To spring or not...M12V

[Warren White]

I have an Hitachi M12V which I use both free-hand and on my router table. The questions are: What are the advantages/disadvantages of removing the plunge springs, and if the +'s out weigh the -'s, how does one do that?

As I crank the know to raise and lower the router in the table, I am working against the springs, but I don't want to make a mistake by just ripping them out.

Any and all advice is welcome...

Thanks,
Warren

[Tim Morton]

If you are using it as a "plunge" router you will need to keep the springs in. I have the springs out, but I only use it in my router table. I have heard of some people removing one of the springs, but I think you should keep both springs in until you decide that the best thing to do is have TWO routers

[Don Abele]

Warren, here is a link to woodshopdemos and the preparations he made for using the M12V. I also did the same thing when I bought one earlier this year and must say that the modifications have been an improvement. Of course, this all goes without saying that the router can only be used in a table afterwards.

Hope this helps: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-3.htm

Be well,

Doc

[Charlie Plesums]

The woodshopdemo also removes the ears on the router.

The "ears" do not need to be removed from the M12V in order to use panel raising bits, as the demo suggests. Although it appears that it would be a lot easier to change bits without those ears, I have raised many panels using that router in a home-made table without removing the ears. Once the ears are gone, they cannot be replaced, and you cannot use the router with a guide bushing.

[Steven Herbin]

The major reason for removing the ears is to be able to use a bent wrench from above the table to loosen and tighten bits. This is a Marc Sommerfeld idea (he swears by the M12V -- it's the only router for him until something better comes along). I did it and the convenience of having the bit changes above the table is not to be scoffed at. I have this router dedicated to table use.

There are aftermarket kits for using inserts. So this isn't a concern.

I didn't remove the springs. I installed a RouterRaizer to be able to adjust the bit hieght / depth from above the table. The Router Raizer people recommended leaving the springs in the router and it really is a big improvement to how the whole package works.

If I need another router for handheld, I will get another M12V, install the RouterRaizer and otherwise leave it alone.

Steve.

[Scott Loven]

I cut the ears of on mine, and purchased a 2nd base to use for plunge routing.
Scott

[JayStPeter]

I removed ears and springs. But, mine is dedicated to the table. Springs are easy enough to remove and replace. So, try it both ways.

Jay

[Warren White]

If you are using it as a "plunge" router you will need to keep the springs in. I have the springs out, but I only use it in my router table. I have heard of some people removing one of the springs, but I think you should keep both springs in until you decide that the best thing to do is have TWO routers

Thanks Tim. That is what I suspected. I do have more than one router, but since this is the only one with soft start and variable speed, I prefer it. So, I need to use it both ways.

Warren

[Warren White]

Warren, here is a link to woodshopdemos and the preparations he made for using the M12V. I also did the same thing when I bought one earlier this year and must say that the modifications have been an improvement. Of course, this all goes without saying that the router can only be used in a table afterwards.

Hope this helps: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-3.htm

Be well,

Doc

Doc,
I reviewed the link, and I was amazed at the courage it must take to take a saw to the base of the router! I really liked the extension he put on for the collet lock.

Since I will be using this both ways, I don't believe I will cut the ears off. I really like being able to use it with them on. I have used a raised panel cutter with them on, and it is my largest bit thus far.

Thanks for the link, Doc. It was very interesting.

Warren

[Warren White]

The woodshopdemo also removes the ears on the router.

The "ears" do not need to be removed from the M12V in order to use panel raising bits, as the demo suggests. Although it appears that it would be a lot easier to change bits without those ears, I have raised many panels using that router in a home-made table without removing the ears. Once the ears are gone, they cannot be replaced, and you cannot use the router with a guide bushing.

\

Charlie,
I too have used my panel raising bits without removing the "ears" and it worked just fine. I certainly have whacked my fingers a number of times trying to loosen the collet from under the table, so I bought a bent wrench which makes the job easier.

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

Warren

[Warren White]

The major reason for removing the ears is to be able to use a bent wrench from above the table to loosen and tighten bits. This is a Marc Sommerfeld idea (he swears by the M12V -- it's the only router for him until something better comes along). I did it and the convenience of having the bit changes above the table is not to be scoffed at. I have this router dedicated to table use.

There are aftermarket kits for using inserts. So this isn't a concern.

I didn't remove the springs. I installed a RouterRaizer to be able to adjust the bit hieght / depth from above the table. The Router Raizer people recommended leaving the springs in the router and it really is a big improvement to how the whole package works.

If I need another router for handheld, I will get another M12V, install the RouterRaizer and otherwise leave it alone.

Steve.

Hi Steve,
My budget won't allow for another M12V, although that would be nice. The adjustment on the M12V works well under the table, but it is a bit tedious. An above the table raising device of some sort would be great, but again, the old budget kicks in.

I did buy a bent wrench at the last wood show, and if you move the router most of the way up, it works just fine. I may trim it a bit and see if it would make it more useful, but it has already saved me many an under the table pinched knuckle .

Thanks for the help!
Warren

[John Gregory]

The 12MV is a great table router in my opinion. I removed the ears and just recently the springs. I use a raising device from woodpeckers.com and I love my set up. The next change in this area is to build a router table wing for my TS and have the router mounted there. That is needed to make room for the new Performax 10-20 sander I ordered (pre gloat)

[Warren White]

I cut the ears of on mine, and purchased a 2nd base to use for plunge routing.
Scott

Thanks for your input, Scott. I appreciate all who took the time to respond.

Warren

[Warren White]

I removed ears and springs. But, mine is dedicated to the table. Springs are easy enough to remove and replace. So, try it both ways.

Jay

Jay,
Since mine is used both ways, and as a plunge router freehand, I guess I will just leave it as is. I do appreciate your comments.

This is really a great place to learn! Thanks to all who have helped me.

Warren

[Warren White]

)%???ohn Gregory]The 12MV is a great table router in my opinion. I removed the ears and just recently the springs. I use a raising device from woodpeckers.com and I love my set up. The next change in this area is to build a router table wing for my TS and have the router mounted there. That is needed to make room for the new Performax 10-20 sander I ordered (pre gloat)[/QUOTE]

Hi John,
It sounds like you are room-challenged like I am!! I bought a Bench Dog router table insert for my table saw and really like it. I recently purchased a Performax 22-44 and have enoyed using it. Great sander, and very useful.

Good luck on building your own wing. I certainly like mine, and I am sure you will not only enjoy the fruits of your labor, but building it as well!

Best wishes,
Warren