Floating a 1/2" Panel in a Headboard or Footboard

[Brent Ring]

Hi all,

I am trying to know whats the best way to float some 1/2" Thick panels in a head board and foot board I am building. I am not sure what is the best way to float the panels. Space Balls wont work - to small. The rails and stiles are 1 1/4" thick with a 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep dado to hold the panels. The Panels are bookmatched pieces of walnut, and the grain is running length-wise. I have attached a jpeg of the footboard sketchup for reference. There are 4 panels to install. SHould I cut small tenons on all 4 sides and then glue in place just at the tenons? Can I use window insulation to flow the panel? You know, the kind that is in a roll and you peel and stick?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Brent

footboard.jpg

[Sam Murdoch]

I often allow the panel to sit firmly on the bottom ( you really only need the gaps at the sides) - center it in the opening then set a headless pin or small brad inconspicuously in the very center at the top. No spacers needed. If you must use a spacer the foam "backer rod" that comes in all kinds of diameters works very well. Most importantly (as you know) is to not get glue on the panel - prefinish or give a scrub in the corners with paraffin before assembly.

[Dave Richards]

It does sound like you're over-thinking it a bit. You say the grain will be running lengthwise. I gather this means horizontally. If that is the case, leave some room at the top for expansion. Maybe a little at the ends but that won't be as critical because the panel won't change size much in that direction.

[Brent Ring]

I want ti strong - but accomodate for seasonal movement. Hoe much space to leave Dave? 1/16" or and 1/8" on each end?

[Lee Schierer]

I want ti strong - but accomodate for seasonal movement. Hoe much space to leave Dave? 1/16" or and 1/8" on each end?

If the grain runs horizontally, then 1/8" is plenty for a 6-7" wide panel. Space balls would still work on 1/2" wide panels even if they are small for the slot. You can also make your own using silicone sealant. Cut the nozzle on the tube to the diameter that you want and squeeze out a long bead on a sheet of wax paper. Let it cure completely and peal it off the paper. Cut the rod of silicone into lengths desired to make your spacers.

[Sam Murdoch]

It does sound like you're over-thinking it a bit. You say the grain will be running lengthwise. I gather this means horizontally. If that is the case, leave some room at the top for expansion. Maybe a little at the ends but that won't be as critical because the panel won't change size much in that direction.

Sorry, I read too fast and missed that the grain was running lengthwise - but Dave saw that - you then can let it sit firmly on the bottom and leave an 1/8" at the top with 1/16" at either end for those sized panels without any issues. If you want to locate the panels from moving side to side simply pin the center of the panels at the bottom. One pin will keep it centered without any side to side movement especially on a fixed head board or foot board.

As Lee write - the space balls can still work even though they are small for the slot - I have added a dab of silicone caulking to my dado just to hold the space ball in place, though they are not really needed for the side to side clearance in this case.

[Brent Ring]

What about if the grain runs vertically? It will be in the headboard.

[Sam Murdoch]

Read my post # 2.