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Thread: Shooting Board Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Round Rock, TX (near Austin)
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    Shooting Board Question

    I have virtually nil Neanderthal experience but am intrigued by it. I have seen shooting boards in magazines and books. The question that always goes through my mind is:

    Doesn't the planing action cut the shooting board face as well as the stock being planed? How do you keep everything in alignment or square or whatever with the shooting board face being planed too?

    -- Kevin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Spokane, Washington
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    Kevin---The shooting board is actually trimmed on the first few cuts to the depth that the blade is set. In a standard bench or block plane, the blade does not extend to the very edge of the plane body, but ends about 1/4 inch shy of the edge. So that 1/4 inch of the base of the shooting board is not trimmed by the blade, and becomes the registration for the plane, preventing it from cutting any further into the shooting board.

    I'm not exactly sure what your second question is, but the piece being trimmed is held square to the shooting board by the far edge of the shooting board, which functions as a fence, with the piece being pushed against it The plane iron is square to the piece by virtue of the plane's shoulders, which are (ideally) milled perpendicular to the sole, and regester against the top of the workbench, which must be flat for the system to work.

    Any minor inaccuracies in the setup can be adjusted by means of paper shims strategically placed at the appropriate points.

    If you are visually oriented, David Charleworth has a new dvd devoted to the subject of shooting boards, which is very helpful, as are his other two on sharpening and using planes.

    Here is a link to the dvd's. http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/AV7-D.htm
    Last edited by Dan Forman; 05-26-2005 at 6:27 PM.
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    Dan has it right. The part of the sole of the plane between the side and the iron is called the lateral margin. On my cross grain shooting board, I inlaid a 1/8" rip of ebony at the bottom of the top piece so that the plane is not hung up as it slides quite well, and is very wear resistant. It is my most accurate 90 in the shop. I don't use it for everything, but can't imabine building a drawer without it. True 90's make a world of difference in building a proper drawer.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies. The lateral margin explains it perfectly.

    -- Kevin

  5. #5
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    Jun 2004
    Location
    KC, MO
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    kevin,

    when I made my shooting board I used the TS set to 1/8" shy of cutting thru the board.....this made a tiny "rabbet" or railing for the "lateral margin" (ref. Alan Turner) to slide on and not cut into the shooting board.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Livermore, CA
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    831
    Yeah, you should plow a groove for dust to collect without getting between the cheek and board.

    Dust....just in power tool use...is the enemy of accuracy and the whole point of a shooting board is accuracy.
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  7. #7
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    Feb 2004
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    Perth, Australia
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    I have built several shooting boards, some quick-and-dirty (MDF sheets) and others complex (e.g. ramped SB - with mitre angle attachment, below).

    Before the fence is attached, it is necessary to "run them in", which simply involves running the plane along the runway, so that it cuts into the side, leaving a tiny unplanned edge at the bottom (where the blade does not reach). The plane subsequently runs against this low edge. Now attach the fence.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
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    Alan,

    If you have time I would like to see a picture of your shooting board. I am intrigued with your inlay of ebony.

    Thanks

    Brian

  9. #9
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    Nov 2004
    Location
    Winterville NC
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    389

    adjustment

    Kevin: Just an easy adjustment. I have a rather acceptible chute board but it can even be done with what used to be called a bence hook. For an easy adjustment on your set up if it's square great if it's a small bit out of 90 adjust the angle with the left and right adjustment on your plane ( sorry at 70 I forget its name). Don't forget to reset it after its use. Harry

  10. #10
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    NOw you guys have me thinking........

    I made mine out of MDF.....should I have used hardwood???

  11. #11
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    Roy

    No, MDF is still good. Here are a couple of quickies - MDF and melanine. They work just as well as the jarrah version above.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Derek,

    Thanks for the info! I've got lots of melamine too - gotta have several shooting boards.............!!!!!

  13. #13
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    Brian,
    I will try to remember. But, you should know that senior moments abound.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Round Rock, TX (near Austin)
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks everyone. As usual, the wealth of knowledge here is amazing. It makes it a lot easier to observe practices when I understand the mechanics.

    -- Kevin

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Sarasota, Fl
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    Question on squaring shooting board?

    Great discussion! I don't have any shooting boards yet but I was wondering how you make sure it's perfectly square or 45 degrees? I don't trust any of my squares to check it with that. Is there another test you can use to verify that it's perfect? Alan in Md.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

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