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Thread: Finishing Garage Walls - What Options/Finishes do you recommend?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Terrace, BC
    Posts
    519
    I can't give a good answer on the sound insulation factor - but my shop is finished with OSB. I painted it flat white (I didn't want dust and dirt to show too much) - and I love it. With OSB you can drive a screw anywhere you want (to hang "stuff" up on). My previous shop was finished with drywall, and while it was "OK", I couldn't simply drive a screw anywhere I wanted (well - I COULD, but I had to go through the whole drywall anchor thing).

    Best of luck to you.
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  2. #17
    White board panels made from masonite
    but these over your osb and they will give an fast white dustable surface
    can pick them up 10-12 dollars a sheet some times on sale for five dollars

    If your garage is connected to your house make sure you have an hour rated fire wall and ceiling
    Carpe Lignum

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Terrace, BC
    Posts
    519
    Quote Originally Posted by phil harold View Post
    White board panels made from masonite
    but these over your osb and they will give an fast white dustable surface
    can pick them up 10-12 dollars a sheet some times on sale for five dollars

    If your garage is connected to your house make sure you have an hour rated fire wall and ceiling
    Great idea. Where were you when I was building my shop?
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  4. #19

    My shop walls

    Just started the walls in my shop. Went with 1/2" MDF that I got for $8 sheet on Craigslist. Just butted them together and left the screws exposed in case I want/need to remove to add more electrical circuits. So far very pleased with it. Good luck!!

    IMG_3467.jpg

  5. I could also just go ahead and slap up some drywall and be done with it. Saves some bucks, but then I'm playing "find a stud" for the next 10 years.
    Andy
    Dry wall the bottom half (4x8 sheets on their sides) and then add an inexpensive wainscoting with stiles. Line up the stiles with the studs.

    Saves you money for something grand on the top half and you'll forever know where the studs are.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    1,617
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Shearon View Post
    Thanks, that was the company (the Green Glue Company). The locals here were saying that the foam isolation isn't as good as that, but costs about $5/sheet versus the $30-45/sheet that green glue costs (depending on whether you use two or three tubes per sheet). The neighbors have said "no worries", so I'm not sure I want to spend the extra $s for the best - I'm just trying to do to be civilized. That would definitely be better.
    Andy,

    I'm apologizing for the geeky engineer coming out in me but... <g>

    The absorbing of sound / vibration is highly dependant upon the frequencies you are looking to remove. Things such as foam work well for high frequencies but, for low frequencies you need something with more mass. This is where the Green Glue comes in. It provides the "spring" for the heavy mass of the drywall.

    If your concern is primarily in the low frequencies in the 60 Hz spectrum, 180 Hz, 420 Hz (a 3600 rpm motor's, first, third and seventh harmonic) like mine is for my 5hp DC you really need that mass to reduce the low rumble.

    OTOH this will provide little help for the high pitched squeal of a router; foam is your friend there. <g>
    One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!

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