Tabletop with Thickened edges - another breadboard detail condundrum

[Peter Stahley]

I've got a table build underway, with ~3/4" hickory as the main material for the top, but thicker 1-1/2" mahogany on the edges... As a result, I'm having a conundrum trying to decide how to do my breadboard end.

I've come up with what I think is a clever solution that makes it work well but I'm not sure. Looking for feedback on Option 1, 2, or 3 from this sketch.

1. Option 1: Basically #1 is to do the groove at a normal depth (1/3 of the hickory, so it is at 1/4", then 1/4" grooves and tenons, then 1/4" more table). This places the groove "off-center" on the mahogany, but centers it for the thinner hickory.
2. Option 2: Instead of a full tongue, I cut a rabbett to 3/8" of the hickory, and that goes in the groove, plus longer tenon sections. I can even make the mahogany have a supportive lip underneath the rabbet in this case.
3. Option 3: Do either of the above, but hide the groove by stopping it short... although I kind of want to show off the groove so I don't love this idea (my first "real" project, so I want to show off all the extra work I've done, not hide it!!!)
4. Other Options I missed?

I am doing everything by hand so one issue is that my combination plane only has 3/8" or 1/4" cutter for the groove, so those are the dimensions I have to work with there (plus it matches my chisels for the mortise).

My big worry with #1 is the fairly thin tongue/tenons getting snapped off. #2 is goofier, and I've never seen anything like it, but gives some more meat to the construction.

Whats everybodies two cents?

Sketch below:breadboard section sketches.jpg

[Brian Triplett]

a quick search on google has most the breadboards showing off their grooves and to me it looks pretty good. you did do that extra work, why not show it off. Another option would be to run the ends by the side members creating a more traditional breadboard end. Then you could have the 3/8" rabbet until you get to the 1 1/2" thick sides in which it would turn into a groove. Remember the wood is going to move and expand so the joints at your 1 1/2" ends might open up.

[glenn bradley]

I would keep the tongue even and offset the breadboard. I have done the stopped grooves:

Kit-Hut-(73).jpg

And the "for show" grooves:

pre-finish-elevations.jpg

Either is fine by me, let your design and style dictate your decision.

[Shawn Pixley]

I don't typically expose the joinery in breadboard ends. Of the two you show, I prefer Option #2. Though I don't care for the non-centered "groove."

That said, what I would do is thicken the ends of the hickory to match the thickness of the Mahogany. That way you'll get both stronger material / joinery. Additionally you can center the groove on the mahogany. Your choice.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Option 3: Do either of the above, but hide the groove by stopping it short... although I kind of want to show off the groove so I don't love this idea (my first "real" project, so I want to show off all the extra work I've done, not hide it!!!)

I think you want the breadboard to be the same thickness as the apparent thickness of the table top - which is the mahogany.

Stopped or "blind" mortise and tenon is the correct way to go, IMO. Leave the tenon short so it can expand into the mortise. The irony of course: you will do even more work, and it will not be visible. But - to whom do you want it visible? Certainly not to you, so then - to others.

People that know their stuff will look at it and know what you did. People that don't know their stuff will look at it and ask "how did you do that?" and you get to explain. Either way - win-win.


On the basic technique - I would choose the lower right sketch, labelled "hidden" in red ink. Slotted holes in the breadboard, with brass screws & washers for expansion/contraction. This will make a very sturdy structure. If it is a dining table - the breadboard ends hold up forearms and elbows, and stuffed-full guests as they lever themselves out of their chairs after dinner.

[Peter Stahley]

I kept going back and forth, even considering leaving the breadboard ends off due to time constraints with getting this thing done. Anyway, I bit the bullet and decided to jump in.

I decided to go with stopped mortise, 3/8" half shoulder tenon (so basically option #2, except hidden). Made the first one today...

My big concern was cutting in the shoulder, but with the help of patience and a deep breath I decided to cut it with a circular saw and clamped straightedge. I've cut almost everything else by hand but was too freaked out about keeping that line dead straight over 40". Came out great. Took my time on layout and said "Here goes nothing." Chopped in 5 mortises, with the largest one dead center that will get the glue. Used the #46 and plowed a groove in the breadboard after doing mortises.

Got it almost on perfectly - except its not quite closing yet and I had to shut down for the evening before I could clean up the fit. Any tips on how to tell just which/what surface is keeping the joint from closing?image_zps71527b66.jpg