What is your prefered method for laminating veneer to a panel?

[Richard Coers]

Yikes, comparing formica countertops to fine veneer work is not a good sign here. One is a rigid multi ply high pressure laminate or resin and paper, the other is a very thin slice of natural wood. Can't even think of one thing that makes them similar. The use of contact cement for hobby veneer work was started years ago, and I think mainly by Constantines. They should have been shot right there. Of course there are also guys that will come on and praise that work, along with the guys who use pressure sensitive tape. Just watched Scott Phillips do that on TV, cutting his work with a scissors and a utility knife. But you know what? I don't consider Scott to be a fine furniture maker, just barely a furniture maker. I don't recall anyone talking about table saw blade quality either. A "new" blade means nothing. It can be a new $25 blade from Home Depot, or it can be a $160 Forrest Hi-AT. One is for 2x4s, the other for fine veneer work. You've got a lot of reading to do Joseph, or even better, find a mentor.

[Peter Quinn]

A veneer blade may help. Generally high ATB TC grind 80z. I got one for plywood....end of my problems. Not all 80Z blades are equal, if you do a lot of this it may be worth the investment. Many are sold as "melamine" blades, that's what the triple chip blades are for, something strong and more blunt to take the hit for the high ATB teeth. I never cut melamine with mine, don't like the smell. If it won't cut plywood clean that's enough evidence for me that its dull.

[Roy Harding]

I don't do a lot of veneering, but it's not an uncommon task. When I do it's for small projects such as keepsake boxes, and the like.

I've found that a vacuum bag is indispensable - I bought one meant for making skateboards a few years ago. It wasn't terribly expensive - on the order of $60.00 or so. Google "skateboard vacuum press" and a variety of sources will be found.

I've only used my regular Titebond I or II equivalent glues - and never had a problem. Veneer tape is a must for book matching or any other time you are veneering multiple pieces. For larger projects - large panels, etcetera, I would look at some of the glues and methods others have brought up (I bow to their more relevant experience.) Bottom line - contact cement isn't the right choice - for all the reasons outlined above.

A good veneer and/or plywood blade would also help - although I've never had a problem treating veneer as solid wood - IE, rip blade when ripping, and cross cut blade when cross cutting.

The are a lot of good resources out there on the internet - do a little reading and Youtube watching, and you should be good to go.

[Roy Harding]

... I never cut melamine with mine, don't like the smell. If it won't cut plywood clean that's enough evidence for me that its dull.

You're quite right. My choice of melamine for test cutting probably has to do with deteriorating eyesight - bad cuts are VERY visible using this material. If you haven't yet experienced the joys of "playing the back nine of life", then your eyesight is no doubt sharp enough to detect any problems by using plywood without recourse to a magnifying glass. For the more "mature" amongst us, however, I highly recommend a short cut in melamine - the bad cut will be extremely obvious.

[Mark Bolton]

I don't consider Scott to be a fine furniture maker

Oh lord, what a chuckle,.. Im no fine furniture maker either but every time I watch that guy its like swallowing shards of broken glass. Its just excruciatingly painful. But its the way of the world, he, the wood whisperer, and so many more, have populated shops and homes with free sponsored tools and virtually zero skill and experience, I have to applaud their marketing savvy. But I digress, sorry, didnt mean to hijack.. just gave a rise to my day HAH..

[Jim Tobias]

Joseph,
As others have said, a good glue (urea formaldehyde, hide glue, plastic resin) is going to give you the best bond. If you get it spread evenly over the entire surface, you should have little , if any, issue with tear out/chipping. I've had some very gnarly burl veneer that cut perfectly without tear out after using urea formaldehyde glue in a veneer press. If you had concern, you could use tape along the cutline for extra support.
As for the veneer pieces(bookmatch or 4 way) moving around\, you definitely should be taping them together with veneer tape before putting them on substrate.
Below is a shot of a piece with veneer tape applied.

Jim

Taped up birds eye.jpg

[Tony Joyce]

A veneer blade may help. Generally high ATB TC grind 80z. I got one for plywood....end of my problems. Not all 80Z blades are equal, if you do a lot of this it may be worth the investment. Many are sold as "melamine" blades, that's what the triple chip blades are for, something strong and more blunt to take the hit for the high ATB teeth. I never cut melamine with mine, don't like the smell. If it won't cut plywood clean that's enough evidence for me that its dull.

I'm not familiar with a "high Alternate Top Bevel Triple Chip grind" who offers this type blade?

Tony

[Roy Harding]

I'm not familiar with a "high Alternate Top Bevel Triple Chip grind" who offers this type blade?

Tony

Just about all saw blade brands offer such blades. For an explanation, this source isn't bad. http://www.dekalbsaw.com/glossary.html

[joseph dake]

I am using a freud blade, I have been woodworking long enough to know better than to expect good cuts from junk blades. All I said was that I rolled it like you would a formica countertop as I don't have a press as this is the first time veneering anything. I had a nice piece of walnut veneer, curly maple and a six day weekend so I thought I might try something new. I also had the contact adhesive on hand so what the hay I used it anyway.

[Tony Joyce]

Just about all saw blade brands offer such blades. For an explanation, this source isn't bad. http://www.dekalbsaw.com/glossary.html

The source you list does not describe the grind you reference. "High Alternate Top Bevel" & "Triple Chip Grind" are two separate and very different grinds, which I'm sure you meant to say? I thought this was a new grind and I was intrigued by what it might look like. If I'm wrong I'd still like to see an example?

Tony