Water based Poly over Danish Oil

[Craig Salyers]

Hello everyone. My jewerly box is getting close to finish. I just put two coats of danish oil on it, but i am not happy with the sheen. I would like a little more shine to it. I was thinking about a couple coats of poly, but I would prefer to use a water based polt to avoid any yellowing or discoloration. It is Ok to put a water base top-coat over an oil based finish? Will that be a problem? Either way, is there a better option?

Thanks in advance for the info!

[Greg Torok]

the table I'm sitting at now was finished that way.... just make sure the danish oil is completely dry.

[Steve Cox]

More correctly, the Danish oil has to be completely cured. That could take a few weeks. Try putting a coat of shellac between the two. Most of the time that will act as a sealer between oil-based and water-based finishes.

[Jason Roehl]

More correctly, the Danish oil has to be completely cured. That could take a few weeks. Try putting a coat of shellac between the two. Most of the time that will act as a sealer between oil-based and water-based finishes.

I agree, but make sure the shellac is dewaxed. Straight shellac doesn't always play nice with WB poly. I've had good results with Zinsser SealCoat, which is dewaxed blonde (clear) shellac mixed in a 2-lb cut, with a 3-year shelf life. Flow it on with a good nylon/polyester brush (or, even better, spray it!), and leave it alone. Don't overbrush, it dries very fast.

[Jim Becker]

In addition to the advice already given, you must sand the surface lightly before you apply the acrylic (WB) poly and between coats on the poly, too. Polyurethane hates sticking even to itself and needs a surface with "tooth" do do so. You do not need the shellac barrier as long as the previous varnish oil has cured, although it will not hurt. It MUST be de-waxed shellac, however, under a water-bourne finish as well as even under oil poly...