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Thread: Going shorter on TS fence rails

  1. #31
    I too, ran out of space and had to downsize my PM2000. I went to the 30" rails and cut down my extension, keeping the router lift in it. I kept the 50" rails just in case. Processing my sheet goods always begins with my Festool rails, then from there, I'll use the table saw as needed. Festool rails and table really has changed the way I break down sheets, but I still use the table saw too. I don't think I could work in my small shop without both...or at least it wouldn't be as much fun.

  2. #32
    What if I want to cut a leg 36 inches long. I would take my unifence and slide it over and then get out my mitre gauge and cut repeatable accurate legs safely and easily. What if I want to cut a piece of sheet goods 48" long? Sure I could drag out some sort of circular saw, something to set it on, clear off enough space to set all of this stuff since the premise is that we are operating in a small shop with no space, somehow try and mark multiple pieces accurately and then set up what ever straight edge I'm using accurately with the line and then cut the sheet good. Conversely I can just set my fence that is the most accurate thing in my shop and easily cut the sheet good repeatable and accurately and safer then crawling around on my floor with a circular saw trying to follow a straight edge. I read a lot of people trying to claim cutting sheet goods on a table saw is somehow unsafe or no good and the only conclusion I can come to is they read that somewhere and have never actually tried it. I have cut hundreds of sheet goods any where from 1/4 to 3/4 and would never consider using anything else to do so. Also track saw guy will tell you how accurately they can measure, then mark,then cut pieces but there is a reason every accurate tool in the world uses stops. 20 inches by 27 inches in a shop does make a small difference but when it is directly located next to your table saw it's not as valuable as it could be. I have a 15 by 24 shop and have a jointer, a planer, a bandsaw, a 12" scms, another radial arm saw I don't use, another belsaw jointer planer I don't use, a table saw with a 52" side table with router built in and a 4x6 out feed table, another portable table for another dealt table saw, a 10 foot by 30 inch bench, a drill press and a mortise machine. I wouldn't consider that an airplane hanger considering it's basically a one car garage and have never once thought, man I wish I had that 20 inches next to my table saw, just my view from using both a 52 and a 32 fence.
    Last edited by keith micinski; 10-08-2013 at 9:30 PM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,572
    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    I still wonder what you do with the 20 inches next to your table saw even if 25-30 inches for your rails works for you.
    I can't speak for others but I put a 12" jointer/Planer there . Everything is on wheels. I have 27" right of the blade and that has worked out well, most of my panel work is 24" or less. Any enthusiasm I'd felt for humping 4 X 8 sheets by myself has long since departed. Saw guides or track saws and a table a few inches lower than a pickup bed fit my routine just fine.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    989
    I'm happy with the 36" rails on my saw.
    This is a good size for my compact shop (1/2 of 2-car garage).
    I have my bandsdaw tucked in to the extension table area.
    This gives me ~20" of rip capacity unless I roll the saw out.

    As others mentioned, any large sheet goods get cut with track saw on the ground.

    Matt

  5. #35
    My tablesaw isn't against a wall, its central in my shop. So if I shortened the rails I would gain a walkway that I don't have to squeeze through and possibly more storage space.

  6. #36
    Neat solution, but alas I am not handy with a welder (nor do I own one). I'm leaning to just cutting the tubes off for now.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,710
    There is no welding required if you buy replacement material. It is all common sizes and nothing special. Drill a few holes and bolt it on.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Orland Hills, IL (near Chicago)
    Posts
    1,161
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    IMO, there is no Good reason to ever need your rip fence set at 52 inches. Show me someone using their fence this far out and I'll explain what they're doing wrong. And all the guys discounting how much difference 20" can make must all own airplane hangars.
    I certainly wouldn't go that far by saying that. I use my Festool TS-75 all the time. I've found myself breaking down a 4'x8' sheet and then to my Steel City 10" TS to rip at 48" several times.

    Ultimately, as others have said each shop and WWer is different and has their own needs. I now finally have the space to justify the 52" rails. Prior to that I had my 52" Bies rails in my 2 car garage. It was cramped and tight. My kids smashed their heads on it, I bumped my groin into it, but I personally would never cut my rails. Heck, now I have 2 10" TS' with 52" rails. I'm loving every minute of it.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

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