jointing and smoothing

[bridger berdel]

doing a job involving a bunch of panels and casework in walnut. I used a jointer fence on a #6 and a #7. I also used a #4-1/2 as a smoother. for some areas I used a #2 and a #4, but that #4-1/2 really plowed through. it made doing the smoothing a real pleasure.

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[Jim Koepke]

I tend to favor my #4-1/2 also.

It is a nice size for many things.

Is yours a type 16 (1936-1941)?

Mine is a type 6. Funny that when it was first picked up the blade was sticking out the bottom. Often the case in antiques stores and such. It had me puzzled for a moment why the blade wouldn't retract. Then it hit me the depth adjuster was a right hand thread. It was only $30 so it came home with me. As we drove down the coast we stopped at other antique shops and one had a type 6 #4. That one came home with me also. Every once in awhile if different planes are being used the adjustment shifting can be confusing.

jtk

[Neil Schoepp]

Ok so here is where I show just how much I don't know. First, I love the idea of the jointer fence. My first question was how did you do that, attach it to the plane that is. The third photo answered that showing a cleat. Neat idea there. I don't like assuming anything so I'm just gonna ask. Is the whole concept of using the fence so that you ensure the face frame is flush to the top? Also why the fence? I mean I get why you use a fence when doing a dado but if the face frame is off a hair isn't that the job of the plane even without the fence.

[bridger berdel]

the fence holds the plane square. I wasn't after flush, I was after straight and square. there will be an oddball crown molding stacked straight on top of the face frame and I need a good edge to work from.

I used a slightly crowned iron in the plane (a #6 for weight) so that when it was adjusted to make a square cut the outboard corner was lifted off of the workpiece.

the mechanism holding the fence to the plane involves 2 dogs, held by screws. one of these days I'll make some knobs for it. for now it's operated with a screwdriver. maybe I'll even give it a coat of shellac or something.

Ok so here is where I show just how much I don't know. First, I love the idea of the jointer fence. My first question was how did you do that, attach it to the plane that is. The third photo answered that showing a cleat. Neat idea there. I don't like assuming anything so I'm just gonna ask. Is the whole concept of using the fence so that you ensure the face frame is flush to the top? Also why the fence? I mean I get why you use a fence when doing a dado but if the face frame is off a hair isn't that the job of the plane even without the fence.

[Tom Bussey]

Nice tip.

Tom

[Neil Schoepp]

the fence holds the plane square. I wasn't after flush, I was after straight and square. there will be an oddball crown molding stacked straight on top of the face frame and I need a good edge to work from.
.

Well I accomplished my goal of learning something new each day. Never thought about mounting something up top. I really like the fence. I'll be stealing that idea one day. Thanks for the help.

[Michael Ray Smith]

"I also used a #4-1/2 as a smoother. for some areas I used a #2 and a #4, but that #4-1/2 really plowed through. it made doing the smoothing a real pleasure."

I agree with you about the 4 1/2. I recently bought a Millers Falls No. 10 (equiv to Stanley 4 1/2), and it very quickly became my standard smoother. Now I do all my smoothing with the Millers Falls No. 10 and a Stanley No. 2 -- with a LV low-angle BU block plane (with the add-on tote and knob and multiple blades -- well, basically all the extra gizmos Rob sells for them) filling in sometimes. I never find myself reaching for No. 3 or No. 4 sized planes anymore.