220 wiring question

[Greg Wittler]

I had been amassing a large collection of woodworking tools, but didn't have 220 in my garage. Then a garage fire wiped out everything, and I have had to start over. Lucky for me, when they rebuilt the gargage, they put in a 220 line for me. I am completely electricity ignotant, so I am not sure how to proceed. I have 3 tools I would like to use off of the same 220 outlet in my garage. One tool a Nova DVR XP has a plug that doesn't match my outlet, and the other two tools don't have plugs yet. The other two unterminated tools are a Rikon 14" Bandsaw with a 3hp Baldor Motor, and a General 350 Cabinet saw with a 3hp Marathon Motor. My question is should I make all plugs like the 220 outlet or change out the outlet for one like on the Nova (2nd picture). My other thought was to make an extension cord with a dryer 220 line and terminate the one end with a female plug that would accept the style of plug on the Nova, and put the same plug on the other two tools. Any assistance from any of you electrical gurus would be greatly appreciated.

Greg



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[Dan Mullen]

The plug configuration is set up for the amp draw the tool will use. Your outlet in the shop looks like it's a 220v, 50 amp, 4 wire (includes a neutral). The tool that has the plug on the cord is a 220v, 20amp, 3 wire (no neutral used). You need to look at the tool data plates to determine the proper amp draw for the other to machines without a plug. The wire, cord connector and plug should all be sized to accomadate the amp draw from the machines to avoid another nasty garage fire!

You may have to add a couple of additonal outlets in the garage if you want to plug in all the tools. The breaker that protects that outlet should be sized for the wire and outlet as well. That means it may be too big to protect the wiring in the equipment if they short out. A 20 amp cord and plug should have a 20 amp breaker in the panel to protect it.

Dan

[Joseph Tarantino]

I had been amassing a large collection of woodworking tools, but didn't have 220 in my garage. Then a garage fire wiped out everything, and I have had to start over. Lucky for me, when they rebuilt the gargage, they put in a 220 line for me. I am completely electricity ignotant, so I am not sure how to proceed. I have 3 tools I would like to use off of the same 220 outlet in my garage. One tool a Nova DVR XP has a plug that doesn't match my outlet, and the other two tools don't have plugs yet. The other two unterminated tools are a Rikon 14" Bandsaw with a 3hp Baldor Motor, and a General 350 Cabinet saw with a 3hp Marathon Motor. My question is should I make all plugs like the 220 outlet

no. i wouldn't change plugs to that outlet.

or change out the outlet for one like on the Nova (2nd picture).

there are several ways to proceed. the existing outlet is a 14-30R, so that's probably a 30A circuit. check the two pole breaker in the panel and it should have "30" written on it. were it my shop, i'd change that outlet to a 6-20R receptacle. then put 6-20P plugs on the tails of the BS and the TS. both the 6-20P and the 6-15P (on your lathe) will work with the 6-20R receptacle. all you'd have, in that case, is an over rated wire and breaker to the outlet. the tools will never need that much power, so, no harm. but here's the part you might not like. i'm not in favor of leaving wires capped at an appliance that are connected to any part of the panel. so i'd disconnect that neutral from the neutral bar and cap it in the panel. given you're electrically challenged, this might be beyond your current ability.

overkill would be to disconnect the neutral at the panel, change the existing plug to 6-30R receptacle and put 6-30P plugs on all the tools. this takes the neutral out of the equation but assumes that dryer plug (14-30R) isn't being used by a dryer.

My other thought was to make an extension cord with a dryer 220 line and terminate the one end with a female plug that would accept the style of plug on the Nova, and put the same plug on the other two tools.

i wouldn't do this as it leaves a neutral connected at the panel that is unused at the appliance (tools). probably no risk, but i'm a belt and suspenders type.

Any assistance from any of you electrical gurus would be greatly appreciated.

Greg



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hope this helps

[Doug Ladendorf]

Greg, the neutral wire that Joseph is talking about is not used thus the recommendation to terminate at the panel. That outlet is for a 220v appliance that also requires 110v (e.g. A light bulb). Notice it is for four prongs but you only have three wires.

Since you are starting over my recommendation is to have an electrician install a sub panel (60 amp?) for you in the garage. This will give you flexibility to grow and add circuits if you need. You may want a dedicated 220v 20 amp line for the dust collector, and another line or two for machines.

As far as plugs I prefer the twist lock style.

[Sam Stephens]

Joseph gives sound advice. If you're in doubt, please have an electrician do this for you. Another fire is not worth it. Cost would be minimal to switch out the receptacle. A subpanel is another great option, but may not be cheap and the size depends on your current service amps supplied. If you're only using one tool at a time (+ a DC), then there's not really any benefit IMO.

