Clearvue install questions and advice requested

[Robert McNaull]

Want to thank several of you gave great advice on my post on my initial purchase and am back to poll the experienced on some additional install questions.

Mounting - My initial plan was to mount the unit to the first floor floor joists (basement shop). I was going to construct some isolation joints to reduce vibration using 3/4" rubber stripping. On second thought, I could mount it to the concrete wall of my basement with some additional work. Is this worth it in terms of vibration reduction? I guess I don't know how noisy one of these units can be and the amount of vibration that they produce.

Next is ducting question. I can source steel HVAC duct locally and should be able to get 26 ga duct and fittings. Is it worth the money to run 8" main? My main run is about 30 ft with 3 y's off the main. I have played with the duct spreadsheet from Bill Pentz's site but it seems a lot of folks just run 6" pvc for everything.

I need to install the noise reducing block in the housing yet and based on information posted by another creeker will give this a try.

I have repaired the cyclone housing from the larger cracks. I got a 1/8" thick sheet of PETG plastic from McMaster for patching and spent a several evenings gluing patches and clamping and then coming back the next night and clamping in more locations and applying more glue. I have to say the PETG is pretty easy to work with. Cut it on the band saw, hit it with a heat gun until pliable, lay it on the cyclone and form it to the curvature. Let it cool, clamp, and glue. It isn't the prettiest but it is solid and highly functional. The stuff is nice enough to work with I think I will use the leftovers of the sheet to make some router guards with dust ports.
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[Robert Payne]

I'd recommend mountng a plywood plate to the concrete wall with some 3/8" vibration-damping sandwich mounts (like these) pre-installed to the plate. These mounts are designed to handle shear loads. Mount them to accept the standard wall bracket in the CV Installation Manual and that entire bracket will be isolated from the wall and, better yet, from the joists which would otherwise tend to transmit any vibration.

[Michael W. Clark]

I think you are better off mounting it to the wall as well.

Make sure that your repair work left a smooth interior surface. Any bumps and ridges, especially on the curved surfaces, can affect performance.

Mike

[Jim German]

I was in a similar situation and mounted it to the concrete wall. The thing puts out a fair amount of vibration, although it is fairly well isolated from the mounts. I was trying my best to prevent the upstairs from hearing/feeling it.

Make sure to check your ceiling height though, mine was very tight to fit in the basement.

[Robert McNaull]

Jim, I have checked the height several times and will be ok. The end height will dictate my end drum size, I think I am going to be about 2" short of being able to get a 55 gal drum under it so I will have to use something smaller.

Michael, the good news is all the cracking is in the "dead" air space above the air ramp so I don't have to worry about the smoothness.

I bumped the motor over last night to make sure the wiring is good before moving further. Tonight I should be able to get the wall mount made and installed and the impeller installed on the motor along with power ran to the mounting location from the contactor location.

Bob

[Jim Neeley]

After viewing installs on the CV forums I went with a freestanding frame made from Unistrut/Superstrut in order to totally remove the vibration from the walls and place it on my large concrete garage floor slab. It'll attenuate the low frequencies better than any form of attaching it to the walls.

Jim

P.S. I do have the top tied off to the walls with a couple of bungee cords in case of a major earthquake but then, I live in Alaska. <g>

[Robert McNaull]

Getting ready to attach the cyclone body to the blower housing and wondered if I need to seal the connection of the cyclone to the blower housing with caulk? Also if I need to seal the top lid of the cyclone body to the cyclone with caulk? There is no mention of doing this in clearviews instructions or installation video.

[Robert McNaull]

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Current progress

[Gary Howorka]

Mounted mine to the top plate in garage closet. 4 - 1/4 inch lag screws. It holds fine and there isn't any vibration goin anywhere. Lined the closet with some quiet brace ( think that was name ) which has similar consistency to cork to help knock sound down and the noisiest part of the system is when you open blast gates.

[Robert McNaull]

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Up and running!

[Robert McNaull]

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Another pic

[Janis Stipins]

Congratulations on getting yours up and running! How did your cyclone get cracked, by the way?

I'm too late to this party for my input to be helpful at all, but... I isolated my CV1800 as well by building a standalone enclosure in a storage area behind my garage/shop. The enclosure sits on a concrete slab, and no part of it touches the frame of my house. I used basic platform framing with 5/8" sheetrock on both sides and Roxul Safe N Sound for insulation. I haven't finished the roof/lid of the enclosure, so I can't yet give a report on the total noise reduction, but I can already say that there is zero vibration or low frequency noise upstairs, even directly above it. All that comes through is high frequency, like a distant vacuum cleaner, and I'm very optimistic that that will essentially disappear (from upstairs) once I finish the enclosure.

Here's a progress photo from before it was insulated and sheetrocked.

enclosure.jpg

-Janis

[Ole Anderson]

My cyclone is mounted directly to a 10" poured concrete wall with 3/8" redhead expansion bolts using Oneida's standard welded wall mount. So much mass there any vibration just gets soaked up.