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Thread: MF Langdon 74-C Parts?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kernersville, NC
    Posts
    171
    Hi Brian,

    I am sending you a PM.

    Thanks so much

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kernersville, NC
    Posts
    171
    Hi Brian,

    Not sure if my PM to you actually sent. Can you let me know,

    Thanks

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mnts.of Va.
    Posts
    615
    Oops.sorry...I got it.

    Been a very interesting little job.There's 10 assemblies sitting in the shop.Have been enjoying the brain activity concerning the "D" shaped hole in the end of the outer member.Have decided to try and punch it.......being as there's not that many to do,will just use our H-frame hydraulic press.Which I still contend,that's how M-F was doing them.....we'll see.If that dosen't work.....we'll broach them.

    Haven't figured out(yet) why,on the originals....the wrench flats on the outside member don't align with the flat on the inner,sliding part(as viewed from the knurled nut end).It's the chicken/egg thing.Which sort of dosen't matter,meaning they really should be "phased",irrespective of which operation comes first(wrench flats vs D hole).But none of the ones we have are.....means the factory didn't see any advantage to them being so.Which is nonsense....they really should be phased,from an end user standpoint.Curious?

    Going to make a run today looking for springs.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mnts.of Va.
    Posts
    615
    Moving right along guys.Made the D shaped punch out of some O1 drill rod today at lunch.Harden'd with OA torch,quenched in some of wifey's veg. oil....tempered @400* in kitchen oven.Pulled it out,cooled,after work.....was a no-brainer punching,worked as designed.Basically confirming the factory procedure.

    Struck out yesterday on springs.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kernersville, NC
    Posts
    171
    Hi Brian,

    Don't worry about the spring. I can find someone close by to make one for me. Glad you were able to make the D punch in the rod. It sounds like you've made good progress.
    Last edited by Glenn Samuels; 01-20-2014 at 9:10 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mnts.of Va.
    Posts
    615
    The parts are done.Well,except no springs......I'm going to keep looking.Then,like Glenn....will probably end up making some.

    Got busy in cabinet shop all of a sudden.Funny how that goes?A guy did stop by and snagged a cpl assembly's yesterday,said he would find the springs.There's 8 left.

    I'll post up when the spring thing gets figured out?

  7. #22
    I just tried to take my good one apart to measure the spring and see if I could find a suitable spring at MSC, McMaster, etc... I could not get the assembly apart.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    389
    I know this thread is 2.5 years old. anyone have a source for an elevator stop part?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    15
    It's been another 2.5 years so I guess it's time for another query -- anyone know of a source for elevator stops or depth stops? Vintage or newly manufactured, doesn't matter.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,225
    Jim, I understand the frustration. I looked for months while restoring several miter boxes. On one, I found a similar box, and offered the seller to pay for the box, but only ship me the parts I wanted. At a minimum, it saved me a considerable amount of shipping cost.

    The elevator stops are a tough find without buying a complete box, or at least posts. I also don’t want to set false expectations, but a couple of elevator stops I did obtain, just don’t work well. As much adjusting, tweaking, fiddling as I can do, and they let the saw slip down with the slightest of bumps. Point is, don’t drive yourself crazy on this. On one box I use, I just hold the saw up with a spring clamp.

    Good luck with the search. Enjoy the miter box.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    15
    Thanks for the advice. I did get some parts in the way you described, but I'm still missing one depth stop and one elevator stop. It's good to know that the elevator stops are flaky -- maybe that's why they're always missing. And I can't seem to get the one I have screwed in, in any case, so perhaps it's best to move on. The spring clamp sounds like a good solution.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,029
    The elevator stops on mine, that I bought new in 1973 I think, have always been very sensitive. They have always held, but will drop with the slightest touch.

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