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Thread: Finishing A Maple & Cherry Coffee Table

  1. #1

    Finishing A Maple & Cherry Coffee Table

    I am finally approaching the finishing stage of a Mid-Century Modern themed Maple and Cherry coffee table that I have been working on for years. Its my first piece of "fine furniture", so I don't have much experience as to the myriad of available finishes to use on it. To preface, I have searched high and low, and apologize in advance for any repetitious questions. I definitely do not want to get the finish wrong, so double checking my plans and questions wont hurt.

    The table is mostly maple, with some cherry boards sandwiched in between on the top, legs, and magazine shelf. Since it is a coffee table, and I am in my 20's, I do want a durable finish that will be resistant to scuffs, water rings, etc. I understand this will obviously require some form of varnish, though in an ideal world I might prefer using only an oil and wax, or more of a danish or maloof finish. I would also probably prefer that the maple stay as light as possible throughout its life. I do want some oil in there to bring out the grain of the wood (though it isnt figured).

    So, I am leaning towards a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 mixture of either BLO or Tung, P&L 38 or Waterlox Satin, and a thinner. How does that schedule sound for my wants & needs? Is there any reason to use one and not another? Will they all work together when mixed?

    As for the coating, should I simply apply coat after coat of the above mixture? Or, should I start with couple of coats of straight oil and then cover that with straight varnish?

    Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    i would use waterlox straight and just wipe on as many coats as it takes to look you happy. waterlox is pretty dark and will might make the maple darker than your prepared for. i haven't tried the P&L yet so i can't tell you much about it. i would not worry about the 1/3 thing with either of the P&L or waterlox. you will probably want to cut either of them with some of the recommended thinner to use as a wipe on. i do now that waterlox is easy to repair and/or and coats as need down the road. waterlox is a good finish to start out with its easy to use and relatively forgiving, just be sure to remove as much air from the can as possible between uses or storing.

  3. #3
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    Waterlox is a phenolic resin/tung oil varnish pretty dark amber in color and it will continue to darken...

    Pratt & Lambert #38 is an Alkyd resin/Soya oil varnish very light in color and will only slighly darken to a light straw color...

    Either would be much better protection than an oil/varnish blend. Either can be applied as a wipe-on if thinned 50-50 with mineral spirits. Both will enhance the grain and provide a beatiful finish.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
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    One advantage of Waterlox is that if it is scuffed up a few years from now, you can slap a new coat on top, and it will burn into the old coat.

    Make a few trials on some scrap.

    I use something like bloxygen with my Waterlox. I pour out what I will use into another container, immediately spray bloxygen into the Waterlox container, and then close it up tight. If you do not do something to keep the air out, it will gel up and become useless.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    One advantage of Waterlox is that if it is scuffed up a few years from now, you can slap a new coat on top, and it will burn into the old coat.

    .
    Really, I thought all varnishes once cured were insoluble in their solvent. What makes Waterlox different?

    John

  6. #6
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    Waterlox will not burn in as with lacquer or shellac... However, it will stick VERY VERY well. You can still get witness lines with Waterlox becuase it is a reactive finish that cures. Only finishes the redisolve with the solvent from the next coat will truely "burn-in".

    Many water-bornes claim to burn-in but they are coalescing finishes; they do soften the previous coat and then coalesce again... close to burn in but not exactly the same.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    Waterlox will not burn in as with lacquer or shellac...
    I was under the mistaken impression (it seems) that it did burn in <sigh> Thanks for the correction to both of you.

  8. #8
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    I have had great success with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. I have been able to get eveything from satin to high gloss using it as a rub on (brush gives too much of a plastic look and feel IMHO).

    Semi-gloss is its natural look, settles down over about 3 monthe from gloss to semi.

    For satin-rub out your final coat with high quality steel wool, not the stuff from the home improvement stores, and wipe off while still wet.

    For high gloss I use Renaissance wax as the final hard rub out.

    Go to the Hardwood Lumber & More site and read Steve's article on "Wipe On Finishes". It is very instructional although I have had issues with the blue shop towels as applicators (fibers came out into the finish) so I stick to folded soft cotton pads.

  9. #9
    First, thanks for all the helpful input. I ended going up with a wiping varnish made of P&L 38 and have just put my ninth coat on the entire table. I have sanded with 400 grit in between each 3rd coat (so twice now), and am debating on whether to do 3 more on the whole thing, or just the table top.

    My next question is on the final processes.. So far, there has not been a coat laid down that hasn't accumulated some sort of dust nib or very minor streaking. Ive been using blue shop towels and agree that they are as lint free as anything i gonna get.

    Is it customary to sand the final coat? Im thinking of sanding 400>600>0000 steel wool and then using an automotive polishing compound to buff out any remaining marks from the steel wool. Finally, I suppose I will then wax it. OR, should i just wipe on the most even and dust free final coat ever, hope for the best, and leave it be? Keep in mind, I am going for a satin finish and have been using the satin P&L 38.

    Any input on those thoughts?

  10. #10
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    Wiping on "the most even and dust free" as you stated makes me think you are not wiping it on like the kid wipes the table at the burger joint... You should only be leaving a damp surface there should be no where near enough finish to leave a flawless mirror coat while it's still wet. You are not supposed to brush it on with a rag.

    A 3'x5' table top should take about a minute to wipe-on a coat. Otherwise you maybe appling too much per wipe-on coat.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    I apply Waterlox with an abrasive pad made by Mirka known as MIRLON.

    Using progressively finer grits, each layer of Waterlox is applied with a light touch.
    The idea is to leave finer scratches in the surface, each time.

    Keep each abrasive pad in a ziploc bag between applications, and the remaining finish won't set up in the pad.
    I cut each pad into quarters, and just rubbed it on while wearing surgical gloves.

    It was easy, and the results are durable enough for my dining table (field tested by two little boys, every day).

    The best part of this method is that there's no sanding or dusting between coats.
    The downside is it takes a couple days for each application to dry.

    The surface should be COMPLETELY dry before the next application.

    It bears mentioning that this stuff stinks while curing and should be somewhere well ventilated,
    not attached to a living space. Did I mention this stuff stinks, while curing?

    It's a variant on Mike Pekovich's article "The last finish you'll ever need" and is taught by
    Bob Van Dyke at the CVWWS.

    Dining table.jpg

  12. #12
    The dust nibs will rub out easily from the ultimate coat. The bigger issue is the minor streaking. There are 2 possible reasons for this: 1) the flatteners in the varnish are not being mixed thoroughly and frequently before you dip and do, 2) If the streaking only appears on the coats after you sand, then it could be minor contamination from the sanding residue or the lubricating solvent (if you are even using one).

  13. #13
    Thanks for the input. I believe I realize now what the problem is. I don't think that I am applying too much varnish at one time, my goal with each application is only to leave the surface damp. Also, like I mentioned, I have been applying the finish in sets of three, allowing them to fully cure, and then lightly sanding with 400. With each set, i have been letting each coat dry for 1-2 hours before beginning the next and each time it has been dry to the touch. However, it seems that on the second and third applications of each cycle, the varnish I am putting down softens and 'brings up' the previous varnish. This has been making it hard to get an even coat and sometimes requiring me to really wet the surface down to prevent the surface from "grabbing" and applying what seems an even coat. I hope what I described makes sense.

    I think that for my last few coats, I will start with a fully cured surface (and now sanded to remove any existing streaks) for each coat.

    However, my question does still exist, is it common to sand/buff your final coat of varnish to achieve a flat surface with an even sheen?

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