand it anyway after all this stripping and damp ragging, so it very little extra work to just sand a bit more until the color's gone.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Fort Collins, CO
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    Thanks for the recommendation, John. Unfortunately the closest Woodcraft is about 2 hours each way. I will keep it in mind though. Seems like a relatively safe and environmentally friendly solution. Maybe I can call Franmar tomorrow and check on local distribution options.

    Jeff

  4. #4
    Lacquer thinner will dissolve shellac faster than alcohol. I too have some shellac to remove, this was suggested to me, and it works nicely. To make it faster and more efficient, I put a couple of layers of paper towel over the shellac to be removed, soak with lacquer thinner, and let it set until you can just rub off the shellac with an abrasive pad. I'm not sure about this, but I seem to recall reading that Clorox bleach will remove or lighten dyes but will not affect the wood. Please don't do this without some verification though - I've never done it, never thought about doing it, but have some vague memory of this from somewhere. Good luck. BTW, no idea if this would interest you, but I've been finishing walnut with garnet shellac and a drop of red mahogany trans-tint dye in the shellac. I'm getting a beautiful warm dark amber color. BLO first, then pumice/BLO as a grain-filler, then shellac.

    Phil
    "Men never commit evil so fully and joyfully as when they do it for religious convictions"- Pascal, 1623-1662

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Horsham, PA
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    1,474
    For large flat surfaces I like to use a card scraper and save the chemicals for the more detailed areas.
    I was sad because I had no shoes,
    Then I saw a man who had no feet
    ================================
    If you do today what no one else will,
    You'll do tomorrow what no one else can

  6. #6
    A marine store said thay had a lady who cleaned teak with tide powder. Tried it and it really worked! Might try it on walnut to help clean and degrease.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
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    I've never heard the Tide recommendation...Wouldn't imagine it would harm the wood in anyway. Wonder if it would help get some of the TransTint out? Might have to give it a go this weekend (on some scrap first of course).

  8. #8
    I've redone a variety of wood trim and a couple pieces of furniture that had old shellac finishes. I use a heat gun on a low setting with a putty knife, keeping it moving and take off most of the shellac. Then I use those woven plastic scrubbers - pot scrubbers? - and gently rub with alcohol. Give it a while and very gently go over it with a fine grit by hand. It works great for me. The scrubbers sort of scoop the residue. I buy them at the dollar store.


    A dresser that the li'l woman dragged home a long time ago had been partially stripped, so I went ahead and did the whole thing. It is a whole lot of work IMO.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Fort Collins, CO
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    So after playing with some citrus based stripper, ammonia and DNA (not together) to varying degrees of success, I have started the painstaking process of planing, scraping, and sanding. It's actually sort of surprising how little you have to remove to get below the layer of dyed wood.

    Thanks for all the advice. As usual, the best solution is probably the most time consuming and labor intensive.

  10. #10
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    Dec 2010
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    Long overdue update... as mentioned above, I ended up sanding/scraping/planing the finish off. Took some effort but I think it was the only way to truly get back to base zero. Thanks again to all who took the time to offer advice and encouragement.

    Regards,
    Jeff

    _MG_3184.jpg

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Southport, NC
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    The best remover for any type of finish is a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. It will not evaporate fast like alcohol and will remove shellac in a single application. Follow the directions on the can..

    Chemical paint strippers will not remove dye stains well at all. The way to remove dye stains is to first use the chemial stripper and then use a chlorine bleach to remove the dye coloring. You can use a fresh bottle of Clorox but it's quite slow. Better is to use swimming pool chlorine. First remove all the prior paint stripper then flood on the bleach solution. Keep it wet for 30-60 minutes and then see how it looks. You may not be able to get all the color out but most should be gone.
    Howie.........

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    OR -

    60g - 80g - 100g - 120g - 150g - 180g and refinish.

    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

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