Can you dye-sub PVC sheet?

[Keith Outten]

I can't find any information about whether or not you can dye-sublimate PVC sheet. Does anyone know if this is possible and if so can you share temp and time information?

[Scott Shepherd]

I don't think it works Keith. Seems like I tried it for something a couple of years ago. The problem was with heating it. When you heat PVC, it moves like crazy and never seems to return to it's original state. Seems like it shrunk like crazy, along with buckling and bowing. But that's all from memory of a one time trial years ago. If you could get it to work, it would have to be at the lowest end of the temperature range for sure.

[AL Ursich]

I orderd some PVC sample sheets from Granger and they all melted before proper transfer.

I have done some of the FRP type from the Home Center that is the base material for the Unisub FRP but with a bright poly coating. The Home Center Stuff came out very dull... not worth it...

Unisub and Johnson Plastics sell a Credit Card thick Poly sheet that does Sublimate but I did not find the right settings as it warped and did not give me the results I wanted. JFLEX1


Don't forget about the Sublimatable Phenolic in .050 UN5550 & UN5551

[Keith Outten]

Thanks Guys,

I was afraid that the temperature would be an issue but I was hoping that it would work because PVC would be a very inexpensive alternative that can also be CNC machined. There seems to be plenty of really great products available these days for sublimation. I did try the FRP material a couple years ago but wasn't impressed. The aluminum DyeTrans works pretty good and the Chromaluxe stuff looks promising for pictures. I have three 8 by 10 samples of the Chromaluxe to try out.

I have used the DyeTrans aluminum for directory sliders in the past, it is perfect for that job. The thin plastic stick on material, can't remember the name now didn't work very well for me, it might have been the poly sheet that Al mentioned.

Al I will look into the Phenolic material, thats new to me.

Is there a magnetic sheet material that can be dye-sublimated?

[AL Ursich]

The Stick on Print Poly is called Mates and come in White, Clear, Gold, Prism, Silver and 2 inch rounds. XPRES Mylar is Pressure Sensitive in .001 thick. Then we have Sublidecal in .001 White.

I could not find the Magnetic Sheet in the Johnson Plastic Catalog... I have use it in the past but it is a weak Frig magnet and not for Cars as it will blow off... In my opinion it is a no win.... the heat reduces the power of the magnet "In MY opinion"... and the top coat shrinks... I have some I did in 2007 and they are stuck to a cabinet and have migrated to the bottom of the door....

I bought some heavy duty magnet sheet with double stick tape for a Magnetic Accountability Board Sublimating the White Steel but attached the magnet to FRP Tags so no heat problems.

AL

[Keith Outten]

Al,

I remember now, the thin poly substrate was Mates as you suggested. I seem to remember that Mates worked fine if the pieces were small and large jobs were not really recommended by Conde.

I have a customer who wants some magnet signs for some steel doors. I have a large roll of the magnet sheet with a white cap, I can probably dye-sublimate either aluminum or the phenolic and adhere it to the magnet using StickyBack if I can find a source.

Thanks

[Wes Mitchell]

If you need a plastic to sublimate that's thinner than the FRP and Phenolic, this is another option. It's .030 with a matte finish on one side and gloss on the other, comes in sheets up to 24" x 36". Cuts great with rotary engravers.

http://www.johnsonplastics.biz/detail/M37/1/1/JFLEX3

[AL Ursich]

On the Signs 101 Forum they have some great tips about magnetic signs. Mostly due to liability as they don't play nice with Car finish and most makers have the directions for cleaning before and a schedule of remove and clean behind the sign as part of the invoice. And not to pull the corners...

The magnetic job might be best to sub out to a printer.

That .030 stuff is what I call the Credit Card material.

AL

[Gary Hair]

You can sublimate pvc and it holds the color really well. Similar to Corian, you need to use lower temps and longer dwell times than with most substrates. I got rid of my sublimation equipment when I bought my DCS printer so I can't tell you the settings, but I think they were closer to 300* than 400. How about a DCS printer instead? I have printed on pvc and it sticks better than anything else I've printed on. It's much faster than dye sub, tons easier, and you get a new piece of equipment - doesn't get any better than that!