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Thread: Lenox Die Master Bi Metal Blades

  1. #61
    Jim,
    I have a 1/2 inch blade for my big saw (Laguna 16HD 150 inch blade), but have never used it. I do all my circle cutting with my smaller saw and a 1/2 inch by .035 thick by 3 tpi blade. I can see that with a smaller blade, it might want to wander. I prefer more 'heavy duty' with all my tools because I am rough on them. A 1/2 inch blade will cut a 6 inch diameter circle no problem. I have never used the circle guide things. I tried a home made one, and found that all of my bowls are different sizes, and I would spend far more time setting up than actually cutting. On my big saw, I use the Lenox 1 1/4 blade with teeth about 3/4 inch apart (can't remember the specific model). This one is used for cutting slabs with parallel sides. Then I scribe a circle with a compass. Not too hard to follow by eye. I have never had a blank mount perfectly centered, well, maybe a few times, but it was an accident. When your slab has parallel sides, it is easy to cut circles on a smaller saw. If my blank is higher than 6 inches, I nibble off the corners with my big saw. I have found it easier to slab if I take the log section and cut the ends square first, then stand the slab up, mark the thickness with some strips of plywood, then cut the slab with it standing on end. More stable that way than cutting on the side, unless I ever make a sled. Only problem with standing it on end is the inside of the saw gets big hair balls in it. Not too much trouble to pull them out as no dust collector will pull them all out.

    robo hippy
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 05-10-2013 at 5:31 PM.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Markham View Post
    Maybe it is time for me to reconsider what I am using for resawing. Anyone know of an excellent blade for resawing, that isn't the Resaw King.
    I mentioned this already in the thread but I know it is getting long so I'll reiterate my experience.

    I have a MM20 BS that takes a 14' blade. I have a Lenox Trimaster but I bent it one time...had it fixed...but it has never cut quite the same nor as cleanly but it still does all right. I'm not sure if you ever watch Woodworks with David Marks but I studied his shows and I think the blade he used on his big blue bandsaw for resawing and cutting veneers was a Lenox Diemaster2 Bimetal. It was 1/2" wide, 6 tpi, and hook style and I was very impressed how well it cut on my bandsaw. I ended up using it more than my Trimaster as it actually has a thinner kerf. I'm always on the look out for a resaw blade than can yield the most veneers from a plank of wood. It is a balance of kerf and smoothness of cut (that has to later be sanded x amount) that I seek. This blade is reasonable cost as I paid around $40 IIRC. It also has lasted quite a long time so I'm impressed all over!
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  3. #63
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    I made a feeding mistake and have a 1/16" twist in the blade. Before I buy a new one, can this be corrected?

    This is the 1/2" Lennox Diemaster 2.

    Thanks
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  4. #64
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    No, Brian, your feeding mistake cannot be corrected. The damage is don.... Oh, wait, you're asking if the damage to the blade can now be corrected...gotcha. How am I supposed to know?

    I THINK it can, but I'm not sure of the fix. Question: is the twist along a long stretch of the blade or is it confined to maybe 10" or so? Again, not that I know how to fix it, but maybe that will help to get you a fix...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  5. #65
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    Hi, Mike. I just checked and there appears to be just one twist, and the blade straightens itself within about 8". I was thinking about putting a wood hand-screw vise above and below the twist and nudging it into place.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  6. #66
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    So, there is about an 8" section that got a twist? And the rest is straight? I'd think you (or at least someone could) straighten that out. But getting it just right might be a bit of a chore. I use the same blades and know they aren't cheap. So, I feel you pain and understand your desire to straighten it.

    BTW, can I take a stab at what happened? Did you do this with the blade "stuck" in a piece of wood and, with the BS off, tried to wiggle the blade out...bending it? Or did you somehow do this with the lathe running?

    BTW2, you might be interested in a sharpening technique that WORKS! I was told about it and was skeptical, but since I don't have any band saw blade sharpening service nearby, and sending them out costs abut 60% of a new blade, I thought I'd give it a whirl... You get a chainsaw sharpening stone (for a Dremmel or similar tool) and just follow the contour of the blade/teeth. Google it. It actually works. Granted, not knowing how well it would work, I was banging my head against the wall with boredom by the time I was done doing the blade on my 20" Delta. But it did a fantastic job and the blade cut almost like new. If you can't find the video on how to do it, let me know...
    I drink, therefore I am.

  7. #67
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    I regret to say I repeated an error and tried to cut a round blank in the same direction as cutting across a log. I was trying to clean it up and it hit and rolled. It did not crimp on the blade, but the spin bent the blade. Maybe I will learn never to do that cut.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  8. #68
    You might be able to do it with 2 adjustable wrenches. Twist gently in either direction. I would check very carefully for any cracks, both with fingers and maybe with magnifying glass. I have broken a number of blades. It is, shall we say, rather loud on the big saw, and part of it gets accordioned.

    Maybe I am lucky for sharpening. My 150 inch blades are about $5 each to get sharpened, and I take 5 or more blades in at a time.

    robo hippy

  9. #69
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    You are VERY lucky, Reed. I think the one place I know I can take them to wants about $25-30 per blade for my 20"!!!

    Yeah, Brian, NOW I know what you did. I've done that trying to cut 4" pvc before. I just threw the blade away. I tried (admittedly halfheartedly) to straighten it to no avail. Lesson learned.
    I drink, therefore I am.

  10. #70
    I have used one blade from them for green wood. Used it for generic cutting too.

  11. #71
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    Resurrecting this 3 year old thread. My Lennox Diemaster 2 (1/2" x .035, 3 tpi hook) dulled and I put my previous 1/2" Timberwolf (with 4 or 5 tpi) blade back on. There is no comparison. I was cutting some sycamore and the blade wandered all over the place, and left bad ridges.

    So I just ordered a couple of new Diemaster 2's and look forward to smoother cutting again.

    I also re-read the thread and saw that I could get these resharpened. Thanks.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  12. #72
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    packardwoodworks.com

  13. #73
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    Brian I was looking at the Diemaster blades. Were your hook or skip tooth? I can t seem to find hook in wood bi-metal?
    Part number?

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Tibbetts View Post
    Brian I was looking at the Diemaster blades. Were your hook or skip tooth? I can t seem to find hook in wood bi-metal?
    Part number?
    Oregon Industrial
    I don't see a part number on the receipt. It is a hook tooth. But the path to find it is under Metal Cutting / Bi-metal.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  15. #75
    There are bimetal blades for cutting metal, and bimetal blades for cutting wood. Pretty sure mine are skip tooth. Ellis saw blades, which are popular over at WTR have only the metal ones. I think the Lennox blades can be ordered through Grainger or McMaster Carr. Some saw shops will have them, especially if they sell bandsaw blades to the portable mill people.

    robo hippy

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