New Jessem doweling jig is pretty awesome

[Phil Thien]

I had a project I was working on last night and put the NEW (less expensive) Jessem dowel jig to the test. The one discussed in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196292

When I first received this jig (I bought mine from Bill Huber, aficionado of dowel jigs), I glued a bit of sandpaper to the face to minimize any sort of slipping. I did a little testing, thought "that works pretty great," and then got busy finishing a bunch of other stuff. [Okay, it isn't finished, but I've gotten further.]

Well last night I needed to make a quick frame from some SYP. The purpose of the frame was to help support a Craftsman tool chest on the stretchers of my bench.

I thought this would be the perfect application for the new dowel jig.

I had wondered whether it would be possible to use the jig without clamping (just hand pressure). The frame I was making didn't use a lot of materials, I figured if it didn't come out well I could just do it again and clamp the jig the 2nd time around.

I placed the 3/8" aluminum locator pin in the first hole on the jig, and used that as a stop against the edge of the board I was drilling. Holding the face of the jig and the locator pin (as my references) against the board with just hand pressure, I drilled my first hole. Then I moved the locator pin to the hole I had just drilled, and finished-up the other holes. I actually had to move the locator pin a 2nd time, as it would have interfered with the stop on the drill bit (I may modify the locator pin with a notch so I don't have to move it twice).

It goes REAL fast. Almost as fast as using my biscuit jointer.

And everything aligned PERFECTLY. The edges and faces are so precisely aligned that no sanding was required, except to clean-up a bit of glue squeeze-out I missed.

I suspect I'll still clamp when there is a lot at stake (like expensive walnut pieces that already required a lot of machining).

But I'm not sure how it could possibly come out any better.

[Jim Mackell]

Any chance of a photo?

[Phil Thien]

Any chance of a photo?

Sure. Let me know what you want to see and I'll snap a picture or two.

[Jim Mackell]

Couple of pieces of scrap. One with the locater pin in place to mark the second. I'm just having trouble picturing the setup.

[Nathan Birrell]

Sigh. Waiting for mine. Ordered about two months ago from a local place, and it has been two months of being back-ordered by Jessem. Looks like it will be worth the wait...

-Nate

[Phil Thien]

Couple of pieces of scrap. One with the locater pin in place to mark the second. I'm just having trouble picturing the setup.

Oh got it.

I'm attaching two pics. You can see the locator pin in the left hole of the jig. I pull the jig RIGHT until the locator pin hits the end of the board I'm drilling. and then drill the hole where you see the drill bit.

Next, I remove the locator pin, and shove it into the hole I just drilled. Now I drill the other holes in my stock.

Does that make sense?

Also including a picture of the frame, and the tool chest. Have to move an outlet on my bench so I can scoot the chest back just a little bit more.

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other Q's.

[Phil Thien]

Oh, BTW, when using the locator pin as an edge reference, I computed optimum stock widths for dowel holes equally spaced in stock. So if I use 1-7/8" stock, this method will give me two equally spaced holes (along the width). If I use 2-5/8", I can get three equally spaced holes. And if I use 3-3/8", I can four.

It is important, though, to always mark the edge you used as a reference, b/c even though the holes LOOK equally spaced, they aren't perfectly equally spaced.

So basically, the stock is growing in width in 3/4" increments. And if you want wider stock, you can use the locator pin to adjust the jig.

Of course, holes needn't be equally-spaced, but...

I am sometimes insane.

[Bill Huber]

I am sure glade you like it and it does look like you have it a handle on it very well.

Now you need to make you bit collar adjusting tool....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...m+doweling+jig

[Phil Thien]

I am sure glade you like it and it does look like you have it a handle on it very well.

Now you need to make you bit collar adjusting tool....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...m+doweling+jig

Okay, I have to study that some more.

Are there any plans for it?

[Ole Anderson]

I bought the DowelMax Jr. about a week before I read about the Jessum jig. Having buyer's remorse, that Jessum Jig is massive.

[Jim Mackell]

Thanks for the photos. I checked the Jessem web site and they have some good illustrations also. Got to add that to my wish list.

[Bill Huber]

Okay, I have to study that some more.

Are there any plans for it?

Let me write up something to get you started. I will try and get it done today and post it tonight.

[Craig Behnke]

i love my jessem dowel jig, but it looks like i have a previous version. new one is less money. looks like one of the major changes is you provide the clamping on the new one whereas the old one incorporated a clamp.

[Phil Thien]

i love my jessem dowel jig, but it looks like i have a previous version. new one is less money. looks like one of the major changes is you provide the clamping on the new one whereas the old one incorporated a clamp.

Bill (Huber) prefers the one you have. And I agree that one looks awesome.

The things that attracted me to this one are: (1) Price. (2) The ability to reference off a center line. I was somewhat concerned that the fact that it references off a center line would mean it doesn't work great for references off an edge. But after reflecting on it a bit, I realized that I could always reference off one of the dowel holes (which is what I do here).

[Bill Huber]

Here you go.....

I started with a 3 1/2” x 6” x 3/4” poplar board image.

Cut 2 dados, 1/2” x 3/8 deep and 3/8” in form the edge of the board the length of the board.

Cut another dado across the width of the board, 1/2” x 1/2” and 1” in from the end of the board

Install an 1/4 - 20 insert centered on the width and 1 1/2” from the opposite end from the dado going across the board.

I used a small hard maple board 4 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8” thick. I made 2 slots in the board that were 1 1/4” long and 1/4" wide that started 5/16” end form each end. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cross bar.

Next cut the sliders, 2’ long by 1/2”x 7/16”

I made the pins out of some 1/4” stock and they are 3/4" long. In one of the sliders drill a hole for one of the pins, 3/4” from one end and install the pin, this pin will never be taken out.

Now put the collar on the bit and set it for a zero depth hole. That is the bit just comes even with the bottom of the drill bushing, this is the zero setting.

Place the bit in the jig with the collar in the cross dodo, I use the slot nearest to me. Place the slider with the pin so that it just touches the bit, Now place the cross bar on and with a small star bolt lock it down. Now you can mark this as the zero mark on the jig.

Place the other slider in its slot under the cross bar. Move the bit with the collar to the other slot and place a 1 1/2" dowel at the end between the bit and the slider, make sure the dowel is in contact with the bit and the slider and mark the slider. I used a 1/4" transfer punch to mark the spot for a 1/4" hole.

Drill the 1/4" hole in the slider, now put a 2” dowel between the bit and the slider and mark and drill the hole for the pin.

Now you can mark the jig for different depths of holes, I was going to put a little ruler on the jig but just never have got it done.

So to use it, measure the depth of hole you want in the board and set the near slider to that depth. Now put the bit with a loose collar in the near slot and adjust it the correct settings. If you have 2 bits you can now set the other bit for the depth of the opposite hole. By using the jig you will never have a problem of not drilling a hole deep enough.
If you only have one bit then drill the first set of holes and then using the far slot set the bit for the other holes.


Dowel bit step1.jpg dowel cross bar.jpg

P4194602.jpg P4194603.jpg