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Thread: Glueing Teak

  1. #1

    Glueing Teak

    What is a good glue for glueing teak ? The Teak is off a old sail boat that wasn't kept up. The old glue joints let go, and the Teak seems to be dry ( On oil in it).
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Only thing I have ever seen used was West Systems epoxy. The mating surfaces were always wiped down with lacquer thinner just before glue up. Just for insurance sake I would still use an epoxy on it, dry or not.

  3. #3
    Lacquer thinner is probably better than not cleaning with anything ,but I've been told LT actually has oil in it. I would use acetone or MEK to wipe the wood. Epoxy is good but I think gorrila ,type two or type three would also work . Don't know which is "best".

  4. #4
    P.S. If it's going back on boat ,as opposed to being repurposed, definately epoxy.

  5. #5
    It's is going back on the boat.
    I told the guy that he needs to keep the Teak oiled. Right?

  6. #6
    Larry, just noticed no one has posted about the oil question. Marine finishes are a special niche, check with a boat place.

  7. #7
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    Epoxy is the best choice. The value of wiping teak down is a topic of controversy. I typically just sand to make certain that it is clean and that I am gluing to a fresh surface or glue up after machining. Teak can be varnished or oiled or left bare. Teak decks last a long time and are typically not finished - often cleaned with a good scrubbing using sea water. It all depends on the look you wish to achieve and the amount of work you want to invest. The silvery gray of weathered teak can be very nice but so can a grain filled well varnished teak look really beautiful.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  8. #8
    Sam,I hadn't heard the controversy thing before. I worked for a highly skilled German pattern maker for one year a long time ago. He was making a hatch for his sail boat out of teak and had to glue it up . It fell apart right after he removed it from the clamps. I told him I had read that wiping it with acetone or MEK helped ,he used MEK and the joint held. To me this this inadvertant experiment is useful here because the MEK was the only variable. P.S : I am not a pattern maker and learned that in just one year!

  9. #9
    The thought is that cleaning does little but smear around the oil. I tend to be in that camp, at least as far as rosewoods are concerned, and I just glue freshly planed surfaces. That said, I always recommend following the manufacturers directions, and West has specific instructions for Teak:

    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/surface-preparation/

    And West is pretty much all I would use to glue teak.

  10. #10
    Well, solvents do vary in strength and MEK is the strongest widely available . I just don't understand how it could possibly be a negative. I've noticed over the years that the go to technical guys at the glue companies stress that any gluing of any kind of wood should be done as soon as possible after surface dressing as oxidation of oils ,pitch ,etc have a strong negative effect on joint strength. They point out the glue actually penetrates into the wood very little with any species.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    Sam,I hadn't heard the controversy thing before. I worked for a highly skilled German pattern maker for one year a long time ago. He was making a hatch for his sail boat out of teak and had to glue it up . It fell apart right after he removed it from the clamps. I told him I had read that wiping it with acetone or MEK helped ,he used MEK and the joint held. To me this this inadvertant experiment is useful here because the MEK was the only variable. P.S : I am not a pattern maker and learned that in just one year!

    One theory is that using a solvent may contaminate the epoxy as you glue the joint. I can find quite a few references that argue for each technique.
    Having said that I agree that it is best to follow the adhesive manufacture's directions - why do any less? I have used acetone as a prewipe to an epoxy/teak connection, also I have just milled the teak, spread the epoxy and clamped the assembly together. I think that milling and soon thereafter doing the glue up is an important factor. Both techniques have worked well - no failures ever. Lots of variables may have supported that success rate and so I go back to suggesting that it is best to follow the manufacturer's recommendation for their specific epoxy.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  12. #12
    Sam, I don't see any theory involved in this and don't agree with the mfg. advice posted earlier . Lacquer thinner should not be used ,as I posted earlier it has wax and oil in it. When a member here reccommends lacquer thinner it is an honest attempt to help . When a glue mfg reccommends it ....it is a glaring mistake. Acetone and MEK are appropriate and evaporate quickly and should be allowed to do so. Some woods have oil or wax in them that can impede a good glue bond,and since there is a way to greatly mitigate that risk I think it wise to do so.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    Sam, I don't see any theory involved in this and don't agree with the mfg. advice posted earlier . Lacquer thinner should not be used ,as I posted earlier it has wax and oil in it. When a member here reccommends lacquer thinner it is an honest attempt to help . When a glue mfg reccommends it ....it is a glaring mistake. Acetone and MEK are appropriate and evaporate quickly and should be allowed to do so. Some woods have oil or wax in them that can impede a good glue bond,and since there is a way to greatly mitigate that risk I think it wise to do so.
    What's the problem with lacquer thinner? It's mostly Acetone, MEK, Toulene, etc...powerful solvents. West has been doing this for many decades, and they're the most well respected name in marine adhesives. I think they know what they're talking about.

  14. #14
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    … in this case West recommends acetone as the prewipe. See John's link in post # 9 above.
    Last edited by Sam Murdoch; 11-23-2013 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Clarity
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  15. #15
    I just went and read that again. It says "lacquer thinner, acetone, or other appropriate solvent". They reccommend one inappropriate solvent and don't mention MEK. I find that sloppy. No wonder there is debate and theory!

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