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Thread: Table overhang advice...

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Table overhang advice...

    Hey guys,

    Third time trying to post this... I am building a pedestal style table. The table top will measure 54"x36". The base, as it stands now is, 36"x18". This allows for 9" overhang. This distance seems quite small. The table will be 36" tall which puts it in the 'counter height' category. According to my research counter height tables typically have a 15" overhang. I realize that simply is not possible with these top dimensions. However, I would like to increase the overhang by whatever amount possible.

    This table will only have chairs pulled up along the length. Not along the width.

    I cannot imagine this base being 12" wide to allow for 12" of overhang.

    I think 36"x15" for the base may be acceptable. 10-1/2" overhang is not much better, but it's something.

    Any thoughts guys?
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    For a table top that size, I'd make the base a trestle base. The trestles would be kinda inverted-T shape, with the crossbar of the T running the 36" direction of the top. The nice thing about this is that people can sit anywhere along the 54" side without whacking their knees. The crossbar can be any length you feel comfortable with. The worst that can happen is that a sitter puts a foot on top of the crossbar. (Oh, yeah, a trestle base usually has a stretcher running trestle-to-trestle to help counter racking forces. It is 18" from the long edge of the table, so it too is unlikely to whack any knees.

  3. #3
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    While that would solve this problem it would actually alter the functionality of the table. My client essentially wants a kitchen island that can double as a table. There will be enclosed storage beneath with a door.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Make a mock-up with 1X2's and cardboard. Show it to the client and see if this is really what they want.
    Wood'N'Scout

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Dunn View Post
    .. My client essentially wants a kitchen island that can double as a table. ..
    That's a tough one. If you put storage space under the table, the front of it really should be near the table edge, so you're not reaching underneath the table top to get at stuff in the storage. But if you put the front of the storage area near the table edge, there's no place for sitters' knees. It seems that you have to make a piece that is bad at one function or the other.

    I have a spot in my kitchen where I park guests while I'm cooking. The counter is 36" tall, and it overhangs 9". There are 27"-tall stools. You can sit on a stool to chat, but if you were trying to eat, your knees would be running into the cabinetry below. In my situation, the cabinet is an end -- that is, with no doors or drawers. If there were doors or drawers there, they'd be a pain to get to.

  6. #6
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    I would, but she's 160 miles away from me.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    My kitchen island/counter seating is similar to the project you describe…top is 72" x 36" and has a base of 48" x 24"…leaving a 12" overhang. The overhang is along one length and on the ends…only a counter-top overhang on the cabinet side. On knee room…its a little tight, wish I had the additional 3". So, will your client. Stools that are less deep (not necessarily a full seat) do help a bit. The issue is the weight and counterbalance of the cantilevered top. Mine is screwed to the floor…base is like any other base cabinet. So, no worries about tipping with leaning elbows on the overhang. If she wants it to be on wheels or moveable like any other table…that tradeoff might be accomplished with a very heavy base (8/4 hard maple frame and panel instead of plywood cabinet case construction). At least it is a design discussion to have with the client…what the are trade-offs she wants to make. Good luck!

  8. #8
    160 miles? What are you going to LTL the table? ;-)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    160 miles? What are you going to LTL the table? ;-)
    Were going to meet 1/2 way.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  10. #10
    sounds like maybe it should be built like an island, not a table. attach it to the floor and you can easily have the overhang you want..
    or, put the legs at the corners - you don't get usable space end to end, but it could work.
    Melad StudioWorks
    North Brookfield, MA

  11. #11
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    I'll upload my drawing tomorrow. She wants storage beneath so I can't put the legs at the corners. Also, she wants to be able to pull chairs up to both sides, but not the ends.

    FWIW, she did just say I can increase the width to 40". Not much, bit it's something. Limited space she says.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  12. #12
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    Not that this is a design suggestion (more business strategy). AND i don't know that you haven't already tried to persuade her to understand the limits of physics here.

    Maybe just pointing out…? I always try to accommodate my clients every wish, but sometimes you have to frame these compromises for the client. I can make it with all the storage and leg room you have requested but it won't be stable…if you lean hard on it..it might tip over on you and we can't have that. Pinch some leg loom and put legs at the corners? Screw it to the floor? What would you like to compromise instead of safety?

    I have found that clients often respond positively when you play your role as designer/builder with a strong conviction of expertise…you are their advocate. Their lawyer, accountant or doctor would not let them do something stupid neither should you.

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