[Rich Riddle]

You have one plug in your photographs. That's a 15 Amp 220 plug with one hot leg going to the white wire and one hot leg going to the black wire. The green goes to ground. No "neutral" wire is used in this configuration. Since both hot lugs are horizontal, that's a 15 amp plug. If it was a 220 volt 20 amp plug, one lug on the plug would be horizontal and one vertical. Consequently, you shouldn't be running any tool with a motor rated above 15 amps. You can use 14 gauge wire on a 15 amp plug. You would be fine operating a 3 HP motor on the 220VAC 15 amp plug/circuit.

[Rich Riddle]

Regarding the two photographs showing wires, the following should prove true.

1. The green wires in both photographs represents ground, so wire that to any ground lug on the plugs you purchase.
2. The black wires in both photographs represent a "hot leg." Wire each black wire to a hot lug on whatever 220 VAC plug you choose to purchase.
3. The red wire in the one photograph represents a "hot leg." Wire the red wire to a hot lug on whatever 220 VAC plug you choose to purchase.
4. The white wire in the one photograph represents a "hot leg." Wire the white wire to a hot lug on whatever 220 VAC plug you choose to purchase. I choose to either place red or black heat shrink on each end of the wire and shrink it over the white wire or paint the white wire with black or red liquid tape. That way I never make a mistake of forgetting that wire is hot when working/rewiring plugs. Few others do this.

[David Gutierrez]

Last fall I had a 60 amp sub placed in my garage and already regret not having a larger panel. i discovered that a small electric heater requires 20 amps, dust collector is 2hp requires 20 amps and the table saw requires 20 amps all at 220. So i am pluggin and unplugging heater and dust colector in the winter. i also have two 20amp 120V circuits. IF
had to do it over i would have the capacity for a 30amp 220V heater with both DC and saw running.

[Wade Lippman]

Last fall I had a 60 amp sub placed in my garage and already regret not having a larger panel. i discovered that a small electric heater requires 20 amps, dust collector is 2hp requires 20 amps and the table saw requires 20 amps all at 220. So i am pluggin and unplugging heater and dust colector in the winter. i also have two 20amp 120V circuits. IF
had to do it over i would have the capacity for a 30amp 220V heater with both DC and saw running.

Do you HAVE to do all that unplugging?
I put in a 60 subpanel, but only had a 30a breaker; so I used it "temporarily" to run my 3hp cyclone and 3hp tool (ts, jointer, bs). It has never tripped the breaker, so I never bothered to replace it. So it is kinda hard to see why 60a isn't enough for you.

[David Gutierrez]

I have two 220V outlets on separate circuits and three tools. So i always need to unplug something. Am I missing something?

[Doug Ladendorf]

David, your 2hp dust collector running on 220v should require something like 9 amps. Does the motor say differently? Heaters do draw a lot of power. Something for the OP to consider if he uses one or might in the future.

[Chris Friesen]

Just a note if you're considering a subpanel--when I did my garage it was cheaper to buy a 100A "house" panel package (with main breakers and a mix of circuit breakers) than it was to buy a dedicated "subpanel" with no main breakers.

This actually adds flexibility since you can power off the subpanel in the garage to work on the panel circuits rather than needing to turn it off at the main panel. Also, the exact Amp rating of the subpanel doesn't matter at all as long as it's equal to or bigger than the actual incoming amperage. (That is, oversized is fine.)

[Wade Lippman]

I have two 220V outlets on separate circuits and three tools. So i always need to unplug something. Am I missing something?

Well, the issue is why don't you just put in a third circuit? Unless your subpanel is full, with the 4 circuits, you don't need more capacity.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Also, the exact Amp rating of the subpanel doesn't matter at all as long as it's equal to or bigger than the actual incoming amperage. (That is, oversized is fine.)

Good point Chris. My panel is rated to 100 or 110 amps but the service to it is 60A.

[John Piwaron]

The pictured outlet looks like one for an electric clothes dryer - 120VAC with a 30A draw maximum. If it was wired correctly there's 10 gauge wire connected to it.

The plug is for a 220VAC 15A draw maximum.

I'd change the outlet. I'd also look at the circuit breaker for that outlet and make sure it is appropriate for that use. And the wire gauge connected to it. 14 gauge is o.k., 12 gauge is better especially on a long run. It has less voltage drop. 10 gauge would work really well for this but is way overkill. Voltage drop is bad for motors.