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Thread: New hobbyist shop tools help

  1. #1

    Question New hobbyist shop tools help

    Hi all. I'm a woodworking noob, and this is my first post. Of course, I need to probe the mind of the forum for help.


    I have made a number of basic projects in the past using my circular saw, and various general purpose tools. I own a festool ct26 and orbit sander used for some refinishing work I have done. I like making things, and want to up my skills.


    I need help choosing tools. Here is some context around what I will be doing:


    Future Projects
    Large built in shelves
    Kitchen cabinet refacing/building
    Wainscoting
    Large table
    LED light fixtures
    Bird house
    Mechanical novelties


    Potential Space
    I have room in the basement, and room in an enclosed (but unfinished) third garage bay (12x20). It is very cold here in the winter.


    Dust collection (and safety) is very important to me - especially if I choose to work in the basement.


    The main question I am struggling with is to get a track saw OR a table saw or both?
    If I do get a table saw do I get a hybrid or spend more money to get a larger saw?
    I know I need a bandsaw as I expect to cut many curves. Resaw on occasion. Was looking at the laguna 14|12 but maybe I would be okay with a cheaper 14".
    Is there any value in sticking with a single brand for all tools e.g. general is very easy to find and service in my area.
    Do I need more specialized machines like jointer/planer?


    I think if the Festool CMS-ts module was available in NA it might make my decision easier.


    Any advise is much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    Hi Mathias, welcome to the forum.

    In my opinion it's hard to have a shop without a tablesaw of some sort.

    I have a small shop so I have two combination machines, a saw/shaper and a jointer/planer.

    I also have a bandsaw.

    General is a problem as they've ceased fabrication, I had a shop full of General machines, being Canadian. If you want to buy used General machines that may be a good way to go, however I gave up on my NA type machines and went Euro combination types, much more capable, higher capacity in a smaller footprint.

    A jointer and planer are a necessity in my opinion for furniture making.

    Regards, Rod.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Mathias,

    Welcome to SMC......

    Everybody has different needs in a woodworking shop. I have always built my shops around a table saw. Looking at your list of future projects, I would want a table saw.
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
    I Support the Second Amendment of the US Constitution

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    I agree with Rod on the table saw comments. For many applications, a track saw can be an adequate alternative (I have both). For certain cuts, a track saw is an extremely inefficient and time consuming way to do something that only takes seconds to set up and execute on a table saw. For other applications, you need a really big table saw infeed/outfeed/sidefeed setup to do cuts that are quick and easy to set up and do with a track saw. If you can afford it, get both.

    You didn't mention your budget, but if it is limited, do not shy away from buying a quality hybrid or even a contractor style table saw. Properly adjusted and with the right blade, these saws will cut just as accurately as larger and more powerful saws. If you have the money, a good cabinet saw will be more enjoyable to use.

    If you are going to build more complex cabinets and furniture, I would not classify either a jointer or a planer as a specialized machine. You may be able to do without them for a while by purchasing S4S lumber and applying some of the well documented work arounds. Eventually, you are going to want to be able to quickly and efficiently flatten and straighten your lumber and mill the thickness to exactly what you want. Pre-milled lumber is often not flat or straight and the thickness is not inaccurate. Once again, if your budget is limited, you can do quality work with a low cost "lunchbox" style planer. Just be aware that they are slower than heavy iron planeers and they are screaming loud. If you can afford it, go big. I have a 6 inch jointer and it satisfies most of my needs. However, I am on the lookout for an 8 inch replacement as I run into its limitations fairly often.
    Last edited by Art Mann; 10-17-2013 at 12:46 PM.

  5. #5
    I like the idea of a table saw. I had a Ridgid TS3660 saw that served me very well for a few years. I recently upgraded to a larger saw (un-named but its initials are SS) and couldn't be happier. I have a bandsaw that I'm trying to use more often. I had a 6" jointer but recently got rid of it. It took up too much room and there's not much (nothing?) I can't do with a hand plane and/or the tablesaw. With a thickness planer you can mill your own wood instead of buying the more expensive dimensional lumber. I still use my routers frequently but the circular saw is used rarely. I don't think I could work without the Random Orbital Sanders although I'm trying more with the hand planes. Dust collection - absolutely.

    Best advice I could give is get the tools you need for a project you're going to do. I don't personally think that sticking with the same brand(s) is necessary. There are lots of good manufacturers and you can surely find a good tool in you price range.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
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    Some will disagree, but I have a friend who has made some really nice stuff with a Shopsmith. It is a great tool for a beginner, and you can pick a good one up for $500, including a band saw, and belt sander. Try CL.

    Rick Potter

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    I'm going to suggest a smaller approach to this build list.

    If you're not building cabinets, there's little that must be made from plywood.
    I prefer to work by hand, but that's time-intensive.

    A solid router table with a few choice profiling bits will allow you to make most of
    the joints, and raise panels for refacing cabinets. It's also small enough that you can
    roll it, or store it, out of the way.

    I suggest you buy lumber at or near the final thickness (dimensioned S2S or S4S) from your local supplier.
    The amount of material you're likely to use doesn't justify investing in a jointer or planer of lasting quality.

    Those tools are also loud, generate tremendous dust and present real risks to untrained operators.
    They're unforgiving of a misplaced finger, or captured clothing.

    I would investigate a good quality 14" bandsaw with new blades before any other shop tool.


    Rather than a purchase list of gear, I would suggest your first expenditure should be in a basic shop class.
    You may well remember some of the things from earlier instruction, but a refresher will save you real time.

    http://www.rosewoodstudio.com/?gclid...Fe1QOgodAwgAvQ

  8. #8
    Thanks for all the replies. Having a forum to bounce thoughts around really helps. Thanks again.

    So I'm going to go with the Sawstop 1.75hp cabinet saw, and the Laguna 14|12. Though I'm thinking of going to 240V on the bandsaw. I'm going to hold off on the track saw, and will use hand planes for now for jointing/plaining if needed.

    Planing to insulate the garage and work there. Hopefully add drywall soon and tape/sand in the spring.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Marquette MI
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    You will be delighted by the SawStop!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    First, welcome to SMC. Looks like you're planning for the future. The SS wasn't around when I made my decision, but if it had been, it would have been hard not to go that route just for the safety factor. Eventually, some sort of jointing/plaining will tug on you as the hand planes are fun and rewarding, but there are times when they will hold you back from producing something at a rate you might wish to accomplish. Lastly, but most importantly, when you get that SS, take some sort of class, or get a DVD on using table saws and watch it because they can be dangerous even deadly for a "Woodworking NOOB".

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