Size bandsaw for resawing.

[Joe Hillmann]

I am looking to upgrade my band saw mostly because I want to be able to resaw with it. I want to be able to resaw 1 inch boards I buy at the sawmill as well as resaw wood from the firewood pile thin enough to be able to cut it with my laser. What size band saw should I be looking for? I don't plan to buy new.

[Charles Wiggins]

I am looking to upgrade my band saw mostly because I want to be able to resaw with it. I want to be able to resaw 1 inch boards I buy at the sawmill as well as resaw wood from the firewood pile thin enough to be able to cut it with my laser. What size band saw should I be looking for? I don't plan to buy new.

I'm not a band saw guru by any means, but the general rule of thumb, it seems, is to buy the largest, most powerful band saw that you can afford. I have a Jet JWBS-18QT-3, and for all its pluses, it still only has a little over 12" of re-saw clearance. If you're wanting to re-saw 20" logs that isn't going to get it. Once you zero in on what capacity you need then that should inform what market you'll be looking at.

It might help to check this combination thread.

Cheers,
Charles

[Joe Hillmann]

When I get a chance I will read through the links on that thread. As far a capacity I only need about 6 inches of resaw capacity. But I am more concerned about stiffness of saw to be able to tension a wide blade and and power. The bandsaw I have now has a 4" capacity but isn't powerful enough and doesn't get the blade tight enough to use the full 4".

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Joe, I'm not sure if you're looking for new or used saws?

I've used General bandsaws that resawed well, same for older Rockwell etc makes.

If you're looking for new, Laguna, SCM, Felder etc make some nice machines.

I like the larger saws (17 to 20") because in general they have larger, lower tables which is great for handling large items.

Stiffness of the saw frame is important, motor power is overated as 2 HP is plenty for a bandsaw unless you like dull blades.

Personally I have an inexpensive General International 17" saw that does resaw very well.

I've also used it for converting logs into lumber.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. I've added a link to illustrate my bandsaw making lumber...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...r+on+a+bandsaw

[Frank Trinkle]

You might want to check out the Laguna 14x14 SUV. Full 14" resaw and while it's a Taiwan manufactured, it has received excellent reviews. I'm buying one in the next couple of months along with their Italian 20" LT20. (Need two for specific uses)

[David Kumm]

If you are looking at used the older saws had less resaw height but were well built to handle it. Zayd here had a couple of SCMI 24" that were really nice for the $$. Bridgewood saws were made by ACM, as were Felder's saws until recently. and there 20" would be a good all around saw. The older minimax saws would be great candidates too. Dave

[Matt Day]

Hi Joe, I'm not sure if you're looking for new or used saws?

Rod, the last sentence in his post says

I don't plan to buy new.

[Jamie Buxton]

For resawing 6", there's no need to spend thousands of dollars. I used to resaw on a Delta 14" bandsaw, with a 1/2" Woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware. It did just fine on 6"-tall resawing. The Woodslicer blade may have been more important than the brand of saw. There were a lot of those saws made. You should be able to find one used for a couple hundred bucks, or maybe even less. There also have been lots of clones made of that saw. I have less experience with them, but some of them should be good too.

[Gus Dundon]

A band saw with 14" resaw capability would be way to go.

[John TenEyck]

+1. A 14" Delta will resaw 6" w/o trouble if the blade is up to snuff. I have that saw, to which I added a riser block and a 1.5 HP motor. I use Olson bi-metal blades, 1/2" x 3 tpi, and easily resaw 10" stock straight and true. No, you can't put 18,000 psi on a 1/2" blade, even the thinner Woodslicer, but if the saw is well tuned the 12,000 psi you can apply is more than adequate. There are those like Michael Fortune (who's a pretty fair woodworker) who argue that low tension works fine, others that swear you need 25,000 psi. I don't think one argument is more valid than the other. Mine cuts fine at around 12,000 psi, so tension isn't the key - a blade that is sharp and with equal set on both sides, in a well tuned machine, is more important than how much tension you can put on it. At lower tension you can't saw as fast as at higher tension, but you can saw straight.

If I didn't already own the Delta I would look for a larger steel framed machine, something in the 18" range with a motor in the 3 HP range.

John

[Richard Coers]

The blade is more important than the saw. No more than 3 teeth per inch, on any width blade. You can resaw with a 3/8" blade if the machine is set up correctly and the blade has 3 tpi or less. Of course you can't throw the wood through the saw with a narrow blade, but it will cut just fine. Speaking of speed, almost all complaints of poor resaw performance can be improved by slowing down the feed. If you see dust inside the cut, you are going too fast. The gullets are full and don't remove all the dust when that happens. Any saw with more than 1 hp will work for you.

[Mark A Johnson]

You mention 6", but look in the 14" + sizes. Look for roller guides, although it possible to upgrade. Cast iron wheels are a must. Saw blades you'll find make a hugh difference. You have difference widths, tooth count, and tooth configuration. I read reviews and gravitated to Timberwolf saw blades. Great product and customer service.