Weird Jointer Combo Machine Croaked.

[bruce Humphrey]

Greetings everyone. I am a longtime DYIer and slowly getting into woodworking. I have been lurking for the last couple of years while we completed the garage and addition. Now I finally have some room and am ready to organize the shop. I have a borrowed table saw and band saw plus all the normal stuff (miter saw etc.) My first dedicated WW tool is a jointer/planer/borer combo machine that I got from CL for a couple of hundred bucks a few years ago. It is Italian made. It is labeled "Arbor PFS-300" it is 12". I have started using it (I just got the new garage wired for 220) on my first project, the DJMarks assembly table. While working on the last white oak edge piece. the jointer ran slower and slower and then stopped. I guess the motor died. I couldn't find anything on that company on the internet. Here is my question. What is the difficulty level in fixing up an old tool? What is involved? new motor? bearings? Should I just chunk it? I definitely need a jointer. I am lucky enough to have access to lots of timber. Every time a nice tree falls I take it to the sawmill, so milling lumber will be a big part of my woodworking. I think a new jointer with anywhere near that size would be pretty expensive and I have lots of other tools to buy

thanks for the responses and the great site.
-B

[Rick Lizek]

Of course it's worth fixing up. You could take the motor to a motor repair shop and have them check it out. Based on your description of the machine is a planer, jointer, slot mortiser. Perfect machine for doing loose tenon joints and if you only paid a few hundred bucks for it you got a fantastic deal. Post a picture. Easily worth a few thousand dollars especially if it's a 12 inch machine, even used. Fix it up.

[Mike Cutler]

Bruce

It's alot cheaper to repair/replace that motor than buy a new machine.
Bearings have standard markings on them, and are easy to match to a replacement bearing. Manufacturer's rarely have a bearing made for them and select them based on spec's from what is available. Bearings are easily changed.

You should post a pic of it. Many times machines sold under various manufacturers are very similar to each other because they were made to individual spec's, in the same factories, but branded with different labels. Manufacturers also surrender/sell their patent rights,and another may pick it up and make an identical machine
Put a picture up and it's an odds on bet someone can identify it, or a clone of it.

[Erik Loza]

Bruce, if you can post a photo, I can probably tell you who the actual mfr. is. As Mike pointed out, it is more than likely made by one company and badged for another (if it's really Italian, Griggio comes to mind...).

Also, if you can, post up what the specs on the motors are. From the metal ID plate which is riveted to the aluminum motor housing. In particular, whether they are 60Hz or 50Hz.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[bruce Humphrey]

OK thanks, I will post a pic today,,,

[bruce Humphrey]

IMG_20130913_101627_974.jpgIMG_20130913_101644_000.jpgIMG_20130913_101724_125.jpgIMG_20130913_101753_540.jpgIMG_20130913_101808_036.jpg

here are the pics. Let me know if anyone would like to see specific parts etc.
thanks
b

[Richard Coers]

Bruce, if you can post a photo, I can probably tell you who the actual mfr. is. As Mike pointed out, it is more than likely made by one company and badged for another (if it's really Italian, Griggio comes to mind...).

Also, if you can, post up what the specs on the motors are. From the metal ID plate which is riveted to the aluminum motor housing. In particular, whether they are 60Hz or 50Hz.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Could be a Lurem Erik, but maybe those are older than you!

[peter gagliardi]

It is belt drive it appears, so unbolt, and fish it out of there, bring to a motor repair shop. They can test, and if bad, a new one should only be another few hundred $.
This is a very easy fix!
If it was direct drive, the conversation might be different, depending on how good your repair shop was.

[bruce Humphrey]

60hz motor in case you can't read it.

[HANK METZ]

“I guess the motor died”.

Guessing can be expensive, so isolate and identify the real problem first. Did the motor trip a breaker or go into thermal cutout? If not, disconnect the belt drive and do a restart and see if she rolls. If yes, rotate the head’s drive assembly by hand to determine if anything downstream from the motor is causing the problem. More to follow based on what you find.

[Erik Loza]

Could be a Lurem Erik, but maybe those are older than you!

Hahaha, no kidding. Wasn't Lurem French, though? I don't remember. Or maybe I'm thinking of Kity?

Bruce, the good news is that it appears to be a 60Hz motor (many times, it was 50Hz, which would be unfortunate). Anyhow, 3hp ought be adequate for what you are trying to do. Was it the jointer which shut down on you or were you thickness planing?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Rod Sheridan]

The first place I would start after seeing the photographs is cleaning all those chips out of the machine, and then checking the belt.

Are you using a dust extractor on that machine?

If not you're going to have problems running it...........Rod.

[bruce Humphrey]

Hahaha, no kidding. Wasn't Lurem French, though? I don't remember. Or maybe I'm thinking of Kity?

Bruce, the good news is that it appears to be a 60Hz motor (many times, it was 50Hz, which would be unfortunate). Anyhow, 3hp ought be adequate for what you are trying to do. Was it the jointer which shut down on you or were you thickness planing?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

I was Jointing

Jointer shut down. seemed to be running fine and it slowed to a stop and the switch turned off on it's own. The motor felt a little hot but not smoking or anything. I waited and then tried to turn it on again. it clicked back off immediately.

[bruce Humphrey]

“I guess the motor died”.

Guessing can be expensive, so isolate and identify the real problem first. Did the motor trip a breaker or go into thermal cutout? If not, disconnect the belt drive and do a restart and see if she rolls. If yes, rotate the head’s drive assembly by hand to determine if anything downstream from the motor is causing the problem. More to follow based on what you find.

thanks for the direction, I will perform these tasks this evening.

[bruce Humphrey]

The first place I would start after seeing the photographs is cleaning all those chips out of the machine, and then checking the belt.

Are you using a dust extractor on that machine?

If not you're going to have problems running it...........Rod.

No dust collection, I am not sure it has any ports etc for that.