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Thread: Rust Finishing Hardware

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
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    Rust Finishing Hardware

    I need to rust finish some steel cabinet hardware and a hammer head, but I can't get my hands on Nitric Acid, or any acid stronger than vinegar, here in Japan.

    I had thought about bumming some battery acid from a car mechanic..... but not sure it would produce the same results as Nitric Acid.

    Any suggestions for alternate chemicals or methods?

    Thanks,

    Stan

  2. #2
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    Dec 2008
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    Gibsons British Columbia Canada ( near Vancouver )
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    Stanley: Not that I have done any rust finishing, but salt?? Just a thought and good luck !

  3. #3
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    Jan 2005
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    Milton, GA
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    Highland Woodworking sells a wax/coating that I have used for years on metal surfaces, protects & lubricates:

    "Renaissance Wax was originally developed in association with the British Museum for restoration and protection of art treasures, and is a superb micro-crystalline polish ideal for use in the shop. Renaissance Wax is our all-time favorite coating for reducing friction, preventing rust and corrosion, and putting a shine on anything that needs it."

    It is expensive but it only takes a very small amount. A can can coat countless tools.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Puget Sound, USA
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    595
    Saline solution soaked rags wrapped around whatever you want to have a rust finish works but it takes a long time. The solution should be fairly strong and the rags refreshed as needed. An acid wash would be much quicker. Maybe muriatic acid would work?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Kagawa, Japan.
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    Decent drug store. Citric acid and acetic acid (not glacial, but more punch than vinegar) are on the shelf at at least 2 drug store chains around here, and having needed to visit a drug store in Kyoto (calamine lotion.) I'd expect they'll have something. Just ask the actual pharmacist, if the store has one. Look for a decent sized store not in the city centre.

    That'll clean the steel free of contaminants and rust, and allow an even rust coating to form as it works kind of like an etch primer. To create the rust, leave it to rust by itself or spray a saline solution/brine on the steel. Any additional oxidizing material (peroxide, also at the drug store) might help.

    All the other stuff is difficult to find. I've looked. Hard.

    After that, I don't know how you'll stabilise the rust so it doesn't go any further, that's your call.

    Stu.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
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    793
    RE: Nitric Acid
    Do a search on eBay. There are several listings for it. If you need a link PM me & I'll send one.

    Tony
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  7. #7
    You want rust? Copper sulfate. You can find it in tree root killer (the stuff that is poured down sewer lines to kill invading tree roots).

    That will give you red rust. Boil the piece with red rust (in water) and you will convert the red rust to black oxide.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    12,402
    Tony,you might get in trouble mailing nitric acid. Very likely listed as hazardous material,requiring a big jump in the cost of mailing.

  9. #9
    Are you looking for a finish similar/identical to barrel (as in gun) browning? If so those are off the shelf. In particular Birchwood Casey has a premixed product called Plum Brown Barrel FInish. I suspect there are other brands similar as well.
    ...we could not handle the adze with half his skill:the improvement of tools had lowered the need for personal ability. W. Rose

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
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    793
    George,
    Actually some list free shipping. I bought some(I'm not a seller) and got it no problem. There is a listing on eBay now for 24oz. 70% Lab grade for $59.95 free shipping. Feedback 100% from 119 buyers. Ships from WV. I assume the shipper is responsible for correct labeling and they state labeling and packaging meets state and federal requirements.

    BTW, I do agree it is a hazardous material and should be handled as such, especially at 70% solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Tony,you might get in trouble mailing nitric acid. Very likely listed as hazardous material,requiring a big jump in the cost of mailing.
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  11. #11
    Might be a little tougher for stan in japan.

    Stan - I guess going to a "gun store" there and looking at their metal treatment products is probably not going to work ?

    Did the mosaku ever settle down, or have you been too busy to tend to it?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Blacklick, OH
    Posts
    59
    Can you buy a toilet bowl cleaner called "The Works" in Japan? I've been using it for several years now to remove rust from old tools. It removes the rust very effectively, but if you don't rinse the chemical off the old tool, it'll rust again - quickly and somewhat evenly.

    If you want to have an item to rust, throw your item in some for about half an hour, don't rinse it off, then let it sit out for about another hour - you'll have a well-aged and somewhat rusty look to the metal.

    Richard
    Last edited by Richard Kee; 08-07-2013 at 9:43 PM.

  13. #13
    You might try a food/ restaurant supply place. I've bought citric acid powder for "preserving food" in 5 lb bags from amazon

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,443
    As an outsider who's totally lost in this conversation; have you got a picture of what you're looking to make? Not that it will help in your quest at all, but I'm just curious. A quick google search just turns up this thread and some Amerock hardware, which I'm not sure is what you're going for.
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
    Posts
    1,550
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Holbrook View Post
    Highland Woodworking sells a wax/coating that I have used for years on metal surfaces, protects & lubricates:

    "Renaissance Wax was originally developed in association with the British Museum for restoration and protection of art treasures, and is a superb micro-crystalline polish ideal for use in the shop. Renaissance Wax is our all-time favorite coating for reducing friction, preventing rust and corrosion, and putting a shine on anything that needs it."

    It is expensive but it only takes a very small amount. A can can coat countless tools.
    Mike:

    Thanks for the response, but I do not want to protect from rust, I want to actively promote it in a very controlled manner to create an attractive and tough finish.

    Stan

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