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Thread: Vintage miter boxes

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    What a beautiful saw,Derek!!!! Great handle!

    The only miter box saw I have is a Jorgenson with a wire tensioned blade,similar to the Ulmia type saws shown in posts above. I had to re make all of the quarter round moldings in the entire house when we bought this 1949 house. They were all removed back in the 70's,apparently(because they also sawed the doors 1 1/2" shorter when they installed shag carpeting.) I really think that they used a chain saw for shortening the doors,so horribly rough were they cut. Ended up replacing all the doors in the house! Getting the old paint off turned out to be much too much trouble.

    The miter box worked quite accurately,and soon the house was refitted with quarter round moldings.

    I used a hand powered miter saw because I was trying to not raise a lot of dust all over the house.

    The miter saw outfit was purchased NOS for a fraction of the retail price where I have been buying used machinery and tooling for many years. The little teeth were filed too aggressive,and the saw grabbed a lot. I was hoping that with use the teeth would dull just a bit and get less grabby. They never did,using the soft wood I was using. I had no shop set up at the time to re configure the saw teeth,nor did I want to! Too many other renovations to do. As David mentioned,miter saw teeth are quite small,and very numerous. All my shop was in boxes as we were moving into the house.
    Last edited by george wilson; 08-24-2016 at 9:49 AM.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broadview Heights, OH
    Posts
    711
    25 degree rake? Yikes! All the mitre saws I have seen have the standard 12-15 rake angle like any normal crosscut. I wonder if this is an example of theory and reality colliding? Technically, a 25 degree rake is almost a peg tooth designed to cut in both directions like in a two man crosscut. I've sharpened quite a few crosscut mitre box saws, and they have conventional teeth which do more cutting on the push stroke. 30 degree fleam is pretty aggressive too...would dull pretty quickly. Most backsaws have 20 degree fleam.

    Regards,

    Pete

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    A suburb of Los Angeles California
    Posts
    644
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Taran View Post
    25 degree rake? Yikes! All the mitre saws I have seen have the standard 12-15 rake angle like any normal crosscut.
    Pete
    I certainly don't have your sharpening experience, but analytically:
    a normal crosscut saw with the 12 - 15* rake is held at a 45* angle to the work. A mitre saw never has that angle of attack.
    Perhaps the mitre saw's extra rake helps compensate for this.
    AKA - "The human termite"

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broadview Heights, OH
    Posts
    711
    Chuck,

    I think you are thinking about it wrong. No matter what angle the saw is held to the work, inside the kerf, it's all the same once the entire cutting edge is in the cut. Severing fibers is severing fibers, regardless of the angle the saw is held.

    Regards,

    Pete

  5. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by David Barnett View Post
    Having used Nobex, Jorgenson and at least three other frame saw miter boxes, I can attest that the Ulmia was the best with Nobex being a distant but acceptable second—I truly didn't like the Jorgenson I tried but maybe it's better now. The Nobex, in spite of its generous depth capacity, seemed more suited to cutting interior architectural mouldings and picture frame stock—I've seen a few in framing shops. The others fell far short in my experience. The Ulmia works very well but is spendy.
    David, you must have tried one of the less expensive Nobex models. I have their "Champion 180" and it's absolutely perfect, though I did have to make a few small & simple mods. The Ulmia looks well made & precise, but it lacks a number of significant features: No compound cuts. A very low backing fence. A very shallow deck. (the Nobex fully supports 4.5") No angle markings on the deck, etc. Plus, it's made of iron. Who want to carry that extra weight? It adds nothing to a hand miter saw. For that price, I can't see it at all.

    The Ulmia sure is pretty, though, and I guess has hat "vintage" vibe. (except for the saw itself.) It's probably also very precise. - But my Nobex has made countless frames with usually no need for the shooting board after my cuts. How much more precise do you need? The only downside, and this would apply to the Ulmia as well (and NOT to vintage miter saws) is that you can't shave just a hair off the end of a piece, since the blade will flex just a noodge. - But you can deal with that by glueing a sacrificial piece to the end first, or just use a shoot board.

    --------------------

    FWIW, The Jorgenson is indeed a complete pile of cow droppings. So badly made it's scary. (At least the model I owned.)
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 08-25-2016 at 4:55 AM.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Thanks Pete, appreciate the experienced input. It seemed a bit much to me, but I'm just getting the hang of this sharpening thing and am at a point where I believe everything I read

    Sounds like I have a date with a couple hundred saw teeth in my near future.

    By the way, here are the two charts I was referencing:

    image.gif. image.gif
    Last edited by Phil Mueller; 08-24-2016 at 3:37 PM. Reason: added the charts

  7. #52
    Derek, out of curiosity did your Acme come with the stock rests or were you able to find reproductions? I have a 73A (Atkins saw, cool!) that is missing them and it's bugging me that I just can't find a set.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,450
    Thanks George. I actually used one of your handles for inspiration - but did not get close. Isaac made a great saw plate, and I tried to do it justice.

    Stew, one of the depth stops were missing, and I used that to make new ones. I needed to do a few other things to get it running true (the base was welded and ground, which created a few problems). This was a relatively inexpensive purchase on eBay because it came with faults. I did a write up here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...ailchisel.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Kee View Post
    I scored a small Goodell Pratt 1265 miter box off the auction site recently. It's 12" wide and takes a 16" saw with 2 1/2" under the spline - a saw that I'm having great difficulty finding.
    I dont know if it helps, but I think LN will custom-make saws for antique miter boxes. It wont be what you'd pay at a garage sale, but it will be a good tool.
    Fred

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
    Posts
    3,213
    Blog Entries
    1
    Bad Axe makes some nice saws that work in miter boxes too. I got mine from Ron Bontz, back before he offered kits. If I had it to do over I might go with the 18" kit Ron offers. My half back, made from a Wenzloff kit back when he made kits, works in mine too. I am happy with my 20" saw though. I find it cuts as fast as my larger 26" saw in my MF 73C. This is because I can use more of the 20" blade without pulling it out of the guide on the far side.

    It took me a while to build up confidence in the Stanley 150, as the saw just does not have much to guide the blade. I was also concerned that the metal saw guide would scratch up my nice Bontz saw. Now that I have grown more familiar with the saw holding mechanism I have found it to work quite well, without scratching up the saw.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Blacklick, OH
    Posts
    59
    I just scored this little beauty off the auction site. Some might not have heard of it. It had a broken foot that has been professionally welded and replaced. I'm now on the lookout for a replacement saw - 16" long with 2 1/2" under the spline.


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    DSCN2781 (800x600).jpg

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    DuBois, PA
    Posts
    1,897
    Going to need some saw guides. what is the ID of the post holes?
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

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