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Thread: Fluteless gouges

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chicago Heights, Il.
    Posts
    2,136
    Reed, I always learn something from your videos and comments here on the Creek. I have the 5/8" fluteless gouge. There is a learning curve, but as you have shown will cut very cleanly. Rubbing the bevel and keeping it on the lower cutting edge are essential when using it as a gouge. Thanks again for all the time you spend making and producing these informative videos.
    Member Illiana Woodturners

  2. #17
    Reed,

    I just got a 1/2" fluteless gouge from Doug, mostly for finishing the inside of bowls. I couldn't tell from your video, do you put a spindle gouge or bowl gouge type/length handle on yours? Thanks for the video by the way.

    Thanks
    Ben
    I've got lots of practice at making firewood!

  3. #18
    Hmm, never thought of a difference between handles. I prefer a bigger diameter handle, and longer. So, for a 1/2 inch gouge, 1 1/4 inch diameter and 12 to 16 inch length. Not sure that it makes any difference really, mostly what feels good in your hands. It doesn't need to be big as this is a finish cut tool, and not a roughing tool. I even have one where I made it from some Baltic Birch type marine grade plywood. More than enough to handle daily use.

    robo hippy

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Erie, Pa.
    Posts
    147
    I have to say after watching your video Reed I have been using my 5/8" fluteless gouge on every think I turn now. Before the video I was wondering why I ever bought it. Thanks so much.
    Paul Singer
    Jet 1642EVS 2hp

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    McDonough, GA (near Atlanta)
    Posts
    392
    Great video and great instructional technique. Thanks.

  6. #21
    Thanks Reed
    I've got lots of practice at making firewood!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Negaunee Michigan in the Upper Peninsula
    Posts
    607
    I love what works and have used scrapers quite a bit. This tool looks like a good one to try next. Thanks for the very instructive video.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    982
    Something else I can't live without. Thanks, Reed.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Detroit, MI
    Posts
    1,661
    I ordered a couple last night. Reed should get a commission for this. But thanks for the video Reed. It was very informative. Might be just the tool I was looking for.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Lincoln, NE
    Posts
    1,213
    I have had one of these for about a year. Use it a lot and might even be using more now. Thanks for the video

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Millsboro, DE
    Posts
    249
    Reed,
    I looked at your video (several times) after seeing a reference to it in an earlier post. Then bought the tool. I love it! The learning curve is short, and the results are great. Super fine curlies and a big help on end grain. I've gone back to the video several times and learn a refinement in my technique every time. Thanks for taking the time to do this and for the "discovery"! Cheers

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    Looks a lot like the Oland tool in another incarnation, and used in similar way, not much new under the sun it seems

    Oh just go to around-the-woods.-com. there is lots to learn and nothing to buy
    Have fun and take care

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Lancaster PA USA
    Posts
    254
    Reed, which size do you use more , the 1/2" or 5/8" ?
    I know the voices in my head aren't real but boy do they come up with some good ideas !
    People discuss my art and pretend to understand as if it were necessary to understand, when it's simply necessary to love. - Claude Monet

  14. #29
    Bryan,
    For finish cuts on bowls, I use the 5/8 most of the time. I do prefer bigger and heavier tools as they fit my big paws better. If I am doing spindle work, and detail type stuff, most of the time it is the smaller tools, but I do switch back and forth.

    Leo, I have seen clips of the Oland tool in use. I think of it more like a big hollowing cutter (I don't think they are over 3/8 inch, but not sure) in a bar. The nose is more U shaped and they are used as a scraper. The tool that Doug is selling is more of a ) nose profile, and intended for shear cutting. They do not make a good scraper. Not sure about the bevel angles on the Oland tool.

    robo hippy

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    Quote Originally Posted by Reed Gray View Post
    Bryan,

    Leo, I have seen clips of the Oland tool in use. I think of it more like a big hollowing cutter (I don't think they are over 3/8 inch, but not sure) in a bar. The nose is more U shaped and they are used as a scraper. The tool that Doug is selling is more of a ) nose profile, and intended for shear cutting. They do not make a good scraper. Not sure about the bevel angles on the Oland tool.

    robo hippy
    Reed the tool is riding the bevel and held on an angle to sheer cut, size isn't important, nose shape you can grind any which way, as suits, same with the bevel angle, and a heck of a lot cheaper I'm sure.
    But like I said another reincarnation of a wood cutting tool that has been around for a long time, I don't even know if Oland was the originator of that type of tool.
    Maybe it was a scraper to start of with, like you use and then found ways to make it cut rather than scrape, really the thing you have been doing for as long as I have known you, must been 20 years by now, from before when we were on the old forum with George Tokarev AKA Micky Mouse or something like that nowadays
    Have fun and take care

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